Troubleshoot help please - Low oil light then engine noise - Oil pump?

What are your oil change intervals like, judging by the amount of sludge buildup they need to be at least cut in half or find some better quality oil.

 

Yes sir, I agree. There is obviously a change needed in my maintenance of the truck regarding the oil changes. The thing that threw me off was the oil looking so clean, I thought I was good. Not knowing the sludge build up that was taking place. I will be regular with flushes with my oil changes in the future to work to clean it out and also not have it repeat. I will also probably switch over to synthetic as many say its so much better for this type of issue.

 

thats just step 1 ..................

U attention is drilled down on the oil pump

in NO way was it performing correctly

the oil pump feeds the filter then the Big End Rod Bearings FIRST !!!!!

if the pump was not performong correctly

it is highly UNlikely the Big End Rod Bearings re in good shape

oil return orifices NOT Likely to be flowing freely

oil feeder channels to ANY vital parts/ functions starved for adequate oil supply

a Direct Result of the Compromised oil pump

 

If you do alot of idling or slow speed driving that could be a contributing factor as well, every hour of idle time is equivalent of about 25 mi of driving.

 

So today I got the sump cleaned up and the oil pan. Good news was that there were no signs of any bearing or other significant wear of the engine in the pan. The bad news was that the sump screen was actually about 80% plugged shut which probably led to reduced flow. I'm wondering if just the oil starvation caused my timing chain to start yelling at me. I'm really glad I took it out to check...

A few questions...
I need to still pull out the cam chain tensioners to clean them up. Does anyone know if I can pull them out without taking off the cam chains?
How to test the cam tensioner as well because the Bank 2 moves with a slow hydrolic motion like a brake hydrolyic, but the Bank 1 Doesn't seem to have that hydrolyic. Is there a seal inside that can go bad?
Also, the water pump gasket is a beast of a gasket. If the dealer doesn't have one, has anyone had success with re-using the old gasket?
One other thing is what is a good aftermarket gasket sealer that would be equivalent to the Toyota brand for the oil pan and timing cover?

Thanks

 

reusing old gasket.............

i dont beleive or use RTV EVER

IF ( total maybe ) I Had to reuse a gasket i would ‘ COPPER COAT ‘ it

spray on let dry......spray on let dry.....seveal more times ......takes a few days if old gasket intact

if torn NO !!

no less YAMABOND ( yamaha ) can work if applied correctly..............essentially NOT apllied

like most folks muck up RTV!!!!

 

I don't see why you couldn't take the tensioners off without removing the chains as the chains have to be installed before the tensioners just be sure you mark everything incase something slips.

I wouldn't be afraid of reusing the water pump gasket if it's in good condition, if I remember correctly it's a pretty robust rubber clad aluminum gasket.

As far as form in place gasket maker if you can't get the Toyota stuff I'd say probably Permatex "Right Stuff"

 

You can pull the tensioners without removing the chains but you might need to pull the exhaust cam bolt to gain more wiggle room. Toyota uses a gasket maker called fipg. Permatex ultra black is equivalent or better. Felpro makes a water gasket that's fairly cheap and readily available.

 

OK thanks for the help on the gasket, sealants and removing the cam tensioners info. Do any of you know if a cam tensioner can go bad, like does it have an oil seal inside of it to hold pressure? The reason I ask is because my Bank 2 feels like it has good suction with smooth measured movement like good hydrolic pressure (Like a rear break wheel cylinder) with even only light amount of oil and air. The Bank 1 however moves with the spring in and out a little sticky or gritty movement and I don't feel the same hydrolic suction. Do they have a seal so can go bad, and how to test? If so, I may have found the problem...

Thanks.

 

There is no listed procedure to test them but they should lock when they are extended unless they are unlocked. I would say if in doubt replace it.

 

OK, yes I have that and it only talks about the main chain tensioner and I do have that off and notice that it extends and locks. However I believe the cam chain tensioners may work differently like hydrolyic and can move and retract, not just extend only. Am I wrong on that?

 

Oh yea those don't appear to have a locking mechanism but there's still really no way to test them. I'm pretty sure they use oil pressure just like the main tensioner though,

 

If memory serves- the passenger side one does move slower. The driver side can be fully compressed/extended fairly quickly but passenger side tensioner takes steady pressure to be fully compressed- similar to break cylinder

 

Hey Kel, Thanks. I may have gotten my Banks numbering turned around. My passenger side is the one that moves without any hydrolic feel, and the driver side moves nice and more slowly like it has a suction and I hear air escape out one side... feels good like it has a good rubber seal.

So my question is... are these cam tensioners actually hydrolic and thus gain pressure from the oil, or does the oil enter them just to provide good lubrication?

Just a note: Found one cause for my extra sludge as well as a cause for my rear main seal which I noticed has a small leak. I discovered that my PCV valve was totally plugged which would give no air flow across the left side cam cover. This vid he explained the engine can gunk up when that happens. Also said some people have also drilled out the other cover 5mm hole to make it larger on the air intake on the passenger side which he said helps with additional air flow. Sounds like a good idea to me.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0iTmJkBrdQ

Also, I found a Youtube video that sounds basically exactly like mine did with the noise, the the diagnosis was the chain...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JhkKDlzIqCE

 

They are both. The oil helps offer tension, and the small port allows chain lubrication.

 

OK, thanks. I just took off the right side tensioner, the one I think the seal is bad. I did it keeping the cam chain on, and just removed all the bearing bolts to the exhaust cam, then lifted the cam up still with chain in place and was able to have clearance to take the tensioner out by itself.

 

I following, want to see the final rebuild. Hoping it all goes well.

 

OK, I will keep updates going as some day it may help someone else.

Well today I went to the city and the only Toyota dealer this side of the country of Costa Rica. Of all the parts I needed such as VVT valves, little oil screens, fan belt, O rings, valve cover gaskets and some seals, they had nothing in stock, and said they would have to get via special order and import 80% of it from outside of the country (1 - 4 week wait time). I thought they would have most of what I need... boy was I wrong! Time to start looking for these things from US suppliers and get them shipped here. At least I found the MMO. At a local auto parts store I was able to get the below products. I plan to use the Hi-tack spray to re-use my water pump gasket as it looks fine. However this Loctite silver was the best gasket maker I could find.

Do you guys think it will work for the timing cover and oil pan, or should I order the Permatex ultra black is from the states?

Also does anyone know anything about this oil filter brand "Luber Finer"?

What is the best online source for Genuine Toyota parts I can order, or brand of equivalent quality for the VVT valves?

Thanks

 

Never heard of it, I stick with the OE

$32 Toyota Genuine Parts 90915-YZZD3 Oil Filter 1/2 Case (QTY 5)

90915-YZZD3 5 pack on Amazon for $27.

Rock Auto should have everything you need although idk about the shipping costs to Costa Rica.

Cloyes and Melling are pretty good brands for timing components if you can't get OE.

 

luber finer have been around quite q while

if U check the usual comparisons oilfilters typical choices on shelves USA

1/2 arent worth a damn.......................few equal OEM


if an oil filter does its job TOOOOOOOO Good!!

it will clog then ‘ by-pass ‘ essentially NOT filtering