New info JBL system lower ohms to increase volume

So the Kicker Comp C 4 ohm dual voice coil wired to 2 ohm with jumper is what we need? Would single voice coil not work ? What about the COMPR or higher grades would they not work as well with stock amp?

 

just finish my jbl upgrade a week ago... my opinion just upgrade the tweeters to the kicker subaru upgrade, just cut and splice it... did the jbl gx series speakers and fosgate 8'' sub.. ended up putting the factory sub back in... factory amp dont have enough power for it...theres a reason why the rear doors was a 3'' speakers... the 6 1/2 almost sounds the same...not enough juice in the factory amp... with this audio project to me was a waste... now im gonna put money aside and get the oem audio plus... thats gonna be the better route for me cause i want that clean bass that the factory jbl cant produce...

 

Rear door speakers are 3"? What wattage was Fosgate sub you tried? Think kicker is like 150 and factory amp pushes almost 100 and that's why they say it works well. Idk man I get encouraged then discouraged then encouraged then discouraged by what I read on here. I read the 250 sound upgrade and how awesome it was then read another thread if you have jbl it's pointless. Read all this thread got excited and just read in another thread OP saying after all these tests best to leave jbl paper cone in and just keep amp cool .... why didn't it say that here??

 

My 2020 rattles once i go pass 25 in the volume.

 

the rear is 3 1/2''... i compared left and right rear door, one new jbl 2.3ohms and one stock jbl 2ohms... sounds slightly better... just to be straight honest for me the kicker tweeter in the dash was all i needed for now... do the tweeters first, then you can decide for yourself...dont buy everything at once.. you might not be happy with the results...

 

I'm contemplating on getting the skar ix 8 dvc4.

I. Just curious if swapping it out will be a waste of time and $50

 

My opinion yes unless you're going to put a amplifier on it I put a Kicker Comp C dual voice coil 2 ohm Bridge off factory amp. Sounded maybe a little better but not worth the price. I have a comp r 8 on the way I have a little 200 watt amp I'm going to try use high level input and see how that goes. Hopefully I can get that done this weekend. Will still have bass roll off I'm sure but hopefully Amplified it won't matter. We will see

 

DansTacoSR5, any updates? I did the kicker C as well. Better and sometimes great but needs more juice for sure or a Ross over adjustment I think would make a big deal as well

 

Sorry I didn't update, The amp I had was trash would power on but no output. I have a kicker amp ordered should be here tomorrow. I'm very anxious to see how this goes. I already have power and remote wire ran so hopefully won't take long. I have a plan B but hopefully won't need it.

 

So I just bought a 2019 TRD Sport with the JBL sound system. The OP seems to have done a lot of exploring with the system.
I am curious from him (or anyone) whether or not this has held up?

And to be clear the strangest issue I have seems to be the volume. It doesn't climb nearly as high as it seems it should and also starts to roll off the higher frequencies at high volume. An improvement in low end sound would be welcome but I am mainly after a general increase in volume while maintaining clarity.

 

I have poured and poured over everything in this Forum and continued my own research online. Your comment went under the radar. Here is a possibility:

Maybe the OEM sub is DVC at 2ohm per coil. And maybe the amp outputs are really a mono output from a single amplifier channel that has been split at the output point into two sets of positive and negative lead to the sub. If that were the case the factory amp is feeding the factory sub in a parallel configuration. If accurate the the sub is 2 ohm DVC and the amp puts out a mono signal already split in parallel, then the amp would see a total impedance of 1 ohm from the factory sub.

When the OP installed his first sub it only had 2 leads and @ 2 ohms. Presenting a total of a 2 ohm load to the sub since the CV sub is basically already in parallel internally. I hope this possible scenario makes sense.
So maybe the higher impedance is taking a load off the amp and its digital logic is recognizing a lower demand due to the lower current draw from a higher impedance sub and delivering more power to the rest of the system?

 

*bump

Has anyone else tried bridging a 4ohm dual coil sub to 2ohm and running the red and green outputs to it? Looking at trying either the CV or the Comp C. For the price, it might be worth just giving it a shot.
Any recommendations on a dual 4 ohm sub?
Also, it looks to be unanswered in this post, but would a single coil 2ohm sub wired with the red/green outputs from the amp produce similar results.
I’ll be trying it soon and will post back on this thread how it goes. I don’t think this thread is dead yet.

 

I used a Polk Audio 8" dual voice coil sub. Works great bridged. The Polk came with connections for all 4 wires and a specific wiring hookup.

 

Thanks a lot.

I was looking at that one as well. it is another high performer in older Highlander forums too. It had an almost identical system.

https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/toyota-jbl-system-specs.392031/page-2

The system specs are layed out in intricate detail on that page.


The Polk specs say it cuts out at 200hz though. The CV specs at 34.5-500hz. The kicker specs at 30-500hz (OP had said the kicker cuts at 40hz though). I’m still not sure the freq range that is actually being sent to the sub.

Im hoping to only need to purchase once and be done. I want to hear the sun prior to any next upgrades. Dash speakers with 3.5” 2-ways being next, then test. Rear, speakers, then test. Then front 6x9 subs last.
It is difficult because all components should be 2ohm, and on the lower power side, with the highest sensitivity rating I can find. The amp puts out very low peak and rms to the different components. The only thing that really gets some juice is the sub, and that is only 100W peak. So, I figure there is no need for high powered speakers with gigantic magnets.

Anyone else, please chime in on suggestions to look at for any of the components other than adding amps and crossovers, or signal processors. Just speakers.

 

I just installed a Polk 8” DVC sub in place of the Factory JBL. ran at 2ohm and it is a very noticeable improvement from the factory system now.
seems that all the speakers have picked up a brightness and are achieving more volume as well as more low end punch at lower volume. this was a less than $50 fix and took me about 15min.

 

Great Choice

 

Would you please elaborate on "ran at 2 0hm" and is the actual sub a MM842 DVC 8"? TIA

 

Newcomer here with 2023 Tacoma TRD Sport, same volume issue.

Can someone please confirm exactly the sub wiring configuration required to pull more volume from the system, without swapping any parts? I have read every post in this thread however I'm not at all familiar with audio engineering. If I understood correctly, changing the wiring configuration at the sub end will result in an increased volume in the rest of the system. I don't need more bass or "better" sound necessarily, just more volume. From all the posts I'm a little confused as to which wiring combination resulted in increased volume.

Thank you!

 

The sub is a 2 ohm sub. So lower resistance means higher volume.
I have the same sub

 

Thank you for the detailed analysis. I'm not versed in these matters but I'm trying to understand from your posts if it's possible to pull more volume out of the stock sub by changing the wiring to it. Can you confirm the sub wiring configuration required to pull more volume from the system as a whole, without swapping for a new sub? If I understood correctly, changing the wiring configuration at the sub end will result in an increased volume in the rest of the system. I don't need more bass or "better" sound necessarily, just more volume.

Is it:
1) Changing the wiring to parallel, in other words removing one positive and one negative from the sub, and placing the remaining negative in the now empty negative? Do I need to run wires from the terminals on the sub (positive to positive and negative to negative) to complete the circuit, or is this done internally?
2) My understanding is completely off and if so please explain.

Thank you!