Tractors, Mowers, Chippers, Trailers, Chainsaws, Generators, Boat Engines, & Flood Control.

He ran it against his phone timer… found his tractor meter is off ….

 

I'd start simple and make sure the alternator is actually putting out 14ish volts. Less than 12volts, the hour meter could read slow?

Diesels don't need a charging system once running, correct?

 

I didn’t see that, but is the tach/hour meter cable driven off the engine or is it electronic ? And even being electronic it could still vary with RPM

Not really, my tractor the fuel cut is powered when key on, but it’s very little draw. When I converted my B2400 from a dynamo to a Denso alternator (Toyota forklift core) I ran almost a year total loss before I actually wire the alternator into the tractor, not once did it leave me or not start, surprised the hell out of me. Only time I’ve had issue is when the fuel cut solenoid on injection pump shorted and blew 5a fuse.

there are some machines that once running are not dependent on electrical, IF they have a electric shut off it’s on a timer, kill the power, timer actuates a solenoid that cuts fuel, stays energized for 60ish seconds. Others just use a manual fuel kill with a lever.

 

Double axle with brakes on both. It is surprisingly easy to run out of trailer capacity once you get doing things.

Most single axle jobs are rated 2999 gross as 3000 is the start of the electric brake requirement in many states.

A solid deck 18' car trailer is useful for all sorts of things, 20 ft metal roofing for example, with stake pockets you can fab up some removable sides and do even more.

BTW: You can fit a lot of furniture on a car trailer, it is best if you don't mention having one to your friends...

 

Aluma makes a nice 6x14 heavy tilt trailer single axle 5200lb. The trailer can haul max weight of 4000lbs.

 

Put the kubota to work today, hauling a prize load and burying the finds

 

How many shots did ya fire at it ?

 

Update: it’s awesome.

 

I did some 3205 reassembly but left the body off. Got the hitch, bumper, and rear wheel beads seated and new valvestems pulled in and put them on the tractor. Hooked up the brush hog and knocked down 2 acres of 3ft tall fescue.

Found an interesting stick on the first pass and wonder if it has any value. Y'all think it's worth a buck?

 

They're usually over a buck

 

I’m thinking something was wrong with this hog, as I was cutting the grass it didn’t move away from me, I was able to go grab my 9mm and plink him from about 10’ away. I’ve hit these bastards with a .22 before and seen them keep going, the 9 made quick work for a single shot!

 

.22’s seem to bounce off of them

 

Nice!

 

Not sure what's being talked about here.

I just know Beer nuts are a buck and a half and deer nuts are under a buck...

 

But looks to be half off.

 

LOL. Just “retired” one after 16 years. Good first 9-10 years. The last 5-6 years have been more problematic (YMMV). Looks like the same 24 HP V-twin Briggs motor. Mowing 1 acre. Changed the oil twice a year.

• There is a design issue with the valve guides. There are steel valve guide inserts in the aluminum head. The valve guides work loose and come out of the head. When this happens it interferes with the rockers and so destroy the push rods. Briggs & Stratton says you’re running it too hot, not our problem. So its my issue? This is the way the mower came, the mower is not modified. Looked up the issue on the internet and its fairly common. A lot of people replace the heads. I knurled the valve guides (center punch and hammer) and hammered the guides back in the head. This happened for both heads. The last time the fix lasted 2 years.

• The main engine oil seal gave up. A 16 year old motor with about 1000-1250 hours on it. This past year it would leak about cup of oil in a hour. One cylinder was also burning oil. Tried stop leak, couldn’t tell if it made any difference.

• The mower deck blade arbors break off at the pulley. Over the years, replaced 2 of the outside arbors. May have been the same one twice.

• The transmission wore out. In the end of life the machine would backup faster than it would go forward. This past year the trans fluid was replaced twice. It seemed to help. My guess the pump was on its way out.

 

This is the ignition switch, can't find a model specific diagram. I would think connecting the meter to the "run" position rather than the "accessory" position would eliminate the issue.



Might meter them out out of curiosity when I get a chance.

 

You have it backwards. They are in line with the "run" position". System is " hot" in run and "grounded" out at the off position.

I was thinking about this earlier. The easiest way to ensure that the meter can't spin is to isolate the electrical system with a battery isolater...which I think would be a good thing anyways.

I still get edgy charging a battery in the mower in the shop over night. I've heard of too many fires happening from faulty chargers or batteries.