2001 front end popping sound

Still can't get to the bottom of what's causing intermittent popping/clacking sound when I go over speed bumps or sometimes just randomly when turning in my 2001 Tacoma V6 - 4X4. 267,000 miles with Bilstein 5100 and Eibach front coil spring lift.

I just had my front shocks changed. The lower and upper ball joints are under 2 years old.

Changed the driver & passenger side CV axels this year. I even made sure the differential and skid plate were not rubbing.
I suspected my LCA but my mechanic said they look ok. Also my mechanic has said that my tie rods and the rest of my suspension looks good so it puzzles me and maybe he missed something.

The issue really bothers me because it hasn't always been there and has only started in the last month or so.

I ran across this post in the 3rd generation forum. The original OP of that post mentioned it was a bolt rubbing on his coil overs. I don't think that is my problem, I've looked.

But someone mentioned looking for an under torqued cam bolt also someone mentioned to check the alignment bolts. I did have an alignment very recently. Maybe they didn't tighten everything up right to specs.



I know 3rd and 1st generation Tacoma's have different front end suspension components.

Are there cam bolts on my truck or alignment bolts that could correspond to my trucks that I could check if they are under torqued. Also any other suggestions would be helpful.


It started recently and makes me wonder if it could be something loose.

Thank you for any input or suggestions

-Prerunnersd

 

Yes, 1st gen (6lug prerunner and 4wd) trucks have cam bolts on the LCA:


The rear one is really tough to get to- you need a crows foot wrench to get onto it. This usually means that most alignment shops won't mess with the camber/caster if it's close- they'll adjust the toe and move on.

you can make some match marks on them, and next time you hear the poping sound see if they have moved from the match marks.

 

Thanks for the specs and blowout I’m gonna have the alignment checked again tomorrow do you think I should suggest they take off the skid plate to get to the lower control arm bolts? Would that even help?


I’m not even sure if the alignment shop I took it you did that so I will definitely mention it.

thanks

 

You might try removing your sway bar end links to see if you can rule them out as the cause. They have given me front end popping sounds in the past when not fully tightened down.

 

May I suggest that you raise the front wheel off of the ground and check for free play side to side and up and down ect?

 

Thay sounds like something I can try. if I remove them isn’t that the opposite of tightening? How do I do this?

 

It's been 18 years since I've had a stock skid plate, so I don't recall if the skid plate prevents easy access to the cam bolts.

The access issue stems from the steering rack on the back preventing you from getting a socket on the cam bolt.

I'm with the others- try a few more things before just throwing another alignment at it.

 

I tried that and even took a video but I couldn’t really see anything that had too much play I’m gonna mention that to the alignment shop as well.

 

removing the end links eliminates them as a source of the pop.

 

oh I see I guess I’ll try to find a write up on how to do that good suggestion

 

The removal would just be temporary to see if they are causing the issue. You could also just crank them down real good and see if any of them were loose. They are kind of a pain to deal with and tighten down correctly. The OEM ones have a hex key that you have to hold while using a wrench (14mm?) to loosen. Mine were all rusted so I replaced them with Moogs, with those you have to fit a narrow wrench behind to hold the bolt part in place while you tighten down the nut.

 

On a level surface (so there is no tension on the bar) remove the two nuts. I believe they are 17mm



If they are rusted then spray them with some pb blaster before trying to remove them. And yeah, you may have to get in there with an hex / Allen key, but I've never had an issue with that.

 

These blowouts are awesome, where do you get them?? Btw do you know where I can get the torque specs for my 2001 Tacoma 4X4 model. Perhaps having those specs for the alignment will help the technician. The only reason I am looking to have an alignment is because it was recently aligned, which may have caused the issue and also I have a life-time alignment with Firestone Complete Auto care. So if I go to a different location it puts another set of eyes on the problem with no real extra money out of my pocket also with a good chance of success.

Driving it today it definitely seems like it occurs more when I am making a left turn, not really a right. Its a single popping/clicking sound that you can also feel as simultaneous single vibration through the floor board underfoot. I don't think it means its happening right below my feet but it is a good clue.

 

there are inner tie rod ball joints on the steering rack. These are often overlooked as they are hidden behind the boot.

 

Thanks, Could it be the lift itself and this being more trouble than its worth? I've had it in for ten years but I am considering taking it out. Seems like its changed the whole geometry of the vehicle and its caused weird quirks like this. I also don't ever like how it handles on turns. Lets be real, its changes the whole center of gravity.
It being 2.5 inches taller is literally no advantage to me. (ranting)

 

Another thing to take into consideration…. I speak from personal experience. I rebuilt my front end top to bottom. Reused the cam bolts after installing new bushings, they were in great shape, coated with anti seize, until I carried it to the alignment shop.
Our cam bolts are different than conventional cam bolts. To adjust the factory cam bolts, you first have to break the BOLT loose, then turn the nut to make the adjustment, then lock it down by tightening the bolt, holding the nut stationary.

Conventional, parts shelf, most common, USA made cam bolts work the exact opposite. To adjust, you break the NUT loose, and turn the bolt to adjust, then lock the nut down holding the bolt stationary.



Seems like simple information that an ALIGNMENT SHOP should be damn aware of, but not always. Some alignment machines show the tech how to make the adjustment on the computer screen, some don’t.
Unfortunately in my case, the alignment shop I chose was not aware of this and screwed my cam bolts up trying to turn the nut to break the mechanism loose. They returned the truck to me saying that they finally got it into adjustment, but my cam bolts were going to need to be replaced next time, and the tabs that direct the cams were bent flat, needing to be bent back, and welded.
I had a pop every now and then as well and decided to take a closer look at the lower control arms.
I immediately put 2 and 2 together after removing the skid plates and looking at my completely screwed up cam bolts.
I ended up having to replace the cam bolts with conventional bolts, and installed new lca bushings…again, and bent and welded the cam tabs back in place. All of this work should have been the alignment shop’s responsibility, but it was my word against theirs. Plus I had waited a few months to look at it closer trying to find the popping sound.
I should have known something was up when I got my truck back, and they said it was very hard to get it aligned. I had everything apart just the day before, and nothing was stuck or bent. I’m just glad I finally got to the bottom of it.

 

Today I took my truck into Firestone Complete Auto Care in Ventura, California. We took my truck for a test drive and I was able to recreate the popping sound issue for the mechanic. Seems like indeed it happens on left hand turns.

The mechanic inspected the truck underneath and noticed some play in the driver side inner tie rod. I took a video of his recommendation. I definitely see some play too. He also noticed grease on my rack and pinion and recommend I get it steam cleaned to see if its leaking. In this case would it be leaking power steering fluid? My power steering reserve seems OK and stable. I do need a new head gasket so it could just be engine oil.
What do you think of the play in the video?





If this is the cause of the popping/clicking sound its amazing that a few other mechanics before did not spot this.

 

Yes, it’s amazing that anyone would miss that. Most alignment shops check for play in all of your front end components and simply refuse to align the vehicle until the play is repaired by someone, if not them. I’d definitely start there to find your noise, it needs to be replaced regardless if it is your noise or not, your toe adjustment will never stay in spec with that play in there. Unfortunately as a general rule of thumb, whatever you replace on one side, you also should replace on the other side.

As far as the leak, oil, dirtiness of the components….it’s hard to tell. Nothing looks “wet” in the video. Your steering rack is on the bottom, so anything above it could be the cause of this. It’s normal for some components to get dirty like this. The front differential drive shaft is right above it, and you could be looking at the results of years of lubing the u-joint, then the drive shaft slinging the excess grease off of it when it spins. That would be considered normal.

Off subject a little what’s the difference in a seep, and a leak? Ford Motor Company defines a seep as general moistness/dirtiness around a seal or component. It becomes a leak ONLY when a drop forms. Ford Motor Company does not fix seeps under warranty, only leaks……True story!

You’d know if your power steering was leaking, it doesn’t hold much fluid and will stop working, and the pump will make a lot of noise when the fluid gets too low.

At the minimum I would replace both inner tie rod ends, and the power steering boots. Then have the vehicle realigned.

I’d give the outer tie rod ends a good inspection and consider replacing those as well.

 

like I said, inner tie rod...

 

Thanks for the info I am on the Camelback toyota parts website (they tend to have the best prices around)
Now to find all the correct part numbers, LOL. Would you for sure go OEM? The prices don't seem that bad for these parts

Looking to order them ASAP as the popping is getting worse.
Camelback Toyota lets you put in your vehicle (2001 Tacoma) on the site to locate parts for your truck.

But there are many results for my truck's inner tie rods. Sorry for the dumb questions but:

Are steering tie rod ends the same as regular tie rods? The site has some listed as "tie rod ends" and others as "steering tie rod ends"

Also is a tie rod end just another name for outer tie rod as opposed to the "inner tie rod"

And are the power steering boots also called "Rack and Pinion Bellows"? because they have two types of boots listed. One as Rack and Pinnion Bellows and another called "tie rod boots"

-prerunnersd