1st gen carbon build up in intake, why and how to clean.

Thank you! I will get oem, if i don't run the truck and disassemble the intake manifold immediately would I still be able to reuse the metal gaskets to the heads? They were just really expensive from Toyota id hate to take a loss like that. And the truck was driven in a tiny town less than 5 miles long, he used valvoline the whole life of the truck. He bought it new from the dealer. Ill probably go that route you were talking about with a detergent and see if that helps.

 

Yes, your ok to reuse them

 

Thank you!

 

That most likely is the reason your intake looks ugly short trips and never really warmed up.

 

Thats why i mentioned it, figured that could be a good reason.

 

I’ve learned the hard way too. Anything sensor/electrical related OEM is your best bet. Sorry you gotta take it all apart again. How does the harness look? Might be worth changing that as well.

Edit: My bad I saw that you did replace the harness. Where did you get the harness from?

 

Thanks, yea its a tough break on that one. I bought a new oem harness from the dealer along with all the gaskets. Only thing i didnt was the sensors, i dont know why i didnt just go oem in the first place. At least i can get my money back.

 

The best way to remove built up carbon is reassembling the engine and get it running . Now get an atomizer spray bottle and fill with water , next remove air intake hose from the throttle body . Next start engine and hold the throttle open at above 1500rpm and spray water into the throttle body . If the engine starts stumbling stop spraying water and let the engine recover . Once the idle cleans up continue spraying water into the throttle body until you've used a half of the water in the spray bottle if you notice you're seeing smoke from your exhaust that is carbon from your engine being blown out

What you're doing with the spay bottle is steam cleaning the intake , intake ports , combustion chamber and top of the piston

 

I would think that’s takes a LOT of separate applications for extended time periods and doesn’t clean it with a few applications tho.
Mine are perfectly clean but that’s because the methonal water system has cleaned it and that took 5000 miles before they were this clean

 

Yes it'll take a few applications but it's well worth it !!

A friend of mine runs pure methanol race fuel in his street / strip toy and I've seen how clean the pistons and cyl heads are . They look brand new !!!

 

Yup, mine look newer with methonal water, no carbon or gummy yuck

 

rev it really high for 60 secs

 

GTI = DI depending on year though, and catch cans aren't perfect. They recommend walnut blasting every so often and no catch cans on my mk7. Supposedly the VW PCV system is that good on them.

Wouldn't driving it hard force more oil through to the intake via higher crankcase pressure?

 

My specific GTI mkv was di as most fsi and tsi motors are so yes you are correct.

My theory is “blow by” is gonna happen regardless of wot or not because of your pcv valve/crankcase pressure. The only thing keeping the intake area clean in a port injection motor is injectors/fuel and air. What happens when you open the throttle? You allow more air and fuel to be mixed which I assume would burn off carbon deposits better. Along with running quality fuel and just taking care of your engine.

 

Perhaps post-injector, yes

 

I'm curious why noone suggested seafoam? I've used it in the past with good results.

 

I did

 

Cuz it would take like 4 cans of this stuff in concentrate to do anything? Fuel itself is a better solution.

 

Sorry to keep stacking questions on this post but I really appreciate your guys's help. That being said back to the knock sensors I called the dealership because the AutoZone ones I install did not work. The AutoZone knock sensors cost me a hundred twenty altogether and the dealership wants 600 plus dollars for both of them. I think thats ridiculous, and i just spent a bunch on gaskets, valve cover set, spark plugs, oil, etc. So another 600$ is not what id like to pay. Anyone at all have any luck with anything cheaper than the dealer? I know oem is best but god damn that price is ridiculous. And how do i know which brand i should get? Dealer said there is denso and some other brand? *edit* i called advanced auto and they have the matsu brand for 160 instead of 300$ from the dealer but not sure if my truck is denso or matsu brand, how do i know?

 

Did you at least get the part numbers from your dealer? If not, call back and get them, or use parts.toyota.com with your VIN number to find the part numbers. Once you find the Toyota part numbers (I only trust part numbers from parts.toyota.com, as I have found some inconsistency between the Toyota (company) page, and the Toyota dealer pages), start searching the individual dealer pages / online warehouses (Toyota parts deal) and find the cheapest online price you can stomach. Then order... you might spend a few extra bucks on shipping, but I bet it'll be cheaper than calling / walking into your local dealer.

Edit: but ultimately, most people have found when it comes to sensors, OEM is the only way to go, and sometimes that means paying the man.