Long Travel BS Thread

I just took my first trip out with heimed tie rod ends and I felt a lot more feedback through the steering wheel, some harsh. Is it correct to say that they transfer more energy into the steering rack?

If so, does that cause more stress on the stock rack leading to premature failure?

I’m just curious for the sake of conversation as I decided on the tundra rack which I’m sure can handle the additional stress. I just want to make sure I know what I’m talking about if someone asks me for my opinion on heimed TRE on a stock rack.

 

Its always been the general consensus that heimed steering is tougher on the rack. But the Howe PS pump will solve the feedback issue completely. The difference since I installed it a few weeks ago is amazing.

 

The feedback was mainly when I would hit small rocks a little too hard. Idk if you’ve ever experienced it but if your tire catches a rock wrong and the steering wheel gets ripped out of your hands? Like that but toned down a lot. I had to grip the wheel a bit harder to keep it going where I wanted to go. Granted, this is me going probably too fast for conditions, but it was just an observation I had.

I would love the Howe pump. Just not in the cards at the moment. For now I have a new oem pump to go in and some poly rack bushings to fix this whole “banjo bolt bending and losing braking” issue. So hopefully that improves steering somewhat.

 

I know what you are talking about but i still think its an artifact of the shitty toyota pump and the check valve issue in it.. The OEM PS pump I just took out is less than 6 months old because the original was making noise. It solved nothing other than making the noise go away...hopefully the bushings solve the banjo bolt issue...thats a big one.

 

Oh perfect, that’s why I’m replacing mine, because of the noise. It’s due anyways though, 217k miles on it. And I agree about the bushings. It’s not fun having that in the back of my mind, wondering if I’ll lose my brakes again.

 

Since it's a more "solid" connection along with the more "solid" pivots in your LT you're going to feel a lot more feedback. It isn't a bad thing as far as actually getting behind the wheel and getting better feedback as to what the truck is doing. If you've never really had a vehicle with solid mounted suspension stuff it'll take some getting use to. Personally I love feeling more connected to what's under the tires and what's happening via that feedback.

As far as bad for the rack yup it's going to transfer more energy. I noticed I jump teeth far easier now. Eventually it'll cause an issue but how much sooner than just stock stuff not sure that's all depending. I wouldn't let that be a hesitation in doing it or recc it to someone. It's a worthwhile upgrade which most serious wheelers are replacing racks regularly or upgrading at some point. For the avg overlander meh not really worth it

 

I didn’t think about the solid bushings, that’s a good point as well.

 

Yep it all puts more feedback.

 

@EatSleepTacos you should be able to port the stock pump to eliminate the check valve deal. Would basically just take gutting the fitting.

 

Maybe I’ll try that with my old one as an experiment to see what happens

 

I would. It should help substantially with the feedback.

You also gotta remember with uniball pivots, you will undoubtedly transfer more feedback to the chassis as a whole. Personally, I’d be willing to bet your super light spring rate is also a contributing factor.

 

Has anyone tried to bump off of the upper arm on a kit like Camburg or TC?
Only see it on ones like Dirt Designs, Solo xlt, or LSK race kit.

I assume there’s a good reason as to why it’s not commonly done, probably weak points like tapered uniball adapters or the spindles themselves bending/snapping?

The reason I’d like to is so the bump is only working in the last 2” or so of travel, getting around the problem of them being too active when striking on the LCA.

 

It comes down to support that sort of load to the chassis. A huge bracket to get it there would most likely have too much leverage on the frame. Engine cage install territory. The amount of work isn’t worth the trade off in most cases.

 

you would need a full engine cage and fabricated spindles. a regular ( even gusseted) spindle would fold with all of that pressure on it

 

These^^^

Also add in packaging: the spot you need to put the bump can is currently occupied by the relay/fuse box on the drivers side and the ABS module on the passengers.

 

Thats the other reason I was entertaining the idea, im going to be getting an engine cage/ installing bypasses by the end of this year. Might as well try and see if it makes sense to add a bump off the Uca since I’ll be cutting off the oem bumpstops anyhow.

I’ll talk to my fab buddy who will be doing the tube work and see what he says as well, as the front core support is planned to be all tubes already.

 

I know people will say you cant but it has been done successfully in the past many times. The kit doesn't change what is required on the truck to take the load/ hold the bump. A buddies truck still runs a stock gusseted spindle. We ended up welding the slug into the spindle because after awhile the snap ring gave. Just weld a bump plate on top of the unibal bolt to strike off of. This is a first gen taco.

 

Might as well try and get a kit that uses a vertical uniball fabricated spindle so that you can bump off the upper. Especially if you’re going through all that work.

 

@lemons6245 has some stuff that I like, but his LSK kit also relocates the uppers close to the frame so the can is mounted a lot lower than mine would have to be.

 

The more I think about it the more this seems like the correct route lol. Think I’ll put this Idea on the shelf for now and just go off the lower !