What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Any tips on how to prevent it from falling in the engine? I imagine you could shove a rag inside so it doesn’t fall in and pick around the rag?

 

I used what looks like a metal dental pick with a 90 degree angle.

 

@turbodb has a writeup here...

https://adventuretaco.com/guide/replacing-the-pcv-valve-on-a-5vzfe-tacoma-4runner/

 

Finally fixed the relentless squeaking of my clutch pedal. After greasing everything that could possibly move it had done exactly 0 to fix the problem. I noticed the linkage to the clutch could shift a little bit where it attached to the pedal and it turns out it only squeaked when pushed to one side. Threw a greased 5/16's washer between the linkage and the left side of the pedal and it appears to have fixed the problem, finally!

 

Dropped the rig off at the shop today for rear u joint, center support bearing, slip yoke grease. Come to pick it up later and they ended up doing all 3 joints… not what I was expecting especially when I saw the total price was over DOUBLE what it was suppose to be. But apparently all 3 joints were toast anyways so that’s why they did what they did. Overall I’m ok with it I guess since its satisfying to know it’s all done but I still would’ve liked a warning call about it cus what if I didn’t have the funds for it? Luckily I did but usually I don’t for this price. Oh well, she does ride smooth again now and the slip yoke clunk you get when you come to a stop is GONE. Smooth stops!! So that’s a huge relief since I’ve been dealing with that for 6 years. I think I’ll drain the tran oil next. Here’s a pic from few weeks ago at Fiesta Island in San Diego.

 

Finally replaced .y entire clutch hydraulic system. Minus the metal lines. Have been having a problem with rubber sediment that will eventually blow out the master cylinder and or the slave cylinder. So i pulled everything and went back to OEM aisin parts. This better fix it, else i may just kill it with ! ! In tired of fuck8n with this clutch

 

New Monroe Coilovers came today (I know, I’m a dumbass. But it’s all I can afford right meow)

Hopefully they’ll last at least a couple years till I can get the 4600’s. No lift and stock wheels + tires so I think they’ll hold up ok.

I’m wondering if I can cleanup my original coils to use when I get the 4600’s since they’re still in decent shape.

 

How have the moog LCA held up?

 

Just bought a set of OEM lower ball joints, and Moog LCA's. Gonna be a fun weekend. Not.

 

Bought a DoggoRamp from Desert Armor. We'll see how it works out.

Bailey went up and down, no problem on the test run.

 

I'm semi interested in this concept. Not quite sure how these guys (125-135lbs each) would do with a blanket on a ladder...

 

Anyone running a Skidrow transfer case skid? I think it should work with my RCI skids, but wanted to confirm a measurement before ordering

 

I run the Skidrow tc skid. It should work, it's only about a foot and a half (?) wide and doesn't go far enough forward to interfere with the IFS skid. I used to run a Budbilt IFS in front of it, which is a big skid. Worked fine

Edit - if you're running a transmission skid too though it might interfere

 

I'm running the rci engine and trans skid, what makes me think the skidrow one will work is that it share the same mounting points to the trans crossmember as the rci one. Based off all the photos I can find they should line up almost perfect. Next time you're under there would you mind measuring center to center of the crossmember mounting holes?

 

Them are some big puppers! Not sure how it would work for them, but the canvas used is pretty thick, surprisingly strong, and is supported by the ladder (which makes a frame work underneath).

Not sure which user it is, but I have seen someone on Insta that uses the DoggoRamp for a Saint Bernard though.

 

I run 4xInnovations IFS and Trans skid with the SkidRow Tcase skid. The only modification I had to make was to the SkidRow skid. I drilled the holes for the transfer case crossmembers out (slightly) so the bolts for the 4xInnovations skid would fit through.

 

Have fun. Before you get too far into everything, you should see what kind of condition your LCA misalignment cam sleeves and bolts are in. I (like a lot of folks) wasn't able to get mine out without cutting. Of course, that means you then need to replace them all, since you can't uncut them.

The parts you'll need are these, and it seems like it's good to have a set of four on hand just in case:

• 4 of Toyota OEM Alignment Cam Sleeve (48409-35050)
• 4 of Toyota OEM Alignment Cam Nut (48452-35020)
• 4 of Toyota OEM Alignment Cam Bolt (90080-11283)

Also, for cutting, this blade (exactly this one, there are several carbide variants that aren't as beefy) that @Speedytech7 recommended was awesome. One blade, all four cams for me.

Lastly, if you want a step-by-step on the process, I took photos of everything as I did mine. Also lists the tools needed, and whatnot. Obviously you'll skip the bushing replacement part and just do "install" right after "removal," since you have new LCAs.

Step-by-Step Lower Control Arm Bushing Replacement on a 1st Gen Tacoma

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I put 75w90 in my t-case, same as what I used to put in my diffs before I regeared. My difs now get 85w140.
I have the redline in my tranny too, but it's not much different than normal gear oil.

 

Same as @betterbuckleup 75w90 goes in my Tcase

 

Yea I had the same experience. Not much difference from when I had 75w90 in there last.