Let's see your FJ case swap

Would this switch work for the ADD? I think I read I needed an on-off-on switch?
https://www.otrattw.net/l-series-TEXT-ONLY-independent-leds-L16BBYT-5AH.html

 

No, you’ll need either a DPDT switch or a DPDT switched relay

 

Thanks. One more question, in reading the various posts and trying to figure out my solution. It seems there’s a common issue with the ADD actuator in front of the diff. Is that the same that’s referenced in these posts as they are referring to replacing the axel tube for the ADD delete. Or does ADD delete require to lock the fork on the actuator and replace the axel tube?

 

It’s users preference what you want to do. If you want to retain ADD benefits and functionality, then you would wire in the switch. But that actuator can fail and you’re left without 4wd.

The other option is to eliminate ADD. You can swap to an FJ solid tube or just leave the ADD engaged all the time. This is what I did.

I switched to 4hi and then unplugged the 4wd ecu and did the fj case swap. The ADD is permanently engaged with the option to go back later on and wire in the actuator if I want to.

 

I did the other, deleted ADD, 4WD ECU and put in the FJ solid tube.



On another note, twin stick is amazing. I never thought 2 lo would a useful thing. It is great. No binding in the front end, but nice and slow on the trails.

Most used part of the mod so far, I am always in 2 lo on the trails it seems

 

thanks the the quick replay. That’s pretty much where I’m at currently, actuator failed. Looking to to FJ swap for manual J shifter. But with the swap (in reading the various posts) there’s still a possibility of failure unless I do the ADD delete. So I’m leaning towards doing the delete as you’ve confirmed my understanding with a failure point.

 

Main failure point of the actuator is water seepage. I RTV’d the hell out of it and kept the ADD. My truck’s my daily, wanted to keep it close to factory as possible. If it ever acts up, I know how to fix it in the field and permanently engage it

 

Yeh totally make sense. I noticed the hose to the actuator was disconnected over the weekend on my truck, I think water might have gotten in thru there. I’ll probably pull it over the weekend to confirm if that’s what caused the failure.

 

If you have to buy a new actuator to get your 4wd back, I'd just as soon buy the manual tube and forget about it. Buying a new front actuator with an FJ case installed is kind of dumb, I know Randy said he wanted to keep the "benefits" the ADD actuator has to offer but quite honestly I've yet to see any.

If your current actuator is working, you could just wire the switch in and use it until it breaks (which it eventually will, those things suck)

 

Had a question the other day after doing an oil change. Interwebz says the 4wd base takes 5.5qt (with filter) while the prerunner takes 5-5.2(saw both figures), even though they’re both 4.0.

Granted I always fill/check according to the dip stick, but what have you 4x4 swap guys been seeing when changing oil? I only pulled out about 4 1/4 qts when I drained with the filter. Added ~5.5qts.

Anyone else notice the difference? Just want to make sure it’s not overfilled.

 

I kept my actuator (permanently engaged) solely because it cost me $0 and no time at all vs swapping to an FJ tube. There are benefits to the system, there's no denying that. Slightly less wear and tear on the front end. Whether or not that's worth it to someone comes down to preference. For you and I it's not worth it.

 

I never saw any of those benefits but I believe that's what is advertised. For me, I had to replace it twice because it had failed twice, before I finally replaced with the tube. So for that less wear and tear on the front end it cost me upwards of $600 to be able to keep my 4wd functional. For that price, I could have replaced both CVs and both wheel bearings and probably the front driveshaft ujoints too. But yes, if yours was working I'd do the same, keep it there until you need to replace it.

 

Maybe they are assuming the 4wd has the towing package which has the oil cooler, that might be the extra 0.3 quarts? I don't think I've ever paid attention to how much I put in as far as quantity, I just check the dipstick. I usually have 6 quarts (a 5 quart and a single 1 quart) ready to go when preparing for the oil change.

 

yup that’s exactly what’s going thru my mind, either buy new actuator and wire up and still have a point of failure or go FJ with the ADD delete and FJ tube. So my guess is that what ppl meant when they say for the price of a new actuator, you can go manual FJ but will have to do the delete... that delete part was left out. Kinda sorta

 

that’s what I was guessing. Just a random thought when I happened to see it. Had a brain fart when buying oil and googled to double check.

 

Since I have ARB air locker up front, if completing the ADD delete with FJ tube, would that cause any issues when the locker gets pressurized?

 

the locker does not pressurize the axle tube.

 

Thanks for answering my dumbish question.

probably last question, in researching for the ADD delete and wiring to have the indicator lights on the dash. I saw folks wire directly to the dash and others cut and splice 2 wires from the 4x4 ECU. Both options works I assume? Is there any benefit to either or?

 

Bypassing the ecu is for trucks that have 4wd from the factory. Going direct to dash is for people converting from 2wd

 

ahhh thank you, that makes sense