Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

I always do alignments (same with every alignment shop under the sun) with the truck at ride height. With it all the way dropped out you’re forcing the CV to plunge at a compound angle along with moving the steering and shock at the same time. There are too many things fighting the alignment cams with the truck dropped out

 

That’s good to know, I assumed it was something like that. I make adjustments with tires off the ground and then check numbers once the suspension is loaded again.

 

Or you could get something like this.https://quicktrickalignment.com/

these guys are right down the road from me.

 

I could also just go buy some cheap cutting boards and stack two on top of each other and then drive on top of it. Maybe I’ll try that next time.


And yes I understand the irony of spending $7k on suspension but cheaping out on an alignment.

 

I want to move into doing my own “good enough” alignments. I mess with my suspension so much that I might as well avoid the miserable time spent at the alignment shop. They installed my cam bolt upside down and bent a tab on the last alignment.

 

Once I conceptualized it and understood the relation between how moving the cams affects caster and camber, it hasn't been difficult to do it myself. Been on these tires for 2 years now and my own alignments and they've been wearing pretty darn evenly and the truck drives fine.

 

good to hear.

 

I wanted to go to ATR and had planned to, but life happened and I still don't have the kit on. I'm actually sitting in a position I may have to sell it...

 

when you load the suspension - after lowering it back down do you drive it fwd and back for a few feet ? when you first lower the truck your tires stick at that narrower track width and your truck has not actually lowered back down all the way. you need to roll it a bit and let the tires scrub and the suspension settle

 

Yeah I go for a drive around the block. Super inefficient but it works for the once or twice a year I tweak my alignment.

 

ok cool, a lot of folks are not aware of that issue and depending on how grippy your floor & tires are it can really make a big difference

 

I bought this for about 230 shipped. It does Camber, Caster and Toe. I made some alignment turn plates out of 18x18 vinyl tile. Works like a champ. Used it on my truck and on @RonRon23 's truck so far with no problem.
Just an FYI...alignment is always done after driving forward...if you ever move backwards...start over.

 

I might have to take a trip up and abuse my clutch that weekend.

 

Got a link?

 

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-spc-parts/off-road-fastrax/91025~scp/

 

we have something very similar to that for our 6100 truck and 10 car, works pretty good. having turn plates is the key

 

Is it only OEM inners required for the 934s or are OEM outers necessary for some reason? Wanting to keep a couple reman outers as spares.

 

I’ve asked this question before and as far as I know, no one has actually tried putting an aftermarket outer on since it’s a lot of effort to separate the axle and not know if it’ll work.

 

Good point. Curious to know the difference in aftermarket vs OEM vs reman. I made stubs out of some old CVs just to plug the holes if something happened on the trail, but it’d be nice to be able to keep riding if the outer broke. Might want to pack it up anyways after fighting with trying to get it off though haha

 

As long as the spline count, shaft diameter and circlip are in the same place then I don't see why it wouldn't work.

I carry two outer stubs to plug the wheel bearing and one inner stub as a diff plug. If I need a second inner stub then I'll just disassemble the 934 out on the trail since it all just unbolts. If I've hit that point, something is seriously fucked up and I'm just in survival mode to get home.