Hoodliner for Ticking is a FAIL

I miss driving my old 80's Mercedes diesels. I miss the clatter at idle, no wonder the Taco Tick doesnt bug me

 

You should have read a little deeper. Comprehension is a good thing..maybe stop slapping your head.
Other opinions were one input. Too bad the net is full of idiots (not you). It was a cheap try.
There is some rationale for a hoodliner doing something (why do they exist in other Toyotas?)

The main point of the thread's first post was to let anyone pondering this issue know, with some attempt at empirical evidence, that the hoodliner does not work for ticking.
Trolls aside, i think that goal was met.
We have crossed paths before. I expected better from you.

EDIT: the firewall is not the whole story. if you don't insulate the doors etc you'll
be picking it up there. just about any surface. Enclosing the cab, as Key-Rei and rainoffire did, is likely the only thing that will fully work, deadening wise.
The firewall is a big one though. There is already factory insulation on most of it. I'm sure it could be better. It may not even be for noise purposes.

 

lol. never owned a diesel but if i did i'd enjoy the clatter.

 

Still have my 1997 F350 7.3 Powerstroke. Gotta turn it off at the drive thru, as neither party can hear each other. I will even shut it off for the person ahead of me.

 

Wish I had room for one of those. Last year of the 9th gen nose if I’m not mistaken. Had a ‘96 F150. Best pickup truck ever with the manual and 4.9L inline 6.

 

I would like to note I did absolutely nothing to the firewall. I was very wary of ripping out the dash just get access to the firewall's sheet metal.

Even then, I think CLD+CCF & 50%MLV has given very satisfying results.

 

i was assuming people dealt with the firewall from the engine side. there is deadening material over most of the firewall in the engine compartment. i took a close look today. quite extensive with a few minor gaps near the top of the wall. it looks like it should do something but also looks like it would not be hard to improve (material wise...access is another isssue).
i took a look at the fuel pump and rail insulation. it appears it can be removed easily with two large screws. it might be interesting to replace the cheap foam with a better insulator. kind of wary though since i don't want to give toyota a foothold to deny any possible warranty issues in the future (ex. pump heat dissipation problems). it sure looks like they tried to quiet it and it looks easy to improve.

 

I pulled back the minimal sound deadening on the passenger side and drilled a 1.25" hole there to add a firewall wire boot for routing some wires through.
I'll be doing it again on the drivers side here shortly to run switch wires through for my compressor and some other accessories.

 

I’d be interested in a Double Bed Long Cab (DBLC) as you could potentially carry much larger items with a higher payload in a 10 or 12 foot bed.
Did you have it custom made to your specs? Was it expensive?

The longer cab also sounds great.

 

I had the tick... but brought my 2016 to dealer (bought in 2018, noticed ticking summer of 2019... I had the HP fuel pump replaced under warranty.. technically theere is nothing worng with the pump it functions as it should however the roller rod that operated the pump is too long and causes the tick.. and is replaced with an updated version of the pump... was told its a $800+ part, add in labor @$90/hr... its a roughly 2hr job... so damn close to $1000... its the only issue I have had with my tacoma, other than typical trans hunting.. REPAIR GUIDE SAYS ITS A $2100-2300 repair.. got my warranty worth before it ran out...

 

Nah. The ticking wouldn’t be affected by the hoods resonance, if it was then ‘Dynamatting’ would help it a lot more. I bet it sounds a lot more satisfying when it closes now though.

When I installed my tailgate lock, I used a few leftover pieces of Dynamat inside the tailgate to quiet the ‘clanking’ noise made by the actuators operation . That absolutely quieted things down . Its a sharp muted ‘CLICK ’ instead of a loud sloppy ‘CLAAAAAANK’ .

That type of sound deadening works the same as if you leaned your body against the tailgate while locking . It mutes the ‘ringing’ from the flex / vibrations of the actual sheet metal.

You can quiet the tick, but it would involve a tremendous amount of insulation to a) isolate, and b) quiet down (absorb) the reflective properties of the source of the noise. Waaay too labor intensive and not cost effective.

 

Interesting. I was thinking it might be too short and the roller was slapping on the cam. I can't imagine my dealership changing it out
for this reason. They have done a lot and are probably getting tired of this truck.

 

You are hitting on the right stuff but a little explanation makes what you wrote somewhat more relevant. (Not meant to be preachy - just adding to your essentially correct post since it looks like you will understand and not say it is a truck or turn up the radio or WTF - lol - all of which are valid ).

All things vibrate or resonate at a frequency dictated by their physical properties. If you add the mass of the liner to the hood, it will resonate at a different frequency. Resonating requires deformation energy and takes out the energy in the particular resonant frequency, and harmonics thereof. So, mass loading will change the transmission of the sound thru the hood. Was the frequency calculated - hell no. Does transmission thru the hood matter - hell no.

On the other hand, this thing is claimed to be a "sound soaker" which is BS. It is lined with a solid sheet, impeding the sound waves to be absorbed from efficiently getting into the material. Take a look at an anechoic chamber (google image it). Walking into one of those is a freaky experience. It is amazing how much we rely on reflections for our perception of where we are. The materials used in a properly designed anechoic chamber have NO covering and are of varying depths and configurations to soak up the sound waves and reduce standing waves, ie, not reflect. That shiny material on the hoodliner is possibly for heat and dirt but reduces the noise attenuation properties of the liner, if it really has any.

If the hoodliner was 100% efficient and infinitely large and the noise was considered a point source (pretty much is) you would absorb 3dB (barely humanly perceptible - you need to measure, not just say "it's quieter"). And that says nothing about the other transmission paths. It is basically useless for noise reduction purposes.

So, reinforcing what you were saying, noise can be reduced by mass loading and material absorption. There are other methods - look up Helmholtz resonator. In this case, the best solution is to attack the source before the sound propagates thru other transmission paths. Short of that, you can isolate your ears from it by enclosing your environment like some do by lining the ENTIRE cab interior. If not ENTIRE, you can get some relief but it is minimal. Air gaps (this is a big one) and solid transmission paths quickly overpower partial attempts.
I believe Dynamat is a fairly reputable company (I may be wrong). This foam product is a loser for the reason most people buy it (sound rather than heat).

EDIT: the 3dB example is a gross over simplification but it puts dB measurements into perspective.

 

Absolutely.. 100% agree . I found myself waiting for a drawbridge this am , so I pulled out my phone and gave a quick answer lol. I didn’t have a chance to look at the product you demo’d. Nice work on the original write up by the way.

 

It helped me with loud a** intake noise a little