Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

2.25" measured on mine

 

I'm not paying shipping back and forth a bunch. Plus I'd like to have like a 16 & 18 550s and can swap them same day go for a drive muck with it and not have to wait on coils shipped

 

I’m all ears for any combination of alignment settings that would max out adjustment on the tie rod. I don’t care how shitty you do castor and camber you’ll have room to toe it in within reason.

 

It’s called put real cam bolts in. Go to an alignment shop and pay the small fee while they make it right.

 

pull your wheels off and take some good photos and post them

are you 100% sure that you don’t have the uca’s on the wrong sides ?

 

There’s a pic on page 389 of the UCA. They are correct

 

No, I want to hear your exact “this is what I do for a living” advice on what combination would max out a tie rod and still have it toe out. I know plenty of people who “do stuff for a living” but don’t know shit. You want to be an expert? Explain something difficult to an idiot like me. It should be easy for you

 

I don’t think many people want to just throw a bunch of money out to experiment like that when there are ways to get somewhat accurate estimates without the upfront cost.

You also sound like you have entirely too much free time on your hands compared to other people in this thread.

 

Cam adjustment shouldnt be the issue here. Its in the tie rod setup, while yes the cams do play a roll im toe, his setup is still using stock pivots so yhe range of motion hasnt changed, its just set to one spot.

If your inner tie rods are the same as oem, are your outer tie rods the same length aswell? Either way your going to have to cut down one of them, i suggest the inner as you can visually see how much adjustment you have and can base how much to cut off of that. When caster is maxed on stock setup, your tie rod adjustment should be almost all the way in with very little threads showing.

 

This is the only picture i have of my oem tie rods, this is with caster set to max on stock lower pivots. As you can see there is very little to no threads showing. Thats what you need to get proper alignment. Somewhere in your tie rod setup is not the correct length.

 

So, what do people think is the best option for steering? My steering rack/pump is definitely not happy to be pushing 315s around. I was planning on doing the modified tundra kit (Basikbiker or Solo), as I don't believe the jdf slide rack kit works/is specced for the 3rd gen (yet?). I guess I was also looking at the jdf Howe TC pump -- can that be used in conjunction with the tundra kit, or is it only for the taco rack?

Am I better off just getting another stock taco rack and the Howe TC pump, and waiting for the slide rack for the tacoma kit, or stepping up to a bigger rack?

 

Fuck stock rods, just why? All this awesomeness and then make it WORSE running some adapter? You need a solid rod machined. This is maddening.

https://jdfabrication.com/collectio...tacoma-05-15-double-shear-steering-tabs-49-99

word to the wise. plan accordingly.

 

I no longer had my OEM outers like I thought, but had another brand and they matched in length. I pulled back the boots thinking I had somehow unscrewed the inners, but no. Maybe the extension isn’t allowing enough inner into it. I verified that it is indeed all the way in. Here are pictures of the tie rods from earlier-

 

@Dayman Karate i still think you should take your wheels off and take some thorough photos to post. Nobody else has had the problems you are describing and all of the kits come out of the same jigs …so there is something clearly wrong with either some part that you have or the installation

 

Something is off.

I was trying to look over his posts too for similar thoughts.
@Dayman Karate are your inner tie rods oem? Or also aftermarket?

 

Here’s before taking out the preload and making alignment changes-

 

Aftermarket but I verified with my old OEM that they are the same length

Also just went digging through the garage and found an OEM outer and it’s the same too

 

Kinda I come from a racing background we had a bunch of different shocks, springs, hogs heads, and tires to play with and swap around for track conditions and different tracks we ran.

That calculator will get you close as far as what will hold your vehicle up but there is always the human feel. I may like a shorter spring with a little more preload than a longer one with 0 preload. There isn't such a thing as too much free time it's what you choose to define as free time vs productive time. Me getting my suspension dialed exactly how I want it to feel isn't free time to me it's necessary time needed to get the most out of the money I've invested so far.

 

I’m going to throw out random ideas now since my first thought was mixed up lower ball joint adapters. I cut my steering stops off and mixed them up. They ended up on the wrong sides. Yours appears to be correct.

What is the depth of the threads into your tie rod extension? Did your oem outer thread farther onto the inner than the extension? At correct alignment numbers before disassembly.

 

The extension is male to female, so it bottoms out in the outer and in this case bottomed out in the inner going into it. Before disassembly, I marked the location with painters tape and screwed the extension up to that point. I realized that wasn’t going to be enough toe in, and quickly ran out of threads. I had maybe a quarter of an inch of threads left on the old set up before it would have bottomed out.