Haltech Stand alone ECU supercharger 3.4, SILVER BULLET TUNE www.snpspeed.com

Make sure Brent gives ya the moon tune haha

 

Thought I would post this info also about the Haltech if you have an automatic transmission.

The Haltech has the ability to be programmed to control the auto transmission.

It does not apply to my setup because I have a 5 speed.

Here is some info below,
Gabe at SNP Speed Innovations who sells these haltech ECUS and makes these harness can do programming for the transmission too

https://support.haltech.com/portal/en/kb/articles/transmission-control

 

They're not Hall effect, but rather variable reluctance sensors that output a voltage sine wave and signal conditioning is done in the ECU.

What's "dirty" about the factory sensors' output? Noise is usually picked up from wiring and poor shielding more than the sensor itself. VR sensors tend to output a weaker signal as the coil resistance increases over time. I can see where that would raise the noise floor and make false triggering more likely and lots of Toyotas end up with high miles.

In the case of a MegaSquirt, noisy sensor lines are partly due to the circuit board itself. I as well as others have found pcb v3.0 to be sensitive to noisy alternators, ignitions, and analog voltage regulators. I had to put some small smoothing capacitors on the board of mine to get rid of spikes on the MAP signal of all things...and that sensor is in the ECU case.

Since PCB v3.0 (~2005) MegaSquirt boards have had a VR conditioning circuit with tuning pots that can handle just about any production VR signal. Earlier boards simply didn't have the circuit and you either had to add one or use something external.

A factory ECU has the luxury of being optimized for a very specific and narrow range of OEM applications whereas standalone ECUs have to play well with nearly every imaginable combination on the market. To what you said, a lot of the the cleanup has to be done by the installer/end user.

 

Did you join TW just to post this? Welcome.

 

Well…..any update on this?

 

Tune was finished yesterday, still working through a few bugs still.

Not at 100 percent and was almost 100 degrees yesterday.

Power is very different now and have to get used to it.

The power comes on immediately as soon as you go into boost AFR goes straight to 12 AFR.
There is no surge of power at 3500 rpms like before.

It now pulls super strong right out of the gate up to redline.

There is a 10-15 hp increase across the total RPM range.

But the most noticeable difference is the new found power in the lower RPM range 1000-3500rpms regardless if in 1st gear or pulling in 4th gear.

Because it was almost 100 degrees when tuned I will wait for a new Dyno in October for the rear wheel hp and after
I get these bugs fixed when temperatures are back down to 60 degrees,
I think there’s a vacuum leak and a check engine light I need to address still

 

No, it's a topic of interest for me. I am also thinking about an RZ swap for a project car and would rather know about special interfacing concerns now instead of after the datalogs are full of erratic trigger events. And thanks and the welcome.

 

This sounds like pretty good news overall.

 

Have to figure out why the scanguage is not reading, could be a canbus issue as stated before and the rpm (needle) not motor stalls at 3k for some reasons, more bugs to figure out

 

Yeah I’d like to know how much timing has changed in that area.

I figured the low end was a tune thing. Really has always just felt anemic.

 

your killing us.... do you atleast have the best driving highest hp supercharged 1st gen taco?

 

Who needs a scan gauge, useless thing anyway, completely archaic. Your Haltech has its own canbus that you can use to plug in their multi gauge or a race pack and get faster data refresh times as well as more PIDs.

 

Did Gabe help you through the install and startup? I hope to have mine delivered soon.

 

So my recommendation for this setup would be this.

1) you will need a bung welded into the exhaust for the haltech 02 sensor. Get a bung bolt to plug
the hole till the install of the haltech 02 sensor or doing Emissions when switching back.
2) you will need a Windows base computer with WiFi and connect to the internet by your phone as a hot spot or SIM card
3) you should have Gabe do a remote startup tune to get the truck running.
A) if there’s a faulty computer file or wire issues etc he will see this including if the crankshaft sensor
is not putting out a strong enough signal because it’s old and worn and he can fix this remotely.
B) you possibly will need a crankshaft sensor 150.00 , I had to order one from the dealership and there were NONE available in my state, ONLY use an OEM crankshafts sensor.
4) if you are using methonal setup make sure it’s all working perfectly, mixture, nozzle,
Your tune will be based off this input. You can have the haltech control the methonal or do a stand alone methonal setup.
5) my sweet spot AFR is 12.2 for the tune from the shop but my gauge reads 11.2.
6) a Dyno tune would be the best option after a remote tune as they would know the correct AFR not guessing if your gauge is not at 100 percent or setup correctly but not really needed.
7)DO NOT run the haltech 02 sensor in the exhaust unless it is connected to the haltech with power. If it’s not powered and in the exhaust it will get destroyed.
This will destroy the 02 sensor.
If you need an emissions you will need to remove this ite.
8) you can leave the stock 02 sensor in place and wires in place with this haltech setup.
A) you can leave the MAF in place and the MAF tube section in place and wires all connected.

What to expect!

9) You will get 10-15 more horse power over the ENTIRE rpm range.
DO NOT expect ALOT more top end power, but you definitely will get more.

10) you will have a very consistent power band and perfect AFR
NO POWER surges because there is no open loop close loop to deal with and no MAF sensor to deal with.

11) your biggest surprise improvement will be the new found power that is immediately noticed from 1000-3500.

12) you will have some hiccups in check engine lights, possibly so have a clearing gauge, my tach gauge is in slow motion at 3k area,
These issues I will see if they can be fixed

13) you will need a 1/4” vacuum “T” to be able to tap into the haltech vacuum line,
THAT COMES DIRECTLY OFF THE SUPERCHARGER

14) I ran all my wires and vacuum line though the main wire harness in the fire wall.

15) I connected the vacuum line off the supercharger BUT the Dyno shop said that location didn’t work
for the haltech, So I’m not sure why or how that specific equation is to be.

16) the speed shop did not have the 3” tube section installed SO I don’t know
if this will add any power or increase

 

That’s odd. If a vacuum line off of the manifold side of the supercharger didn’t work how else would you read vacuum/boost?


And if I understand the AFR thing correctly wideband gauges like we run aren’t really all that accurate. You need a shop to use their expensive equipment to get TRUE AFR. This is what Kenne Bell says. But I was never sure if that was just them trying to sell their kits and tunes.

 

I don’t know, maybe the vacuum line was ok, I don’t know, I tapped off the vacuum line that went to the throttle body and tune shop said that location didn’t work.
I have the innovate gauge so maybe it’s off a little as miles get added on

 

That's because there's no boost between the TB and supercharger. The pressure there only varies between vacuum and atmosphere.

The accuracy of production automotive WBO2 sensors is under 3% of the lambda reading, at least for Bosch. The sin of omission by KB is that AFR readings shouldn't be the primary driver of tuning decisions anyway. It's just a number that is going to be different for every engine. A dyno will go farther toward a good tune than some lab-grade precision oxygen sensor will. The dyno is going to show what the engine likes and the WB is going to show what it thinks the AFR is when the engine is happy. As long as it's repeatable, that is useful information that doesn't have to be accurate.

 

oh no shit. No wonder that vacuum source didn’t work. It has be be AFTER the throttle body, and in our case the rotors. @1997tacomav6 I can’t imagine you were referencing vacuum BEFORE the TB for your boost gauge and water/meth kit were you?

 

I actually wasn’t paying attention when I tapped into the line.
It now is tapped into the brass barb that comes off the supercharger on the top back

 

Please stop it. You are going to make me end up getting one.