3.4L supercharger

You have variables ,
There is no map,

You set the spay starting points and is progress up to the top point.
Example start at 2 pounds of boost up to 10 pounds of boost depending where you are lean at.
If your lean at 3 pounds of boost or 4 you start there etc.

You can use a #1 nozzle or a #4 nozzle for more liquid to cool and reduce the methonal mixture.

Or run the 50/50 Standard mix and a small nozzle

 

The vast majority of water/Meth kits use a boost controlled switch that ramps up to full meth pump pressure.

So you start your set point where YOU want it, say 2psi, then you set Your MAX set point. The pump will ramp pressure spraying more the closer you get to your max set point. Once you’ve hit your max boost point you set it will spray full power.

Tuning is done with trail an error using your set points and your nozzle size and mixture of water methanol. You can spray 100% water or 100% methanol and anywhere between.

The ECU will trim out any methanol in CLOSED LOOP to stay at 14.7 unless you’re adding so much it can’t trim it all out. Which I’d suspect would lead to the ECU trying to compensate in one way or another somehow.

You’ll be able to see this in your short term fuel trims as the computer will reduce the amount of fuel through the primary injectors to try and keep it at 14.7.

There is no other way to properly tune CLOSED LOOP without a standalone or a piggyback forcing the ECU to go richer.

When you hit OPEN LOOP you try to tune the AFR to between 11-12. A safe number is 11.5 and max power is around 12. You may be wondering why you can tune your AFRs in open loop and not closed loop. Right now with my work immune is running low 11s…From what I understand this is the AFR that the ECU runs in stock form N/A. I’m probably safer to leave it like that but leaning it up a little closer to 11.8 would probably produce a little more power. I’m guessing I’d need a dyno to tell the difference. I’m not sure the butt dyno would be able to tell any difference there. But again, it’s better to be safe.

Open loop does not use any factory sensors for fueling. It uses maps based off of variable such as RPMs and throttle position. From the factory in N/A form the 5vz already runs around 11-11.5 WOT. This is probably to keep the valves and cats safe. Now that we have added boost the increase in air has leaned that mixture up. The computer does not see this because it OPEN LOOP. Therefore it’s not using the factory o2 sensor to keep AFRs in check.




That being said you can get a water/methanol piggyback computer with a 3D map you you can spray the way you want under any condition based on RPM and Boost. It’s called the torquebyte and runs about $500

Google the difference between closed loop and open loop.

 

i can tell the difference in my truck when it goes from one loop to the other it feels like my truck has a powerband... which has got to be bad meaning its probably lean

 

Probably. Ive been doing some tuning today with multiple WOT runs and it’s very smooth all the way through. My AFRs are fairly smooth dropping to ~11 WOT @9 PSI.

I had the same issue you had early on. The built in part throttle enrichment on the 7th helped but my bad Knock sensors with no light we’re throwing a wrench in it.

The biggest difference between then and now is my truck would fall on its face, the belt would slip so loud I could hear it and I would get HARD shifting, like it felt like it was getting rear ended, and really weird shift points under heavy load.

Now it’s a night and day difference. It’s smooth all the way around, I can go WOT and the shift points are good and I don’t get power dropping off and belt slipping.


I’m kinda pissed off that I suspected the knock sensors for years but since I never got a light I didn’t want to spend the $500 to just throw parts at it to see if it would help.

Im not saying your issue is knock sensors but if you get some of the same issues I had besides just the sudden onset of power you should think about changing them out for the OEM Densos.


What are you doing for fuel management? And are you at sea level?

 

ive got the urd 7th kit. all my driving is in the mountains. most is from 2k to 5500 ft and a bunch up to to 8k ft. Its not my knock sensors or wideband 02. Ive already gone through those headaches and know what to look for as well as the throttlebody sensors. my truck goes from quick to dirtbike powerband quick its gotta be just switching fuel maps when that happens open to closed.

 

No. It shouldn’t do that.
Have you checked to be sure output B is set to over pressure and 1PSI in the settings?

 

no. I don't know how to do any of the tuning stuff yet

 

how is everyone routing the Auto transmission kickdown cable with the Doug Thorley headers?

 

Well... I sucked it up and decided to get the hardware kit from URD. Mainly just needed the bracket that can accept the throttle cable and the kickdown cable. That being said... I will have a couple throttle cable brackets available for the MT application or the 03-04 autos that don't have a kickdown.

 

I have a 2002 but installing a first gen charger onto my truck. Has anyone else ran into this issue with not having a mounting location for this wire? I was able to bolt it to the top of the SC but kind of worried about the wires becoming brittle from heat.

 

Looks like a ground wire? Should be fine, could always wrap it in heat shrink wrap.

 

Looks like just Ground i can check where i routed to tomorrow and let u know

 

yeah it’s just the ground that tees off from the engine harness. It originally bolted to the lower plenum of the stock plenum/manifold assembly.

 

Ah ok probably see just as much heat from stock location just keep it away from the header and make sure it has a little slack to move if the sc flexes

 

good call, I’ll need to extended a little bit because right now there’s very little slack in it.

 

Just curious what type of gas mileage are people seeing with there SC, i am seeing about 10 mpg with 11psi just normal driving.

 

Im seeing about 18 mostly highway. City driving I really don’t know. But filling the tank is cheaper than a another payment.

 

I haven't driven with the SC yet but prior to the truck breaking down, i was getting 16.5 MPG N/A. I'll let you know if it increases or decreases once i've driven it around a bit.

While we're on the subject of gas... My truck broke down with about 1/2 a tank of 87 octane in it. Should i throw a couple bottles of octane booster in it and call it good? Siphon it out and put new 93 octane in it?

Gas has been in the tank since last Halloween, so 9 months. My gut is telling me to just siphon it out, but wanted to get some other opinions on it.

 

It would probably be wise to do so. That being said I did fill a tank with octane booster and Premium that had been sitting for 4 years. It was on E to begin with and it was okayish besides all the dried out belts and manifold vacuum leaks.

Oooph…I don’t think you’ll get a siphon in there. There’s probably an anti siphon screen. You may have to drop it.

I absolutely hate the double cab tank sender location. It’s in the absolute worst location. Ive been in there 4 times and it always sucks.

 

Can confirm that it sucks. I just had it dropped to swap the pump out too; and now that it's back in place again, i really dont want to drop it. I'll try the siphon and see if that works, but if not... octane booster is gonna be winner.