Eight Facts About Warming Up Your Car in Winter

I am only 16 so I can see why I never seen the ad haha. Right after I sent the first post I realized I forgot lawyer but I knew you had to a be a very well read person who is considerate to the environment, sensible and likes to teach... so I was pretty close on the guess. Thanks again for explaining it to me. I'll add it to my list of words.

 

Its the same thing with cars. People should let them warm up atleast a little.
Water moisture collects everywhere especially if it is freezing outside. At normal temp when you start your engine operating oil pressure goes from 4 psi at idle to 80 psi at 3000 rpms
When is super cold you can get 80 at 1500 RPM so when you revup all the bypass valves open. and your oil filter have helluva work cut for it. There are two O-rings between the pump and filter that hold the seal.
Now even if its not engine power steering pump has crap load of o-rings and much higher pressure to deal with. Rev up and its pushing oil through system like crazy. Cold oil again here will be hard on seals.
It does npot take a lot to warm up to atleast when RPMS drop to below 1000 thats when ECT knows engine is almost at temp and engine bay gets warmer.

 

I'd definitely start with hot water on that one. Seriously. That would be a good example of how the water would not be contacting the cold glass.

Also demonstrates why at some point, turning on windshield wipers is a good idea.

You may have your theories, I have my experience.

 

^^do you think warm water would crack that super cooled windshield? i know it can crack thin glass, but what about that?

 

And also the importance of a synthetic oil that is relatively thin at cold temperatures yet can also protect at operating temperature.

If those who say 90% of engine wear occurs at startup are correct, then it is crucial to use an oil that has a low viscosity number at the traditional test temp of 40C. I wish data sheets included a viscosity number at 0C.

 

Lucas oil makes a petroleum additive that coats and seals your pistons long after you shut your engine down. allows for less wear on your engine on start up.

 

i would use a chisel and hammer....or a blow dryer

 

I do the 3-4 minute warmup idling-I did it with all the 14 vehicles I have owned and have never had engine issues on any of my vehicles. My folks did it when I was a kid their cars always mechanically perfect-like you say, it's a personal thing. That doesn't change the fact that I have had no engine issues using this practice. 14 vehicles under my care-no issues. This is MY opinion here-I personally will not throw a 4000lb load onto that drivetrain till that temp guage bumps

 

and thats another thing. oil temp gauges give you a minimum and maximum your oil should be at (an operating range if you will). if the temp rises above that top hash mark, it raises some eyebrows. why not treat it the same at the other end of the spectrum? just food for thought...

 

Certainly. I agree with the notion there is risk. That is why I try to only pour warm or warmish to cold water on the ice, not on the glass. And I also agree that if you already have a crack in your windshield the risk goes up, way up. Even turning on the defroster increases this risk.

The only time I've seen glass crack due to a temperature differential is when I've seen hot fat (much hotter than 212F) poured into a cheap jar sitting in cold water. Cracked perfectly right at the level of the hot oil.

Windshield glass is tempered (the process involves subjecting the glass to quick changes of temperature) to strengthen it and laminated.

 

Cold water seems to melt the ice almost as fast as warm water with almost no risk of cracking your window. unless you have a chip or something then I would get that taken care of first.

 

yahoo has wonderful articles

 

ya, it's just that the way you say it makes it sound like you're suggesting doing it some way other than just letting it idle.

 

yup; common sense!

 

On the other side of the coin,, who here lets it idle for just a bit before shutdown??,or do you just twist the key and get out?.

 

Rev up to 2000 then shutoff ( 2000 rpms = around 60 Psi of oil pressure ) That will leave some oil pressure even when engine is off for a second or two. Enough to cover things in oil before next startup

 

Interesting.

Took my 22R valve cover off once to examine the oil flow at idle. had a HUGE mess pouring over both fenders before I could get in the truck and shut it down. Kinda amazing acctually. It's a high speed blender in there, just at idle.

Anyone else??