3.4L supercharger

You do every trick you can,but you still can't drive with a heavy foot like you can naturally aspirated.
mods I think that most helped me :
good fuel. i use 91 and put in an ounce of cleanboost maxx concentrate and like a f oz of boostane professional which makes my fuel like 93 octane
also I put the new NGK ruthenium spark plugs in they are great.
1- k&n pod filter or deckplate mod and JBA headers. Get the air in and out better.
2- gm knock sensors.
3 -170 thermastat
4 - champion 3 core radiator
5 -big engine oil cooler
6 - big electric fan & delete clutch fan helps engine spin easier and quicker and will save horsepower you were losing... also did the crank pully with the 4 pound pully from urd. Truck loves it with these 2 mods revs fast.
7 urd 7th injector
8. taking the brass plug out of the bypass vacuum line.. -this helps truck boost faster by gettin bypass to vacuum shut faster. bet this one helps you alot.
9. Make sure you 02 sensors are working good. bank 1 is extremely important. was the first thing I had to replace and it was not throwing a code
lots more mods but these were the best so far until I switch to my methanol kit. thebiggest thing for me was learning to drive with a soft foot until it gets into boost before stomp on it

 

my truck did not like 2.5" exhaust so I went back to my 2 1/4.

 

What’s wrong with the 2.5?

 

I have to pull a trailer for work sometimes. Its heavy for my truck. and after i put on the jba headers and 2.5" exhaust I lost power on my bottom end. I went back to 2 1/4 and it felt better. It could be too that my crank has alot less rotating weight losing me bottom end and then doing the exhaust on top of that was too much. my truck seems to love the top end. its pulling hard when I hit that top speed limiter

 

Many Other people have said before that 2.5” loses bottom end power. Especially N/A. I guess I’ll keep my 2.25”……don’t want to waste my time and spend the cash for that…but it is weird that, according to hp and pipe size charts 2.5” should be right where it needs to be.

 

every truck is different you might be fine with 2.5" . if i didnt pull a trailer I would of just left it on and tried to increase power or lighten the truck up a bit. i was on 33's with stock 4.10 gears when I tried it. and my truck is heavy with the steel arb bumper& winch, steel rock sliders, campershell big tires. I'm probably 500 pounds heavier than stock. So that and with around 20 pounds less rotating weight on the crank it was no good for me. remember you want more rotating weight on the crank to make more low torq. i traded that torq for more mid& high horsepower so I needed my exhaust smaller

 

Yeah I have the lightweight crank pulley. But I’m also auto so a lightweight flywheel isn’t part of the equation.

Not sure what I’m going to do. The fact that I despise exhaust shops is enough to keep me from doing anything soon.

 

Here’s a theory.

forget for a second that we had HGLR ping in the first place.



the 5vz does not use knock sensors below 3000rpm

Supposedly the timing down low is extrapolated from above 3000 rpm.

The URD base timing map increase the amount of timing pulled as you increase in boost and RPM.

Now, if the truck was nowhere near pinging up top in the first place it’s going to run more advanced because the safety window has been moved.

So what does that mean? It’s going to advance timing again down low. And you’re right back to where you started.


Like I said earlier I have not been pinging AT ALL in those HGLR areas. I just pulled up my maps because I need to add some fuel WOT.

I took a look at my timing map and come to find out it was a little messed up. I must have copied and pasted wrong last time I messed with them.

Everything 3500 and above has ZERO timing pulled.

Could my bad copy/paste job just find a potentially game changing bit of information for those who have had ping?

Now let’s go back to why everyone runs the 7th. It’s for the HGLR ping for the most part. How many of us installed the 7th and it still pinged? And how many us is installed the 7th, it seemed to help ping, and then after a few WOT it came back in the HGLR area.





Someone needs to try this.

I’m planning on messing with my fueling more tomorrow and if I can get that dialed in I’m going to mess with the timing map more.

 

I literally did all of this when installing the supercharger. I use 93 octane.

 

What elevation are you?
What pulley size?
I see you have a double cab so you probably have an automatic.
Transgo? Will help with shifting
The auto will keep the motor at lower rpms which is can be a ping issue for lugging.
You might have to get a
1) methonal setup or
2)larger injectors with a
3) better fuel pump.
4) If your running the 7th as said above a better fuel map.

 

valve body kit Does not alter shift points. It can’t do that. It all computer controlled.

 

I have the 5 speed So I don’t have the auto but I thought I read the transgo helped with ping with the rpms?
If not is that all controlled by the ECU?

 

I’m close to sea level. I just have an external trans cooler for now.

I installed the walbro 190 fuel pump.

2.2 pulley. Would it be worth a shot to put the stock pulley back on?

I also have a 170 thermostat

2 step colder plugs

would the URD AFR calibrator help?

 

I also pulled all the injectors when I installed the supercharger, replaced all the o rings and screens. Also replaced knock sensor harness.

 

Ok, not sure about the the URD stuff.

My solution was just installing a methonal kit and I have zero ping issues with 13 pounds of boost.
It unfortunate that these engines all act differently and one solution is not the fix for all of them.

 

Any chance the injectors are at fault even though you replaced the screens?
I had my injectors cleaned and serviced at motor west for 125.00 and got a flow test and balance.
I do remember after I got my injectors serviced I didn’t have any ping issues till I went to the 2” pulley
But I’m at 6000 feet with 5 speed

 

The URD AFR calibrator is user set closed loop enrichment. It’s a map just like the 7th injector fuel map.

The 7th has non user set closed loop enrichment. You can change the point when it turns on but that’s it. It’s about 13.5 AFR until you hit open loop.

URD claims that you can’t go much below 13.5 AFR in closed loop or the ECU will freak out. This is their reasoning why they only go to 13.5

That being said there are some really old posts on custom tacos gadget said he only had a few trucks have issues going below 13.5 AFR. Some people mentioned they were in the mid 12s closed loop

Now, I haven’t had any issues yet. But I am running around 13, lower than URD says they recommend. Only because “it causes issues” I plan to see how much lower I can make it go but I haven’t done that yet.

just a warning though. URD claims 13.5 is as low as you can go. So you could purchase the AFR cal and not get any better closed loop AFR numbers than you do now due to the ECU freaking out.

but then again a lot of the FIC/6 guys enrich their closed loop without issue as well and I’m pretty sure it’s doing the same thing by tapping into the factory AFR sensor and manipulating the signal.

 

All it does is makes the shifts quicker. The factory shifts are “tuned” in the valve body (the brains of the trans) to be softer for comfort. For a not so great example a Cadillac has soft shifts for grandpa but a Subaru has hard and quick shifting because they know their customers are going to Hoon those cars. It’s better for clutch longevity.

basically we’re adding stiffer springs, enlarging hydraulic regulators, etc.

this increase line pressure and keeps heat and wear down from the clutch packs engaging too slowly.

 

Anyone for a lead on some supra injectors, I don't want to get some phony ones

 

when you put your meth kit on did you build a fuel map or does it just spray and the stock computer adds or subtracts fuel as needed?