Troubleshoot help please - Low oil light then engine noise - Oil pump?

Guess I've just never seen one, I've seen alot of different brands of filters on vehicles that have came in for oil changes but don't recall that one.

 

they make truly GOOOOD Filters

for many applications..................field + construction equiptment

hydraulic lines

water filters ( some engines filter thecoolant )

pumps

 

OK, thanks for the info. No problem shipping things here, I have a US address that I can get stuff forwarded down here at a fair price. I will look into Rock Auto. It's good to have a referral

Crazy thing on the Luber Finer filter. Amazon for this cost $9, but I can buy the same one here at the gas station for $5... And it's actually new.

 

i rarely consider $$$$ as the basis for my endeavors

doesnt mean that i spend more..............its mo better

uber Finer make quality products............no need to chase around the barn 6 times

in reusing the gaskets..........it reall about the ‘’ smear ‘ application

dont ‘ glop ‘ the sealant on

i do wonder what the mystery oil is for...............make an excellent injector cleaner

 

I have cleaned the motor as much as possible from what I can reach from the top of the heads and timing chain and oil pan sump areas. I realize I may have gotten only 50% of the total sludge out at most because of all the hidden areas of the head and block and the bottom end. I have available here ATF and MMO so this is my engine cleaning flush plan I will be alternating with these and changing the oil with these frequently and filters until I feel the engine is clean enough to run it at normal mileage oil changes. I have heard Diesel can be used also, but I need to research more to see if that is a good idea or not.

 

If you decide to go the rock auto way- a 5% discount code is easy to find online. Every little bit helps

 

There are many small diameter drilled passages for oil galleries. These will be the most difficult to access to clean. Typically, some are found in the connecting rod leading from the journal bearing to the wrist pin. Others are in the crankshaft to feed oil to the journal bearings, up the con-rod to the wrist pin. There are others........

These are likely fouled or blocked. I suspect your problems to clear the slime are just beginning.

 

If the MMO/ATF blend doesn't work (which will be hard to tell without a subsequent teardown) then the diesel, in a small percentage to the oil, would be the next method. That I can think of. There may be other additives/solutions for breaking down the junk, that work well.

I tried Amsoil engine cleaner once. On that engine tear down, it didn't look like it had done much.

 

You almost need to take the oil pan off, submerge the entire engine in solvent and spin it with an electric motor with the plugs out

 

Seafoam is another readily accessible option. Either way- this thing should get multiple oil changes with a cleaner over the 1st hour or so it is run. I wouldnt be surprised to see the oil filter full and clogged within 2 minutes of start up.

 

if the goal is to get the engine running U will be successful

if the goal long term is bring the engine to a satisfactory level remove ‘ most ‘ of the sludge.......

not have further or similar issues

flushing wont accomplish that goal

a teardown would be proper

diesel fuel will dissove most ....NOT ALL sludge that could diminish vital oil passages

( not unlike clog arteries resultant blood clots )

by no means sarcastic

good luck with Ur endeavor

 

What I noticed on the cleanup is the thick soft chocolate sludge that is easy to get off (almost 1/4" in some places thick). The pressure washer took most of that off the areas I could reach. However under that on many parts is a thinner layer like 0.5mm of dry rust colored crust, reminds me of top of piston with carbon buildup. This stuff is much older, has to be chipped off like scraping paint with a screwdriver (not sure if this is just layered "varnish"). Under that and on the rest of the metal is the dark varnish. I am in hopes that the flush can accomplish to keep the vital areas open so I don't have any bearing issues. My back main exhaust cam bearing had some of the sludge in the channel, but still was getting oil to the bearing. Some of the others and maybe the crank bearings are porbably about the same as Knute mentioned due to the feeder holes in the rods, etc.

 

sounds like you destroyed your engine. should have removed the excess oil before driving it.

 

Can't fix the past. Only learn, and preemptively move forward.

 

I flooded my truck. Entire cab under 2 ft of water. Was told it was totaled and couldn't be salvaged. Had it fixed for under $500 and ran it for years. Use every misfortune as a tool to learn from. This engine ain't dead till you decide it's dead. I'm really looking forward to how you make out with it.

 

So am I.

 

excess oil was NEVER the issue.................in reality the latent ‘ Sludge “ was the basis

 

So got everything I need ordered online to put it back together. The belt, VVT and valve cover gaskets I got from Rockauto.com and the rest of seals and screens, I am buying OEM from Lakeland Toyota overstock. Should have everything here by the end of the month.

I researched a bunch on flushes and decided after I get it back together to first do a good engine flush with what I have already around the house... 3 qts of cooking oil (100% soybean), 1/2 qt. ATF, 1/2 qt. kerosene, and 1/2 qt. Diesel gas with a new oil filter. Run it at idle parked for 5 minutes. Then drain it all out, change the filter again, and I will probably drop the oil pan again just to verify I got any of the loosened chunks of sludge out of the bottom oil pan and that my pickup screen doesn't have anything stuck to it as well. Next I will fill with 1 Qt. of Marvel mystery oil and the rest with motor oil and run that until my next oil change.

 

I would highly advise against the above concoction, none of the products listed are remotely good lubricants for an automotive engine.

You need to remove any sludge you may have disturbed, you are correct you will need to shortly pull the pan and probably cycle through several oil changes very rapidly. There is no need or advantage to throwing any kind of solvent into the engine at this point.

The problem with any solvent type of treatment is it cutting loose too much crap at one time, kind of like taking a strong laxative.

I suggest you use any cheap 5W-20 or 5W-30 engine oil instead of questionable products for your rapid oil changes.

 

know what a double boiler is..........

a pan with solution inserted on top of a pan o boiling water

heat is transferred from the boiling water to Ur solution..........................DO NOT BOIL UR SOLUTION DIRECTLY OVER HEAT OR FLAME !!!

oil in excess o 200 degrees will dilute & melt sludge.........

almost impossible to idle an engine to get that temp range in the circulating oil