Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

My KMC's wanted a star pattern. Dont even want to think about how many times I went around them.

 

Yeah idk I don't really think it matters a whole lot

 

I believe it does honestly. Torque sequences and patterns are always in place with reason.

 

Well we got the bypasses, bumps and straps on. Working tear down and paint. Everything fits so tight. It took a lot of cycling to make sure the bumps stayed out of the way for these bypasses. I have to cycle with the tire to make sure the tire stays off the bypass resi. I had my doubts about its position after the fact the next day. So worst case is I have to move it inwards and rotate the fittings.

Just needs a bumper and inner fender well hacks and I can go start testing it out.

@81Trekker I drove @Airdog truck and I love that steering pump!

 

Fitting 3.0’s with all the goodies is fun

And yes, I can’t believe every Tacoma doesn’t have a pump kit... I’d do whatever it takes to get one, well almost anything

 

So bad ass! And yes, the pump is a game changer!

 

When adding the double shear, you have to drill out the tie rod hole correct?

 

Yes.

 

Yes. Use a reamer though or you will hate your life.

 

Yes, a reamer makes quick work of it. It's also been mentioned that it's easier to do on a virgin spindle vs one that's already been welded on.

$44 Accusize Industrial Tools H.S.S. Spiral Flute Aligning Reamer, 5/8'' Cutting Diameter, 1/2'' Shank Diameter, 0522-0058

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0771SH4P6?ie=UTF8

 

Whats the chances of breaking one on some tough wheeling lol? Like my real question is should i invest in a spare set since i cant go to and auto parts store if i were to break one.

 

You're not going to break the double shear as long as it's properly welded and the heims aren't neglected, I promise you that. Other parts of the steering, no promises.

 

Here's the pic I was looking for.

 

If you break one, you wont be driving the truck home even with a spare because you done messed up bad. But having spare stuff on the shelf never hurts.

 

After helping (mostly watching him and @Yotamac ) on Ronnie’s. I’m glad I ordered 2.5’s now. That shit is tight and time consuming as hell.

 

You've seen me wheel I had the double shear on it. I've got a lot more confidence in not needing a spare or being down on the trail with it vs stock stuff.

 

well that makes me feel good lol.

 

Sorry to stir the pot and not reply for a few days... kind of...lol The stir the pot part was very intentional. I have a very strong belief that a ton of the shit we all do to our trucks and a big percentage of the products made for our trucks are " Band-Aids " that don't address the root causes of issues. In regard to this topic I have become a big proponent of the fact that our frames are extremely weak and need to be dealt with and yes not everyone is going to cage their DD but you can still achieve a lot by simply boxing the frame and adding some stronger cross members & additional bracing. Someone mentioned that they didn't think the frame moves that much all the way up there ...sorry but that is total bull I've seen the 1/2 gap from bumper to grill / bumper to fender open and close as the truck twists even during simple trail running.

Everything everyone mentioned plays a part it is all cumulative...but I guarantee you that if you move your battery to the back & just reinforce your core support - it is still going to blow back apart it will just move the stresses to the next weakest point.

If you own a GoPro attach that lil' fkr to your front bumper and go flex over some mild stuff, then attach it to the front of your bed aimed at the gap from your cab to the bed and be prepared to be shocked...our frames are total and complete garbage...period. So, if the foundation your building on top of is garbage shouldn't you put some focus on doing what you can there first ?

 

The center section needs boxed too not just the rear.