3rd Gen - AC Outlet in Cab and 400w Anytime

The wires to the bed receptacle are larger gauge (x3). And they carry 120v AC @ 3 amps. The rest are 22 awg.

 

Thanks! That raises some interesting questions: That's the only original AC receptacle on the vehicle, correct? That means there'd have to be a separate set of higher gauge output wires on the inverter in order to feed that receptacle. Wouldn't that also mean that the wires being cut and spliced in this how-to aren't the wires leading to the bed receptacle? If so, that means they could be feeding something else and, at such a small gauge, aren't intended to provide the same power as the bed receptacle.

I know that folks are saying their added AC receptacles have worked fine for several years; however, I'm concerned about a substantial fire risk waiting to happen if I perform this mod myself. 3 to 4 amps over 22AWG or 24AWG wire seems like a fire waiting to happen to me. Thoughts?

 

Undo the center console, take a look for yourself. An eye "gauge" is so relative. Or undo the screws to the bed outlet and look at the wires there.

 

Thats Just crazy talk.
do you think is right for people to DO the work themselves? come on man...

 

Yeah, Allah forbid we give and take within this forum and learn from the efforts and experiences of others. That's crazy talk.

Anyone else see separate sets of different gauge output wires from the inverter when you performed the mod and added an additional AC receptacle?

 

3A is nothing and AC has smaller gauge requirements than DC. You don't even have to remove the bed outlet. Just look up the poop shute.

 

Here's an example of not using the "eye gauge":

Let us know what you understand of this...

 

Ampacity of a wire is effectively the same for DC and AC over short distances (i.e. chassis wiring) since skin effect, resistance, voltage drop, and heating effects are negligibly different for these distances, voltages, and size of conductors. A wire that can only carry 3 amps of AC will only carry 3 amps of DC.

While the various charts available on the interwebs are just a guide, the ones that get down into the small AWG sizes do seem to indicate that 22AWG or 24AWG can handle the 3 to 4 amps that the inverter outputs. That, of course, depends on the wire insulation rating. Most automotive wiring insulation seems to be rated for 90°C = 194°F.


https://www.coonerwire.com/amp-chart/

PowerStream's chart indicates the same general idea for 24AWG wire, showing a max chassis wire ampacity of 3.5 amps. Interestingly, the chart shows 12AWG ampacity to be 9.3 amps for "power transmission", even though the NEC lets us use it for 20 amp circuits in residential AC. Reinforces that there are a lot of calculations and variables that go into these charts.

https://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

P=I*V means the inverter needs about 37 amps of DC in order to make 3.33 amps of 120v AC (400 watts), so there will be a larger gauge wire feeding the input side of the inverter.
https://www.batterystuff.com/kb/tools/dc-to-ac-amperage-conversion-run-through-an-inverter.html


I'm still curious if there are two different gauges of AC output wires on the inverter...a smaller gauge leading to one location and a larger gauge leading to the bed AC receptacle. Or, if there aren't, why did Toyota switch from a smaller gauge of wire out of the inverter to a larger gauge of wire back to the AC receptacle in the bed. Perhaps that's just how the loom was built--with default wire sizes or heavier wire sizes since the loom is external. (Rhetorical question at this point.)

Anyway, I appreciate the help in arriving at the correct answer because science rather than because no one has experienced burned wires yet.

 

Are you being sincere or sardonic? I'll assume you're being sincere: It's a chart that describes the circular mil area for a given American wire gauge (18AWG in this case). Two different methods for measuring the size of a conductor. It also lists the nominal resistance for 1000 feet of that particular conductor. Were you looking to ask about something specific within the table?

 

I never use the AC outlet in my truck. I do use the cigarette lighter/usb ports though. So I installed a piggy back from my USB ports in the arm rest to be accessible from the back seat. Cigarette socket for my camping fridge and a double USB port with a voltmeter. Exterior looks great, interior not so much. My step up bit was just a little too small and ended up cutting the rest out with my pocket knife, ha.

 

No question on my part. Just to show that there are different makes of "same" gauge wire, strands size, strand count.

 

Any reason why I couldn't do this and (literally) cut out the outlet portion? I'd like to just hard wire a camera battery charger, seems like I can just cut off the plug and splice into the blue and white it looks like? It doesn't have the 3rd ground plug, just two prong. I probably wouldn't even bother with the 400w any time unless it wasn't enough juice as is. It pulls 15 watts, so should be just fine I'd think.

Am I missing anything? @caribe makaira that solution you posted is obviously much cleaner, but this does seem quick and easy.

Thanks!

Lyle

 

Well I wouldn't cut the wire, use a posi-tap.

$14 Lockitt POSI-TAP Assortment pack wire connectors 10-22 awg

https://www.amazon.com/Lockitt-POSI-TAP-Assortment-connectors-10-22/dp/B00CMC5DII

 

Just completed the interior AC mod with a 2 inch single AC outlet-2 USB desktop power grommet into the rear of the center console. The wires to and from the inverter are tricky thin. Very carefully stripped the wires' plastic cover on the blue/white with a sharp pocket knife, then twisted in and soldered the outlet wires along about a 1cm section. Added ground terminal as well. Taped up very well and re-assembled. No cutting of the inverter wires for me on the AC interior outlet add.

400w mod also done at same time (cut those per the instructions and used wire nut to add in a separate ground connection wire like the OP). Thanks to OP for the detailed info (read many times to get correct info/confidence up, before and during the mod).

Pulled the trunk and the light went on...

 

Confirmed this is from the 4Runner

 

Just completed this full mod including the 400 any time on my 2020 trd sport works like a charm. I didn't want to cut any holes so i used a cut extention cord through the existing vent holes and i used some t-tap connectors on the output wires so i didn't have to cut those. Thanks for the excellent guide.

 

Has anyone installed one with USB-C?

 

I'm about to. Just got one in the mail today

 

Another one done. Thanks for the great write up. Works like a charm.