Puppypunters idea hole

With a 9 volt battery verify LED. If no illumination invert positive and negative. 2 & 7

 

Duplicate the 4Runner:

With this:

36_1H & 30_1D Driver's Junction Box (& fuse)

M6_6 & 27 Main Body ECU connector

@daveeasa could set you with the diodes. Or
Sumitomo 3 Pin M Double Diode
Sumitomo part number 6098-0129
Part name 3P-CA 090D 3M1.5 C
Sumitomo 3 Pin Female Connector
Sumitomo part number 6247-5031
Part name 090 3PF
http://www.cycleterminal.com/mt-built-in-diode.html

 

Still can't buy the darn cycleterminal female housing, I check all the time.

I do have some 2 position 280-style diodes which I paid way too much for, could throw them in a metripack 6 pin w the cap or maybe try to get one of the square-ish 4 position guys? No need for an extra fuse to make the 6 the best option? I haven't yet purchased the mounting tabs for them, they are in my waytek cart waiting for me to shell out the $...

 

Thanks so much guys! The diodes are needed due to combining the front and rear door signals, correct? If so, I'd only need one of them for the passenger side. For the driver side, I only have the front door set to trigger the steps. The rear door is used mostly for loading stuff into the truck and it's easier on the shins if the step doesn't extend.

 

Correct

 

Heat shrink could work. A little proletariat though, don’t you think?

These are the diodes I do have, not as clean as the 3 position option.

 

It's a hidden item once installed, no need to use epoxy filled heat shrink. It's quick and tight. One small diameter ones on each female terminal and a large type for the whole "assembly".

 

You ever thought of using the unlock as a secondary trigger?

 

I haven't put much thought to that as it got complicated pretty quickly. Unlock signal from key fob would lower the steps on both sides, opening the driver door should keep the left step deployed, but the AMP controller would probably retract the right side if no doors were opened. Not sure how their logic is programmed into the controller. I suspect there would be some unnecessary lowering and raising of steps on one side. Ideally I think I'd like the steps to deploy either by door trigger or the AMP override switch (if I decide to use it) and have the puddle lights work with the lock/unlock. Definitely some options there though.

 

Do you have the *.pdf of the AMP module?
Edit: Never mind, read the file at the AMP site. 4 wires as ground triggers.

 

@caribe makaira

I've got wires pinned into a test connector. Confirm pin 2 is ILL (-) and pin 7 is ILL (+).

Tapped wire at switch pin 3 into the LF door switch circuit, connected wire at switch pin 4 to wire to AMP controller LF input.

Tapped wire at switch pin 5 into the RF door switch circuit, connected wire at switch pin 6 to wire to AMP controller RF input.

Removed all connections for the rear doors since I do not have a diode.

Steps will not deploy under any conditions. Switch has no effect. Removed the switch from the equation and it works as before. Tried only connecting the left side circuit, same results.

The switch should be a basic on/off but with two separate inputs and outputs, right? I can't figure this out.

As an alternative, could this switch be wired up to control a relay that would simply turn the AMP system on or off? If so what would that diagram look like? It might be easier to have the relay manipulate the ground as the wire gauge is much smaller. Just want to explore all options. Wires to the system are a 16ga ground and a 12ga fused 30a power.

Thanks

 

The signal the AMP requires is ground. When doors open, the door open switch makes ground to chassis. This is what you are tapping into. When doors close, the ground is "lost", signaling the AMP to close/retract the steps. This x4 for each door tapped.
Maybe the switch is bad. Test continuity on each switch position, ON-OFF, and each open terminal not used for illumination.

 

Switch tested fine pin to pin. Switch with connector and with wire leads did not, so that indicated a connection problem with my test connector. Removed the wires from the connector and plugged them directly onto the switch pins and it worked, so my test connector had issues.

I did find an unsatisfactory side effect of connecting the switch to the door signals, and its that the AMP controller will automatically retract the steps when you shut the system down. Sometimes (like when washing the truck) you want them to stay down, so you could extend them then flip the switch to lock them down. Wired this way, they will still retract because the controller is still powered.

For shits and grins I did a quick test up at the main AMP harness and fed the main AMP ground wire to the switch output and from chassis ground to switch input. Worked absolutely perfectly.

So I know the switch is good, and I know switching the ground wire for the AMP controller works. My question now to the electrical gurus is what would be the best way to handle it? My test worked with 18ga wire which is smaller than the 16ga that AMP uses. Since the switch has two ground inputs and two ground outputs, should I double-up and use them both? Or connect via a relay somehow?

Appreciate the help very much!

 

It's a "signal" not the juice the AMP motor requires. Even smaller gauge would work, like the wires your tapping into are smaller than 18 awg.

 

Good Morning @Puppypunter & @kmorgan3! Was wondering if you could make wiring harness’s extension that are plug and play instead of me splicing them. Reason I’m looking to make them longer is to relocate where I want the switches. The wiring harness I'm wanting made is to relocate my power sliding rear window switch that is to the left of the steering wheel to the center console switches below dual climate controls. Relocate the backup sensor alarm switch from the center console below the dual climate controls to the left of the steering wheel. A harness for the ECT that I can turn on from the MESO Stealth Shift Knob that has the has 2 buttons that can turn on things. Finally, need a couple of harness to illuminate the Anytime Backup Camera Switch & fog light switch. I've reached out to daveeasa and he suggested you guys for insight. Looking forward to talking to you guys. Please DM for any questions or conerns. THANKS guys!

 

I will let @kmorgan3 take first crack as he is better with switches than me. If he is too busy, I'd be happy to take a look at it and see what I can do.

 

@Puppypunter sounds great, thanks for the help.

 

Hello all,
I wonder if anyone could point me to where to buy OEM plugs/connectors, and how to identify what connector goes with a switch.

 

Kinda vague...