Rear Wheel Bearing Part Number?

I've spent a few hours searching old posts, and I'm coming up short. I am seeking the part number for just the bearings needed in the rear axle of a 2010 Tacoma. I can do all the press work myself, so I don't need to buy a complete assembly. I would love to buy just the bearings, but I am unable to find a part number for just that. Can anybody here provide that information? Thanks.

Charlie

 

I did my best to help you here.
While I’m not 100% certain, I’m pretty confident these parts should work. (In the links below)
Toyota and the link below both match.
Bottom of 1st post here - https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2nd-gen-rear-axle-bearing-diy.246760/

I’ll tag @maxamillion2345 to get his input here.


Toyota list this at the part.

The picture here and in the link above to the DIY both match.
As well, according to Toyota, the parts are the same for all 4WD Trucks.
(This is why I feel confident that the parts are the same)

Part# on the bearing looks to be 2DACF044N-4

 

Thanks for the info. This has really helped, as the videos I've seen so far have not been 100% relevant to the 2nd generation Tacoma. I'm almost 100% sure of what I need, and in the next day or two I will get my parts ordered and buy a press. I'll do my best to report back on my success.

 

@6 gearT444E has some experience.

He just posted this today.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/cost-to-replace-rear-wheel-bearing.701573/page-2#post-26146074

 

That's what I'm looking to accomplish this weekend. Lucky for me my son will be in town to help.

 

Not sure what parts you'd like but they are a unit bearing so I don't think you can purchase the bearings separate from the housing or even if you can it would be a bear to get everything lined up. What I did was get each side through Rock Auto. I got Timken assemblies which use Koyo bearings. Below are the PNs of the bearing assemblies I used. If you want the stamp number on the OE race of the bearing, I just went out and took a picture, it's a long number (2dacf044n-4) which are also Koyo bearings. Searching that number yields the whole bearing assembly. Let me know if you need any more PNs I was planning on doing a writeup with all the parts I used.

TIMKEN 512295 Bearing (RH side aka passenger)
TIMKEN 512294 Bearing (LH side aka driver)

 

Correct, use those part numbers to source unit bearings. They are side specific. Could probably get away with reusing press on sleeves and snap rings but theyre relatively cheap from toyota.


TIMKEN 512295 Bearing (RH side aka passenger)
TIMKEN 512294 Bearing (LH side aka driver)

 

Thanks for responding and helping.

 

Today was an adventure, culminating with the successful replacement of a wheel bearing assembly on the left rear axle of my 2010 double cab 4x4 Tacoma. I bought a 20 ton press from Harbor Freight to do the hard parts, and aside from having to open up one hole in the base of the jack to get the mounting screw in it works as advertised. If I was starting some kind of business and money was tight it would suffice for a while, but for work in my garage I think it will last a lifetime. I also bought this bearing puller/installation tool from a guy named Duane on ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/193153143122, and while I didn't need everything that came in the kit the parts I did need performed flawlessly. The only thing I discovered wasn't perfect is the instructions said I needed 7/16" or 12mm bolts and nuts to pull the bearings, but those were too big and I ended up buying 3/8" bolts and nuts. I discovered I needed them to be 3-1/2" long, and the first hardware store I went to only had one grade 8 socket head cap screw that long. From there I went to Home Depot, where the only thing they had that was long enough was crappy galvanized carriage bolts. I got by with what I had, but it wasn't pretty. The washers I was able to get were very deformed when I was done, and the carriage bolt threads were not pristine. If I had time to plan, I would have purchased something like these screws https://www.mcmaster.com/92620A638/, these nuts https://www.mcmaster.com/91094A114/ and these washers https://www.mcmaster.com/98029A046/ .
Before starting I read this thread https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2nd-gen-rear-axle-bearing-diy.246760/, which was helpful. I did experience some differences, though. I did not need to cut the spacer ring off the axle before pressing the bearing assembly off. I'm glad I didn't because as a picture farther down shows it was recessed into the assembly after everything was pressed together at the factory. The fluid that I drained out of the rear differential looked to be about 1 week old, and I have almost 160,000 miles on my truck. Here's what the magnetic drain plug looked like.

There was one little chunk stuck to the magnet under the steel dust, but it looked like a machining chip that was hiding inside the housing after manufacturing. I'm very happy with how things looked there.
The screws that were used to mount the jack to the 20 ton press were just right for brake drum removal.


I did have to disassemble the brakes because the parking brake cable has to be disconnected inside the brake shoe assembly, and it reinforced why I dislike drum brakes. Once the parking brake cable, brake line and ABS sensor were disconnected I was able to remove the four nuts from the end of the differential housing and pull the axle out. Once it was out I spun the bearing assembly and could immediately tell why it was making noise when I drove. I drove the four mounting bolts out, removed the snap ring with these handy pliers

$28 Proto J250G Proto 9" Lock Ring Horseshoe Washer Pliers

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00209ETSS?ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details and set everything up for pressing the bearing assembly, spring washer and spacer off the axle. Here it is in the press.

It went well for the most part. The press operation did leave the inner bearing race stuck on the axle, but lucky for me I have a couple of 4" angle grinders. One has a cutting disc, and the other has a grinding disc. That saves me a lot of time swapping things back and forth.

After cutting and grinding, it was pretty easy to get the race off. One thing I didn't see on any part lists anywhere was the seal ring shown below. It is definitely a ring pressed onto the axle before the bearing assembly, and it even has a Koyo part number. A seal rides on it, so I cleaned it up with some 1000 grit sandpaper and WD40. It's not perfect, but it should suffice. Hindsight tells me I should have put some effort into writing that part number down for future use.

I definitely wouldn't want to reuse the spacer ring. I was really surprised with how deep the groove is where the seal was riding on it. This is the picture showing the spacer ring being somewhat inaccessible for cutting it off before pressing the bearing off.

Here's a picture showing the bearing assembly being pressed onto the axle.

The next step was to press the spring washer and spacer on.

After that, I reinstalled the four mounting bolts. Then I put a new seal and o-ring into and on the end of the differential housing. Once that was done, I put the axle assembly back in after rubbing some moly grease into the splines. Old habits die hard. I had fun putting the drum brakes back together, and once everything was back together the brakes were bled. The test drive confirmed I guessed correctly which wheel bearing was going bad, and I look forward to many miles of silent operation from my new wheel bearing that came from the NAPA store. It said NAPA and SKF on the box, but it was a Koyo bearing in the assembly.
Thanks to everyone who went out of their way to answer my questions about this job. I do appreciate it.

 

The seal ring Toyota calls it an oil deflector as well as deflector gasket. They are PNs
4244135060 and 4244360010 respectively. I did not change them when I did my bearings, but also cleaned them up, as well as the inner machined area where the seal rides. The seal seemed like a double lip design and I don’t think the oil deflector really makes all that much of a difference if it gets replaced or not as long as there are no sharp edges.

 

The "seal ring" I wrote about can be seen better in this picture. If you look at the left side of it you can make out some kind of Koyo part number. It appears to be a harder metal sleeve pressed onto the axle. I could definitely see a difference in the surface finish quality, as well as a distinct circle showing where the axle and the sleeve came together. At this point I'm guessing if someone were to order a new axle it would come with this sleeve already installed. The crappy drawing shown on the Toyota web site doesn't show that part of the axle.

 

Gotcha I see what you’re talking about now. I noticed mine had a wear ring from the previous seal as well but didn’t take notice it was not part of the axle shaft. I cleaned mine up with emery cloth and some scotch bright and I got it pretty smooth.