GoFastCamper GFC Mods, Tips, and Tricks thread.

Just in case anyone is interested, I just listed my GFC V1 for sale in the For Sale section. Not sure if this qualifies as cross posting. Cheers.

 

@Rysi

 

I don’t have any pics or videos to teach you how to do it, but a simple way to do that is to use an “add a circuit” or “fuse tap” find a fuse that has power when the ignition is on, install the fuse tap, put the original fuse on one side and a fuse for your new circuit on the other side. Run a wire from the fuse tap to the bed and hook it to the positive terminal on your bed outlet. Hook another wire to the negative terminal and ground it wherever convenient, or run it back to the battery’s negative terminal.

$9 MuHize Fuse Tap Automotive 12v - Add-a-Circuit Adapter, Upgraded 4 Types Fuses Holder with Standard Micro2 Mini ATC ATS Low Profile Fuse Adapter for Car Truck(12 Pack)

https://www.amazon.com/Types-Add-Ci...id=pla-902899181475&ref=&adgrpid=103056501747

I’ve tried a few different 12v outlets through the bed and they always get screwed up from the backsides being exposed to the elements. I’d suggest mounting it in the bed, not through the bed.

 

I also have a gfc for sale. Located in Colorado Springs…3rd gen v1.


Also my cab brake light is leaking water onto my backseat. Anyone change their light with the camper on?

 

Thanks for the advice. Good mounting idea too.

 

$6.8k …has done well…highly considering a sprinter van tho…

 

Am I the only one who doesn't get the interior locking things on back panel of the V2? Aren't they suppose to allow you to lock and unlock the back panel from the inside?

Maybe we're confused about their purpose or it might be an issue with never having experiences a V1.
The video introducing the V2 doesn't actually show what he's doing with the latch in there and we seem to have missed that part of the tour when we picked ours up.

At first we thought they were for actually locking the back panel from the inside but after extensive testing and much frustration we've found that they (or at least ours) don't do that, in fact they're not easily moved when you're sitting inside. From the outside, if you have them in the up position you can secure the panel shut and in the down position you can close the latches and the panel doesn't lock. That seems to be about the extent of their purpose as far as we can tell.

It's cool and all that you can close the latches and not be locked in, but it's not exactly secure. What the heck am I missing?

 

The sliding blocks on the inside allow you open the hatch if for some reason the door is locked from the outside. It prevents you from ever being in the position of accidentally getting locked in. It's not designed for you to engage the locking mechanism from the inside.

 

That's pretty much the conclusion we eventually came to, somewhat disappointedly. I suppose we're going to have to figure something out for keeping it somewhat more secure when needed.

 

What do you need to be more secure?

 

I have a sprinter and just picked up my camper #1684 both have their uses.

 

It's really not an issue most places we go, but soon we will be traveling semi-fulltime and there will be nights when we will have to sleep in less savory or secure locations and would like the ability to lock ourselves in or at least make it a bit more difficult for someone to just open the back panel while we are sleeping.

 

Disengage the blocks, close the door, lock from the outside, climb in, re-engage the locks. You’re locked in

 

You can even do it completely from inside. Just slide the blocks out of the way and press on the lever interior moving part to latch it, then slide the block. It might be easier to hold the bottom of the panel open an inch or so to give yourself more leverage to close the latch.

edit: actually, my instructions will just latch the rear panel not lock it (you do have to get out if you want it locked).

 

See, that's the part I can't figure out, once I've closed the latches our blocks only move about a millimeter. I have to engage blocks to keep the locks from engaging then close the latches from the outside. I can only move the blocks until they bump up against the bottom of the locking mechanism when the latches are closed.

 

The rear panel might not be closed tightly enough. I kind of have to pull the panel closed tighter by hooking my index fingers inside the closed latches and pulling. Then I slide the blocks one at a time while kind of grasping the sides of the latch to keep the panel from moving. At least that’s how I do it from memory. It’s also possible that the tolerances are tighter on your camper (or maybe the rear seal).

 

@ToulaBoula I made a quick video to show how it works on my camper. I misspoke in an earlier comment. I just latch the rear panel from inside (it’s not locked). This same process works for locking it too, but you have to close/lock the latches from outside first.

 

Thank you, @gwiz! A video like that should have been out there a long time ago!

I just went out and gave it a shot and I can do it when I'm standing outside the camper, but once I get in and try it I can't quite hold the panel in tight enough to get the block behind the lock. It's going to require a bit of jiggering around to give me more wiggle room with the locks or keep the panel tight.

Still, this was a HUGE help, thank you, thank you, thank you!!

 

Anyone know if I can safely put extra holes for additional anchor point bolts and to run wires through the rails on my V2? Two bolts on each bar are just not enough!