2001 Tacoma Xtended cab 4WD SR5 build

Opening this thread to document my build of a new (to me) 2001 Xtended Cab 4WD SR5, but mostly to ask the inevitable questions that will come up.

EDIT for background, and road map (8/18/21):
My goals with this build is have a dual-purpose truck. The majority of driving will be in the city and on paved roads, move various things, get some steel, do Home Depot runs, haul bicycles when the Mrs and I go riding. But am also intrigued by off-roading. Have gone to Kenya earlier this year, and was very impressed by the safari car culture, specifically the great African 4x4 Land Cruiser experience. The safari changed me, and am definitely interested in off-roading now as a result. Because we can't have those sweet series 79 Land Cruisers stateside, I decided to build my own approximation, for which the 1st Gen Tacoma is the perfect platform. I had a 2001 but was only 2W and single cab. So I found on Craigslist a 2001 Xtended cab 4WD SR5 manual w/ 119K miles, a clean CO and AZ car and picked it up. Sold my prior Tacoma (clean, well-maintained, and well-sorted) for more than I paid for it, despite not driving a hard bargain (buyer was a kid who came with his mom, and l let him "negotiate me").

The "new" Tacoma needed a few maintenance items based on the prepurchase inspection (timing belt, main carrier bearing, new steering rack). The driver side seat belt was shredded and sticky, the seat bottom plastic cover was cracked (a common design fault in this gen seats), so I will replace those myself with original Toyota components (on order).

Overall goal: stock-looking, or as close to the the stock look as possible.

Functionality goals to start:

• modern head unit
  
• new, quality speakers
• sound insulation
• onboard compressor (plus-minus 1 gal tank)
  
• bed sprayed with line-X
  
• air lockers (ARB)
  
• CB radio (have already purchased a
  $67 Uniden PRO520XL Pro Series 40-Channel CB Radio. Compact Design. ANL Switch and PA/CB Switch. 7 Watts of Audio Output and Instant Emergency Channel 9. - Black
  Uniden PRO520XL Pro Series 40-Channel CB Radio)
  
• ham radio, maybe (looking at the Kenwood 710GA)
  
• second battery (Northstar; need to understand switching, relays, etc)
  
• fridge/freezer (ARB)
  
• rooftop tent with awning or vestibule
  
• in-bed storage/organization (I can probably make that)
  
• shower
• recovery system: winch, recovery points, shovel, tall jack, traction pads.

All the camping/recovery stuff has to be easily removable so I can use the bed in its stock configuration in town between off-road trips.

As for the lift, I am undecided (discussed here). The truck did come with some lift, and I decided to leave it now as is, until I learn more about what I need, and what I want. I am definitely not interested in rock crawling, but want to be able to ford a stream, and negotiate a forest road. I am literally ignorant and inexperienced, so will need to take some time, and experience some intro-level trails to start with. In Africa, I saw a ton of very competent overlanding rigs IN ACTION, and they didn't have the crazy lifts you see in most shopping mall parking lots stateside (or at most had some minor, subtle lifts to accommodate the extra weight of build-up). Will see where the proverbial "the travel changes the traveler" takes me.

 

First, I just got an ARB Twin compressor (plan to add lockers), but cannot tell if I received the right product or not, specifically is my unit 24V or 12 V. I need 12 of course, but cannot find any indication on the unit of what it is. There is a sticker stating "ARB No 21044990" which does not come up on the Arbusa.com website. The carton does say in the

$592 CKMTA12 '12V' On-Board Twin High Performance Air Compressor, Ideal for Air Lockers Locking Differentials, Tire Inflator, Air Horn, Air Tools and Pneumatic Tools.

CKMTA12 but how can I register the unit if I cannot find it's serial number?

Any advice/opinion greatly appreciated.

Here are some pics of the compressor. The carton is really beat up.

 

Looks like in the nomenclature it’s 12 V m#

$592 ckmta12 '12V' on-board twin high performance air compressor, ideal for air lockers locking differentials, tire inflator, air horn, air tools and pneumatic tools.

ckmta12

 

Thank you.

Isn’t it strange that it doesn’t have a factory sticker with model number, serial, etc?

 

@koenbro The model number is right under the SKU on the box you should have a serial number on a stamped plate on the unit somewhere

 

Today I started the soundproofing project, with the passenger side. Will also replace the factory speakers (20 years old!) with some Focals. Also the carpet has arrived. The previous owner had long haired dogs and despite diligent cleaning there was still hair everywhere. Plus the old carpet was worn and thin, and I ordered carpet with mass backing to add to the sound insulation. I had to improvise a bit for the Focal tweeters, as I did not want to show the factory screen.

 

Today I had the bed sprayed with Line-X.

 

Also finished the right door then tackled the driver’s door, which went MUCH faster. After lining the outer wall with Dynamat plus foam, did the same with the inner wall. Also replaced the speakers.

 

Finally I went to the dealership and picked up a new driver’s safety belt.

 

Today I removed the back panel, side panels, and ripped the carpet out. I even removed the sheet metal shelves that support the rear seats. Cleaned it all out. For a 20 year-old, this truck is super CLEAN. Then I proceeeded to lay Dynamat and Noico everywhere. Finally I laid foam on the back panel.

 

You're Hired. Nice job, So Far.

 

Nice job.
Been reading about soundproofing lately.
How was it removing the interior for this?
Did you do take out the headliner and do the roof as well?

 

Thanks

Removing the interior was quite easy following various writeups from TW and elsewhere. Covering everything was quite time consuming because of the contoured surfaces, and the need to reveal screw holes and wire access grommets. Lots of measuring, matching, cutting.

I dreaded removing the headliner, because I have never done it on any car, and was convinced I will not be able to put it back the same way, thinkning it's soft and needs tensioning somehow. As I finished the floor and walls, I had a few sheets of Dynamat/Noico left and realized I don't want to store them, plus I will never do this project again; wanting to do the definitive job, I dropped the headliner. Much to my surprise, it was easy -- it is one-piece, molded and fairly rigid. Under it there was a 1/2 in thick sheet of felt, that was easy to separate in one piece, as the glue strips were dried out.

So I covered the roof also, then reattached the felt, and put the headliner back. In the end, I am glad I did it.

The whole project started as a speaker and HU upgrade. But once you remove all the trim to reach the speakers, it's easy to add the sound backing. For the HU I went with the

ATOTO S8 Ultra Double Din Car Stereo, 7" Android in-Dash Navigation, Wireless CarPlay & Android Auto, Dual BT w/aptX HD, Gesture Operation, VSV&LRV, Built-in 4G Cellular Modem, 4G+64G, S8G2A78UL-N

ATOTO S8 Gen 2 Ultra which is OK, but not great. Speakers are Focals: ISU 130 in the front, ICU 570 in the back. After I finished everything, I fired up the system, and it is sublime.

On the road, the cabin feels more civilized (the placebo effect is strong!), and while it's not a Lexus, I enjoy it, and am glad I did it.

The one disappointment is the new carpet, from https://www.factoryinteriors.com/. You get one large, undifferentiated carpet with contours for the transmission tunnel and transverse rib for the seat. However, the OEM carpet has a ton of cutouts, for the transmission, front center console, attachment for the console between the seats, various screw holes, seat belts, rear storage compartment, etc. So you sign up for a major crafts project, and I doubt very strongly I can do a professional job; and sure as hell, am not interested in looking at a hack job. I tried to cut out the transmission and the console which are the obligatory minimum to even lay the carpet in the truck. Major pain. So after trying to fit it in, have put the old carpet back, and am in a conundrum: I will try to find a local shop that might be able to put it in, and if I can't, will just abandon the carpet upgrade.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to tackle the carpet upgrade? I most definitely do not want to cut it and fit it myself.

 

Some pics from today. Have even covered the rear storage compartment/ rear seat support shelf:


This is the first layer to the roof:


And this is the foam:


The head liner was easily removed and replaced.




Rear speaker:

 

Well done, sir.
I have a 2000 access cab that I am planning on doing this to.
Currently out of town for work, will tackle it when I get home.
I hear you on the placebo effect, but glad to hear it is a solid improvement.

 

I just new carpet but haven't put it in yet. I don't have the old 1. I used mat66 from Amazon to sound deadening for mine n it's quiet down the cab alot. My suggestion for the new carpet would be to lay the old 1 on top of the new carpet and use as a template for cutouts

 

Have used tricot tape to wrap the speaker wires and the wires I brought up from the head unit to the top of the windshield (GPS and 4G).

All i have left (for this stage of the build, that is) is to install the rear view camera.

Next will add the CB radio, and finish with the dash (add some padding etc — although I already admit, and accept defeat in the war on rattles).

 

Does anyone know of a good installer for ARB airlocks in the Phoenix, AZ metro area?

How much should a rear+front locker (parts and install) cost? I already have the compressor.