TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

There have been times that I have said that I can swap an engine in and out of my truck in a day. Which I have done. The secret to that had been that I have been in there sooo many times, that anything that slows the process, has been changed or removed to expedite the process. Rather than looking prestine, it has become the necessity of function.

When I recently did an engine swap on the race truck that I was working on, it took much longer than anticipated. All of the harness clips, gussets, and frame additions. I had to remove the driver side header studs, to remove the JBA header,, just to pull the engine.

Reminded me how much I had transformed mine for that process compared to OEM standard.

Ultimately, I feel your struggles.

 

Thanks Torspd, I took my 170 in to Oreilly and NAPA and they could not find a match.

 

How drastic would the effect be if your timing chain was off? Would it run really bad off the get go and throw codes or feel normal during light driving?

 

Yes and it would throw a code.

 

Got the engine out. Also had a little surprise sitting on the front diff under the engine

 

Ahh, truck nuts. Smaller than we normally see around here.

 

when we were jacking the engine up, i was like wait, is that a peanut, and the guy helping me was like yep, sure is.

dunno how the hell that got there.

 

Anyone have pics of their installed solid offroad trans and engine mounts? We’re you able to install the engine mounts without pull a bunch of crap out? Trans is easy enough but feels like it’s missing a couple washers and wanted to confirm. I Hit up bonzen but it’s the weekend and all figure the boosted folks should have something for me. May check LT section

 

@nudavinci64

I think your solid mounts have a poly pivot like my dirt designs one. Just the starter had to unbolted since it was in the way of the driverside mount bolt on one corner. Also the harness for the alternator may need to be moved away from the stock mount. Passenger side is much more straight forward. Either side: Tighten the poly bushings 3/4 of the way and fit the mounts in the bay. Then get the bolts and nuts snugged up. After you tighten the mount bolts, then tighten the center bolts for the poly bushings.

 

rodents. we have roof rats here. scourge of the neighborhood.

 

I literally have no photos of my install. It's hard to get the photos once they are totally installed and everything is back in place.

 

one thing i learned more on this engine removal compared to last time, is how much real-estate the alternator and ac compressor take up. i hadnt planned to removed the alternator until the engine was out, but man, it made things way easier once i removed it and pushed the ac compressor out of the way. i was able to get the header out and engine out with out disconnecting the steering shaft so i was happy about that. i hate trying to move that damn spline slip joint. also, the stock engine mounts are damn wet noodles when u dont have the transmission hooked up to the engine.

 

Agreed. As you can see the alt, ac compressor, and power steering were not in place so less things to get in the way of the shot.

This. Taking the alternator and compressor off now a few times, it's much easier to (re)move them then fight with them if they're in the way.

 

thanks trying to see if I can get to them without pulling everything out to do it. I've been told it can happen but like you said not a lot of room with all that crap in there.

 

Oh yeah, they are large pieces of junk on these trucks. I don't understand how they managed to make them that bulky and that ineffective. Especially the AC compressor.

Oh yeah, you can definitely do it, but you will find things will be much easier without them in place rather than with them on unfortunately. I did my engine mount install with the compressor on. It sucked, but I got it done and I said I am never touching that crap ever again.

 

def makes sense. pain to pull the AC and other stuff? Just never pulled it but need to swap the engine mounts over the next week or two.

 

It's not horrible, but you would have to remove the AC hard line and that is a problem within itself because of the fact you have to evacuate then refill so it's your call how you want to do it.

 

ah yah not looking forward to that. If I can do it without removing ill likely do that. A pain but I got time. What has to be moved or removed (not just nice to have but musts).

Only note so far is the diff likely needs to unbolted so it can drop a few inches but that's all I have gotten so far.

 

i didnt disconnect any lines from the compressor when i moved it. just unbolted from the mount points in the front and moved the compressor out the way