Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

One more stupid question: torque the cam bolts to factory spec? Or is there a JD spec?

 

Torque spec on the grade 8 stuff is going to be different than factory. This chart will tell you.

 

Thx man.

 

I like to just ugga dugga the grade 8 on with blue loctite and call it good

Factory bolts get hit with the torque wrench.

 

I ugga dugga all the bolts. But we won’t talk about that.

 

Aren't the factory bolts stamped 10.9???

 

grade 8 is the 10.9 equivalent

 

I’ve never seen any markings or documentation that they’re class 10.9 but I would believe it

 

Shhhhhhh that's my point. Randy gets on me for ugga dugga-ing everything and using the german torque spec. gudentight.

 

I use a torque wrench when there’s a torque spec as determined by some team of engineers way smarter than any of us. Going aftermarket parts with aftermarket bolts is a crapshoot so just let er rip.

 

I bet it could be figured out looking at clamp loads and stuff from the manufacturers of the uniballs and what not.

Oh and the team of engineers that determines torque spec it's not as scientific as you may think most bolt torque is just came up with as a percentage of the yield point of the bolt while still being able to maintain its clamp force and not loosen up unless you're GM then you gotta put red loctite on everything. Torque for your wheel bearings or something that needs a preload it's more of a science.

 

I used a torque wrench on my beadlocks, so I guess I do some things by the books. Though, I do believe it would have been much faster with the 3/8 Milwaukee.

 

I get them 80% of the way with my 1/4” impact (in a criss cross pattern) and then finish off with a torque wrench. First time I did it, I did it all by hand, and it took me half an hour and my hand cramped up. It wasn’t very pleasant.

 

It’s funny watching them change tires at the track. It’s a pretty crude process and I don’t believe I’ve ever seen a torque wrench used. And here we are…

 

I just lived through this whole process for the first time and I can say without a doubt, my process got lazier and lazier into the 4th wheel. They’re all torqued to 13ft/lbs (wet) but the process/speed in which I got to the final torque setting got faster each wheel. My favorite shortcut was just skipping 2 or 3 bolts instead of a full on star criss cross pattern because it’s hard to keep track of which ones you torqued (which I also did with a yellow crayon). Oh and after doing all 4 I realized I should have added spacers next to the .75” thick beads in my particular application so I’m probably going to redo all 4 of them

 

Torque wrench...no, but I'd imagine they have a torque limiter.

 

Idk, I’ve never seen a Milwaukee impact with a torque limiter.

 

It's all custom ordered I still have my IR gun that's set to a specific torque for lugs on the race car and the socket with the spring plunger to eject the old lugs. It's not something you open a catalog up and can buy even at that they may just be turning it down or once they get a feel for the tool know exactly where to stop.

 

What's this star pattern stuff my allieds just had me going around in circles I thought it'd never end. The initial tightening to get all the bolts started I did somewhat of a star pattern.