Turbo BS Thread

Im a 5 lug street truck so LT might look kinda silly, lol. I can always cut down the housing and get custom axles if need be but I doubt I will ever get that much traction to need one, guess we shall see!

 

Tundra has five lug.

 

A double slip is another option. If need be.

 

Depends on the year

 

Looks like 60.75" but that's Prerunner/4x4. I found elsewhere that the 2wd is 59.5".
Toyota Axle Widths: 21 of 'em for Axle Swaps - Roundforge

Ford 9 Inch Rear-End Widths and Potential Donor Cars (roadkillcustoms.com)

Seems closest to fit width wise and find in a bone yard. Square body mustang.
The Ford 8.8 Mustang Rear End (motortrend.com)

You can delve into the Chevy 12 or 10 bolt rabbit hole but I think they will all be too wide.

 

Yeah I forgot, I work on them once every couple weeks yet I work on Tacoma's almost every day mixed with 4Runners..I should know since that's what I do for a living, lol But I had a Taco 4x4 on my mind apparently, oops!

True, I could probably just order one since it doesnt increase the OD very much..

 

I agree with the 10-12bolt being pretty wide, I also have a 67 Camaro with a 12 bolt which is probably one of the narrowest besides a Nova 2 possibly. I should go measure it although its unlikely I would find one of those out there anywhere..
Im pretty sure the 8.8 I have from an explorer should work as I have seen plenty of people swap them into Tacomas with very little modification and it gives you a rear brake disk upgrade as well. Or I can build a 9" but I think that's pretty overkill for such a light setup.

 

Cool stuff. Can't wait to see it.

 

@Torspd we took the manifold off, and it was cracked in the same spot as last time
Brought it to a welder I work with, and he cleaned it up pretty well, and got actual good penetration (giggity) this time.
I'm ordering another manifold, this way if it cracks AGAIN I'll just replace it. I actually didn't think it was cracked this time, as shining a flashlight up into it didn't reveal anything when it was on the truck.
BUT- if it cracks again (Or once the new manifold comes in and I just replace it), I can certainly send you my cracked one to use as mockup for a manifold. I even have the old manifold gasket I'd throw with it so you have a reference point, too.

I tried messaging the manufacturer to see if they've upped their quality control, or changed anything in the design, since this is the 2nd time I've had to fix a crack in the collector area. We ran out of daylight today by the time we got done with welding it, but we'll be putting it all together tomorrow so I'll get some pics once it's all in. Hopefully this solves my problem of making ZERO boost, and running like ass lol.

 

That sucks cracked headers are annoying

 

Agreed. If I had known it was actually cracked, I would've ordered a new one a week ago. Oh well, live and learn. Excited to get the 3071 on in place of the 2871 though! Mockup looked pretty sick!

 

There are a few actions that could help. The easiest is to add a support/s. Due to the fact that it is thin wall, it will alleviate some stress.

Here is an example of what I did.

 

I like that bracing, @Torspd.

Looks like my issue is actually a clogged cat. Replaced the turbo today, no leaks anywhere- but truck wouldn't make boost and felt like the brakes were dragging almost. If I punch the gas, you could hear the motor sucking air (almost like when you first get a cold air intake growl sound), and the turbo spooling without issue. Boost leak test showed all components fine (WG, intercooler, BOV, MAF sensor) along with the couplers. Mechanic friend took a test drive with me and had me punch the gas, and immediately said "Yeah that's a clogged cat" based on the way it was running and responding to throttle stabs.

I'd love to get the URD catless midpipe, since I have a brand new rear O2 sim from my ex's BMW I could use. I'm still stock ECU, so I'm going to ask URD about their AFR sensor calibrator that they recommend for closed-loop fuel enrichment in boost to see if that combined with a rear O2 sim would be a good combination.

Decisions decisions!

 

Thank you, about the supports. 1/2" 304 stainless, if I didn't mention it before.

If you go with a catless mid-pipe, try to get it with flanges. That way at some point you could swap in a catted section if you needed to.

 

What are some nice big cats for some JBA shorties on a 1GR-FE? I want to do V-bands and then normal flanges to a rooster y-pipe. I seem to remember a forum member mentioning their gf had received a similar setup…

 

The catless would be the URD Power Pipe which is flanged on both ends to mate up to the current exhaust. It's the same price (+/- $5) as a Walker replacement.
In reality, I'd only need to worry about either spacing out the rear O2 or using the sim I have new that I thought I might need for my ex's BMW.

I know on her BMW, we used a defouler to space the O2 in the catless pipe and it was enough to get it to not throw a code and pass inspection without the JB4. I'm not sure just how finicky the Toyota O2's are. I saw Vibrant makes the spacer with jets to fine tune how much air it's seeing: https://fasthemis.com/i-23837153-vi...traight-w-adjustable-jets-cel-eliminator.html so I'm kind of leaning that route. What do you think?

 

I did that for my gf, years ago.

https://www.stainlessbros.com/Catalytic-Converter_c_84.html

 

@mZiggy used something similar on his 3rd gen. They may work on yours. Only one way to tell.

 

Well, just got the URD power pipe- so I'll be able to tell sometime soon!

On another note, hearing the 3071 spinning almost makes it sound like it has the T51R mod...it's crazy how much different it sounds!

 

I'm using Fabspeed o2 sensor spacers with mini-cats for my rear o2's, with catted downpipes installed. One 45° fitting and one 90° fitting, because the driver side y-pipe o2 bung location for both OEM and aftermarket means that a 90° fitting would have your mini-cats trying to sit where the pipe does. Doesn't work. So the 45° does the trick. You'll need a 27mm wrench. Lol

I also recommend Remflex gaskets for a good seal at the connections. The Toyota donut gaskets are shit, even with brand new ones I had leaks. Downpipe/dumptube/whatever to y-pipe is 2.25"