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Long Travel BS Thread

Discussion in 'Long Travel Suspension' started by amaes, Aug 20, 2010.

  1. Aug 14, 2021 at 6:47 AM
    OCtaco9

    OCtaco9 Well-Known Member

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    You can buy them from kartek you just need to know the length you need
     
  2. Aug 14, 2021 at 6:48 AM
    EatSleepTacos

    EatSleepTacos Well-Known Member

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    Of course you can, they offer everything. Thanks for the info, seems like the easiest option.
     
  3. Aug 14, 2021 at 7:13 AM
    CGoss

    CGoss Well-Known Member

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    I used 3/4-16 threaded bungs and DOM tube, but ill be going aluminum next time around.
     
  4. Aug 14, 2021 at 7:40 AM
    snowsk8air2

    snowsk8air2 how hard can it be?

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    JD also offers them for whatever length you want. Or ruff stuff has a kit out of dom tube and threaded bungs. I was going to go the ruff stuff route but the JD ones were only like $50 more if I remember correctly.
     
  5. Aug 14, 2021 at 7:44 AM
    EatSleepTacos

    EatSleepTacos Well-Known Member

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    I took the time to piece it together with the kartek and camburg stuff and it'll be $450 OTD. That's with 1.125” x 0.25" wall 4130 tie rods. I believe that's pretty much the same price as JD, so 6 in one hand half a dozen in the other.
     
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2021
    Dalandser likes this.
  6. Aug 14, 2021 at 7:51 AM
    snowsk8air2

    snowsk8air2 how hard can it be?

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    Sounds about right. I think the ruff stuff route was a little cheaper but then you have to actually build them. For me, the few hrs of my time wa a worth just spending the extra $50 or whatever and having someone else make them
     
    nudavinci64 likes this.
  7. Aug 14, 2021 at 7:53 AM
    EatSleepTacos

    EatSleepTacos Well-Known Member

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    Agreed. Plus I would rather have one solid machined piece, no welding or anything. Both from a strength standpoint as well as time, like you mentioned. We've spent this much money on our suspension thus far, so why compromise at this point to save a few bucks.
     
  8. Aug 14, 2021 at 7:59 AM
    snowsk8air2

    snowsk8air2 how hard can it be?

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    Exactly. Plus the older I get the less I want to spend hours and hours building something myself when I could have spent a little bit of cash and had one delivered in a few days. At least until I build a shop and acquire some more tools. Then I may build more of the smaller stuff again.
     
  9. Aug 14, 2021 at 8:00 AM
    EatSleepTacos

    EatSleepTacos Well-Known Member

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    Dude, yes. So much yes. Same with other aspects of life too. There is shit that I can do but sometimes I would rather just pay someone to deal with it. I feel like that's just part of getting older and valuing your time more.
     
    snowsk8air2[QUOTED] likes this.
  10. Aug 14, 2021 at 11:19 AM
    EatSleepTacos

    EatSleepTacos Well-Known Member

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    While we’re on the topic of the tie rods, what’s considered the standard for thread engagement on the heims? For the tie rod, I would assume half thread engagement for both inner and outer when you have 0 toe, that way you have the most adjustment you can get, both toe in and toe out.

    I just don’t know if half thread engagement is enough, and should instead be closer to, say, three quarters engagement.

    Just asking so I can measure properly to order them.
     
  11. Aug 14, 2021 at 12:04 PM
    ovrlndkull

    ovrlndkull STUKASFK - HC4LIFE

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    Jam nut will take up some space on threading them all the way in. Depends on the heim you use like if you get std or really long shank ones. 1/2 should be fine especially since you have the jam nut taking up some threads. The jeep has ~1/2 on its steering linkages
     
    EatSleepTacos[QUOTED] likes this.
  12. Aug 14, 2021 at 9:01 PM
    81Trekker

    81Trekker Well-Known Member

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    I have them specifically for your kit with the machined tapers to clear the coilovers. You can also reuse you’re outer heims, misalignments and hardware which will save you money
     
    nudavinci64 likes this.
  13. Aug 15, 2021 at 12:39 AM
    nudavinci64

    nudavinci64 Robert @ Holy Horsepower

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    Happen to have them or can for a +2 TC kit? I already have your outer Heims.
     
    ovrlndkull likes this.
  14. Aug 15, 2021 at 8:53 AM
    Evenflow

    Evenflow Well-Known Member

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    The older I get the steeper the ratio of the value of my free time vs cash gets. I think I’m sitting at $1k per day currently…
     
  15. Aug 16, 2021 at 5:49 AM
    emelianenkov

    emelianenkov Santa/Alex Emeliahoweveryouspellhislastname

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    Anyone have alignment specs for a 2nd gen with a 3.5" LT kit? I can't get this thing aligned worth a damn.
     
  16. Aug 16, 2021 at 6:33 AM
    snowsk8air2

    snowsk8air2 how hard can it be?

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    Toe: 1/8” toe in
    Camber: 0 to -1 degree
    Castor: 4-5 degrees if you can
     
  17. Aug 16, 2021 at 6:43 AM
    ovrlndkull

    ovrlndkull STUKASFK - HC4LIFE

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    Why toe in?
     
  18. Aug 16, 2021 at 6:59 AM
    EatSleepTacos

    EatSleepTacos Well-Known Member

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    Harry also recommends 1/8 toe in and when asked why, someone else chimed in that it has to do with steer ahead.

     
  19. Aug 16, 2021 at 7:29 AM
    EatSleepTacos

    EatSleepTacos Well-Known Member

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    I bought the camburg inner adapter but it ended up being a wash between JD and Kartek for the remaining parts, so I went with JD. Faster turnaround and a nice hunk of aluminum vs 4130 chromoly.
     
  20. Aug 16, 2021 at 7:37 AM
    Sterling_vH111

    Sterling_vH111 Go do something real instead.

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    I’ve been told by alignment shops that slight toe in is good because when driving, the tires want to flex/pivot outward, and toe in keeps them straight, wearing better in the long run and handling better is n the freeway.
     

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