Haltech Stand alone ECU supercharger 3.4, SILVER BULLET TUNE www.snpspeed.com

Got the bung welded in for the haltech 02 sensor, got a plug bolt for it to hold me over till I install it.
You will need to add this for this installation.
It wil be installed next to the AFR 02 bung.

 

Took about 30 minutes or less running wires + vacuum lines and got the haltech hooked up.
Once all the wires are run and hooked up it takes a minute to go back and forth if you want to go back to the OEM ECU except for removing the 02 sensor.

It starts and runs but is running super rich.

So I will uninstall it so I can drive to the tuner and reinstall it for the dyno tune on Thursday.
Once the wires and vacuum lines are all laid out it then takes less then 5 minutes to reconnect or disconnect.
Very simple install.
Things to note,
1) disconnect the battery ground wire for install to be safe
2) Make sure the haltech 02 sensor is connected to power when installed in the bung after you power the unit up, if you leave the 02 sensor in the exhaust bung and the power is disconnect to the haltech
apparently this can damage the 02 sensor.
3) bung needs to be welded in for the haltech 02 sensor
4) you will need a 1/8 or 1/4 “T” barb type vacuum connector to get vacuum to the haltech.

 

Rich eh? Did you try to drive it at all? Or just idle?

 

No, just at idle, I believe now that the base tune essentially just gets the motor running and then you tune everything from there forwards.
I did notice my scanguage OBII was not working so I will have to see why that’s the case as I spent the extra money for it to be functional after the tune is done

 

Yeah, scangauge is important. Does it cost extra to keep the OBDII datastream active?

 

You probably need to re calibrate the scan gauge for CAN or whatever Haltech uses. The OEM ECU uses ISO-whatever standard.

 

Well? How did the tune go?

 

Well had some hiccups,
1) the down loaded file was corrupted and took them a good part of the day to figure that out.
Gabe sent over a new file and it started and ran just fine till the 2500rpm Mark.

2) crank and cam sensors I have are old with lots of miles and are wearing out
producing a weaker signal that the haltech can’t see as the coil wears out.

The stock ecu is more forgiving of the problem than the haltech. The wires are not shielded in the jumper harness and the ecu is a lot more in depth on the haltech so it needs a crisper signal for the cam and crank sensors. Both Jamie and Gabe agreed. With the miles the toyota sensors dont hold up as much as some other manufacturers. Was recommended to use ONLY OEM sensors and of course there
are none in the state, so having them overnighted and hopefully Tuesday will be the finish.

So my recommendations summaries at the end with include a more streamlined plan for the next person.
3) the plug and play was super simple otherwise for the wire harness parts.
You can literally switch back and forth in a minute or two if you keep the stock MAF in place

 

Toyota hall effect sensors typically produce an extremely dirty signal even when they're good and the OEM computer can deal with that. But often times people who are patching in piggybacks also have to put resistors and or capacitors in line to get the piggyback able to read the signal accurately. So if you still have trouble after replacing your sensors you may want to look into that it's pretty well documented with mega squirt. And you should be able to solder them in line at the piggyback harness.

 

Just some harmless unsubstantiated and anecdotal info. I had ping issues for a while. Somewhere between replacing my crank sensor a bunch of other minor stuff my HGLR ping nearly vanished. I want to believe the crank sensor has something to do with it. But then again maybe not. Who the hell knows.

 

Certainly can't hurt to replace it at his trucks age anyway.

 

If I had any sense I would have done the cam when I just had the cover off for months it would have been a good idea. Oh well. Seems to run mostly ok. Much better than before.

Except for the vac/boost leak I think is at the injector air assist and IAC valve hoses are freaking buried.

baby steps.

 

At 670,000 miles I'm replacing both of them Monday

 

If you need a '98 ECU I have one available. check out the truck I am parting out.
It had a supercharger which I am currently putting in my 2001 truck.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/convers...-4-excab-partout-southern-california.2631485/

 

The difference is the mega squirt doesn't know how to (can't) handle the voltage increase created by the rpms from the sensors.
The haltech can be programmed to accept it or modified it with a filter possibly.
Gabe said he's never had problem with the stock sensors OEM newer condition with the haltech and no resistors or caps will be needed.
The haltech you have full control of everything with the ability to program any particular section.

 

The megasquirt units aren't having an issue with voltage, haltechs don't either. They don't like the extra spikes of background data caused by a non conditioned signal, it's the technical equivalent of trying to read fine print text over a TV that is displaying static. You can't discern what is the signal and what is the garbage around it. One of the reason Toyota sensors are a PITA, most others read a larger trigger wheel with less sensitive sensors. The Haltech may have an internal signal conditioning circuit of some sort though that you can adjust the selectivity of. If that's the case then hopefully the only issue present is the old sensors and they'll get you dialed in right away next time.

 

Just out of curiosity. Would it net you anything to clean up the stock sensor signals to the OEM ECU? a few timing degrees maybe? Or maybe a larger safety widow?

 

I doubt it, the OEM ECU is designed to read the dirty signals, it's very selective. The cam one is the easiest to read since it only has one tooth to read haha. The trigger wheel on the crank has miniscule teeth, but once you clean up the signals it's still plenty clear to aftermarket ECUs, so as long as that circuitry that cleans the signal in the OEM ECU is still good it shouldn't matter.

 

Damn. I’m going to send you a PM on a PPS issue I’m having. Im trying to determine if it’s sensor, resistance, or short related. I’ll try to keep it short. Just don’t want to dirty up this thread.

 

Also I'm going to have a before dyno and after dyno done to compare the stock ECU with the haltech ECU Tuesday,
But the forecast says 98 degrees,
So power will be definitely down.
More than likely will follow up will an October dyno when temperatures are 60-70