The 5.29 Mega Thread!!

Glad to hear it. I'm going to be on 33s with a lot of weight in the back and I was thinking of going 5.29s.

Might follow up with you in a month or two if you dont mind.

 

Please do! I can already feel the difference. Some people told me that a regear isn't necessary on 33's with a manual, but from what I've experienced so far that ain't true!

 

just outta curiosity what's ur OD ratio in ur trans? i have a 5mt with a .81 OD

 

I’m not quite sure, but I do know that the 6 speed tranny has 2 OD gears (5th and 6th), manual and auto.

 

First Page

 

Oh is your rig an automatic? I knew they had 2 od gears but I thought yours was a manual

 

No mine is manual, but 5th and 6th definitely felt like overdrive before I got the re gear done. Much better now that the ratios are closer between all the gears than before, but it definitely tops out at like 90 now.

 

I wonder if it would be weird to throw 37s on the back and 33s in the front to keep the r’s down on the highway lol?

I looked some stuff up, I think you have a .71 overdrive. Which would be really nice

 

I don’t understand what you mean about closer ratios?

 

A wide-ratio transmission has a more drastic change in gear ratios between first and second, and third and fourth, with fourth gear being, say, 1:1. A close gear ratio is more gradual, but again ending up at 1:1 in fourth gear.

 

What does that have to do with a regear to 5.29? Tranny gear spacing is unchanged with a regear.

I have not regeared - and I can understand that performance from a stop is different and that 6th is more useable but the statements that shifting between 2-5 is much better I don’t get. Won’t the tranny still try to shift at low RPMs and put you out of the power band like it does with stock gearing? I think this is why the tune is also needed to get the full benefit if a regear.

 

I pulled the trigger and placed an order for the assembled 3rd and clamshell core swap package from ECGS. Last time I had to pop the axle out to install the ECGS bushing it was a pain. Hopefully it's easier this time.

 

i found it easier with an extra set of hands. Having one put pressure on it with a pry bar while I used a large flat head to catch the small edge that looks like it’s made for popping it in and out and a hammer popped it right out.

 

I use the wedge n pry bar method, takes less the 5 min.

1. Disconnect sway bar link from spindle

2. Remove the 2 LCA to spindle bolts

3. Use a screw driver or chisel to pry the CV dust shield away from the CV and toward the diff

4. Using a large cold chisel as a wedge, hammer it between the CV and diff housing

5. Use a pry bar between the CV and diff housing to pry the cv out and pull back on the hub to clear the cv of the diff.

 

What’s up brutha, wanted to run this at you. A pretty good whine is coming from the diff, I am thinking it’s the pinion. It’s started after I changed a lot suspension wise on the truck.
In a nut shell, I added a deaver stage 3 pack, and I think my angles have changed up enough to where things aren’t happy.
You can really hear the sound when I take my foot off the gas or decelerating.
You think my backlash needs to be adjusted.

When I get it rolling at hwy speeds I can get it to a specific spot where it sounds like running your finger around a whine glass with water. Seriously harmonic!

Any help Chris is much appreciated.

 

A whine could be multiple things. I don't think it has to do with pinion angle, you'd get druveshaft vibration if that was out of spec.

Whine can come from too little or too much pinion bearing preload which results in a roasted bearing(s). Whine can be from improper pinion depth. Then Whine can be a normal sound with the gear set you have. What may have happened when you changed your suspension is you removed something that was insulating the natural gear noise and now you hear it. Only way to really tell is to pull the diff and do all the checks. Pattern, pre loads, and back lash. If all that checks good, then it is just an insulating property you removed upon the suspension swap. It's def not a bad idea to make adjustments to your drive shaft as well.

 

I really appreciate it. Will do!

 

Not a tacoma, but I just re-geared a GC460.

I have broken in for 300 miles now. 20 miles followed by 45 minute cool down. Am I okay to just drive like normal until I change the diff oil at 500 miles?

I have noticed that the vehicle can basically cruise at 10mph or more at idle, and my MPG went up by 1.5 MPG. I switch to larger tires ("33s")

 

Went head and tuned the truck to the KDmax Regular on 89plus Premium gas. With 5.29s its a huge game changer. It's been a couple of days only but I can confidently say my cheeks hurt from all the smiling. The truck feels lighter then when it was stock. It's holding the gears longer and it feels more powerful through out the entire gear its in. Highway driving feels so much better, no more gear hunting and no more dead pedal. The drivability is greatly improved. Entrance ramps to the highway are fun again.
For those that have re-geared and are still not completely happy with how the truck drives, a tune could be a good option for you to consider.

Initially the gas pedal is little touchy, but after 3 red lights you get the feeling for it. Kinda of like when you drive someones else's car, you have to learn the pedal for a couple stops. It feels like that. It feels like a new truck.

 

"checks" Does that mean it's worth the money

Mine is getting done on Tuesday.

Going with Yukon 529 gears. I'm already tuned but will be updating it for the gear change in the very near future.