Long Travel BS Thread

I'm confused can you explain what deep pockets are and how much do they cost. I hope not to much because I'm a little short on money lol

 

Three link with trailing arms has been done

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2011-pyrite-mica-lt-build-bs.310050/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/toyotally-awesome-08-tacoma.328604/

 

Steve at dirt designs has both 3 and 4 link for 2nd gens designed around short beds, you just end up with a smaller motion ratio because of how far back you push the coils and bypasses to not have to deal with the cab issues.

 

sorry bro but that’s just not true there are a ton of linked tacos that have great geometry without going into the cab at all

 

hey me too…
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/gone-surfing.551113/

 

nah you don’t have to stretch the wheelbase at all there is plenty of room

 

Good to know. I'm still figuring out all the geometry and all these build threads are a massive help thanks

 

Dunes and crawling and you’re from Utah. Must be near sand hollow haha, love that place.

Like others have said, jd fab makes a great 4” kit, dirt king has a great 3.5” kit and total chaos is one of the most tried and true kit out there and their race kit would be a top contender as well. Personally I’m running the dirt king kit with a custom spring under setup in the rear and I love the fast stuff and getting technical kn the rocks. A 3 link would be awesome. The red “totally awesome 08” truck is my buddies old truck and it was a beast.

And sounds like you got your head in the right place understanding that things take time and that shock tuning and suspension geometry are important. So hopefully the shop you’re at will get you some good geometry with the rear link design. Lots of knowledgeable people in that area building amazing rigs. Slap some internal bypass coil overs on all corners, pick your poison for companies for a front kit, upgrade front axles, upgrade rear axle, get to tuning shocks and have fun. Truck will be a beast

 

I’m saying to maximize. I’m not saying it can’t be done. But to get everything you can out of links. I too looked into it, and even drew it up in solid works. It was actually a serious thought for a while. But until my truck is at minimum back halved I can’t justify it.

 

Plus these trucks are already long with terrible break over angles for in the rocks.

 

I guess my main question is, without going batshit nuts and back halving. What is the actual benefit to links over a nice SUA? Are you pulling that much more travel? Are you actually able to run a bypass as well? I couldn’t get over that hump when I was looking into it. More money for the same travel and functionality is where I ended. But I’m still learning so maybe I missed something.

 

dude you could pull way more travel with links, mine is a very mild build with 12” CO’s tucked into towers under the bed and it gets 20” ( 9up bumps just below frame / 11 down )…cut through the bed and run a 16” CO to a bed cage and you’ll pull big #’s.

Yes, you can fit a bypass.

Zero axle roll.

Adjustable ride height.

Super easy to play with spring rates.

Adjustable pinion by simply turning the 3rd.

 

You can pull big numbers in the back all you want. But at what point does it outrun the front? Considering the factory upper arm and shock mount and cv’s we are pretty limited up there without changing all of that as well. I do 100% get why links are awesome. But if the rear out runs the front, what’s the point?

 

My reason for wanting to link is that its not how much travel but weather the trave you get is clean travel or dirty travel. Also I never intend on pulling a trailer or having any sort of load so to me leafs are not necessary. Plus with a link set up it will be easy to put a sway bar in back. But I could be way off base

 

All the things @Evenflow said. Plus you clean up anything low hanging behind the axle such as leaf springs and shackles. (I crawl the shit out of my leaf setup but I do drag it a lot)

From a performance standpoint you do want the rear to out perform the front to some extent. But they also have to be balanced as you go over terrain with weight transfers and what not. Which is where geometry and tuning comes into play.

The limiting factor up front is like you said, stock pivot points and cv’s. Which a lot of people are afraid to change. Look through that build thread posted for the totally awesome 08, granted he’s 2wd, but he was pulling a very balanced 18” up front and 23” out back from his setup with the trac +4.5 kit up front and his 3 link rear. Or look at @dirtaddiction build if it’s still on here or his IG @thedutchman running a solo kit up front and solo links in the rear with plenty of 4wd travel. Or for an awesome diy garage/driveway build check @Basikbiker truck out. 4wd and he’s built everything on it and uses and abuses and puts it away dirty haha.

 

Thought about it and that new camburg kit is kinda silly. If it uses the same stock fit shock you could essentially just use 2in wheel spacers or cut up a UCA and stock lower, add 2in, and get the same effect. No wonder they went wild adding the fancy bump setup to upsell it. Hopefully there's more to it or people fall for it anyways - i'm in the market for some better LCAs on the cheap lol

 

I guess I’m just looking at things from my current stand point. I have 10” of droop out back and maybe 4-5 up front. It just doesn’t pair well together. I know it’s common to have more travel out back than up front but I’m just wondering what that fine line of too much is.

@Basikbiker build is absolutely sick. And truly inspiring what can be done with minimal stuff.

maybe I’m nuts to think the best way to link is going to be back halving. Idk, I’m just trying to learn here.

I truly am excited to have LT front and rear to see what a proper setup does. I’m sure it will open the door to even more learning experience. After all, that’s what we all seem to be chasing. And that’s what makes it fun!

 

2” wheel spacers and a 2” longer control arm do not give the same results. The +2 kit gains more travel by pushing the outer pivot outward. Aka the spindle is moved further from the pivot point. Not just moving the wheel out

 

The best way to get more up travel is to back half and to get everything placed where you want it like batteries, fuel cell larger than 40 gal, spare parts, but it’s also going to cost a ton more due to the fact you’re married to building a cab cage if you don’t already have one instead of adding it later. It’s generally the idea to add one if you’re going to run your truck hard no matter what, but you won’t have a choice to spread out the cost and add one later if you back half and don’t already have one.

 

That's kind of my point with links. If you're going to do it, you may as well do it. Back halving allows for a 4 link instead of messing with a 3 link and panhard. With SUA you can get pretty wild with the factory back half. Eventually my truck will be caged, I just know that day is coming. So if I'm going to link it, I only want to do it once.

As far as the cost of caging goes, its not really that substantial in comparison to everything else if you have the ability to do it on your own. Through my business I am able to get 1.75 .120 DOM for right around 100$ for a 20' stick. Which realistically isn't terrible. The time on the other hand, is substantial. And that's something I severely lack right now. Which is why I am liking the bolt on parts at the moment.