San Antonio

From personal experience with a similar problem during my career in the aerospace industry, I can tell you this:
A prototype exit cone utilizing a hand laid fiberglass/epoxy belt was to be cured in a hot box of 135º F for 72 hours. This was a fully documented tried and true process, as everything for the government always is. After said 72 hours, the belt was not only still tacky, but was soft, indicating an incorrect ratio of component chemicals. Engineers huddled and, as it was not a critical production part and had no future beyond in house study, it was decided to extend the cure time under observation at the same temperature of 135º F for as long as it required to complete the cure. This did prove successful, although taking an additional 3 weeks beyond the original 72 hours. Needless to say, if it had been a production part, it would never have progressed beyond the initial rejection, but subsequent machining operations confirmed the viability of the finished cure, if only to prove a point.
My point here is to advise that patience on your part may prove more productive than to seal it off preventing out-gassing, which may cause blisters and peeling of the outer coat of sealant. There is another factor to consider though, the primer itself is vulnerable to the elements, so you're damned if you do and damned if you don't. Good luck and reconsider the manufacturer's advice to remove it and start over.

 

Alan - what are you doing in San Antonio?! Thanks for your response - BUT -

1. Ain't no one got time for that kinda' shit!
2. If I have to drain the water to strip the epoxy off, I'll just peel all the tile off anyway, and have the gel resurfaced like the wife thinks is necessary!
3. Also isn't the time to tell the wife she's done with the pool for the year.
4. You also don't just arbitrarily drain a fiberglass shell in CenTex without a plan in place.

There is no more "smell of reaction" taking place. And the experts said it's done doing whatever it's going to do. Given that it's "solid" past tacky, a seal and coat will have to do. What is making me so happy is that I did all this last August - perfectly. Now the tiny drops that fell below what I painted will be a pain - they just scrape right off if hardened. This will take a blade and some solvent, so I will have to turn over some water anyway.

 

Kurt,

I have no idea how my post wound up in San Antonio, I was on the 60+ thread, and have only physically been in San Antonio once back in 1960. I was between duty stations and stopped off there to visit a pen pal! Boy, that Alamo is tiny!

OK, you've got nothing to lose in just wait and see... slap a coat of paint on it and cross your fingers. My own pool is in need of similar repairs, it's got plaster breaks on the bottom that annoy my wife. Personally, I'm good with the rustic look, but a happy wife will no doubt win that one.

 

Sooo you had fun today?









Hope it turns out better tomorrow

 

Me too!

 

Try using an electric heat gun while in the swimming pool....

 

Evening gents

Sounds like a tough day Kurt, hope you can get everything figured out.

 

Well, at least I have a plan again. Right or wrong..... I do plan on overcoming this obstacle. Fudd's First Law of Opposition; "If you push something hard enough, it will fall over."

 

A few goodies that i picked up over the course of the weekend. Found some killer deals on Facebook that was hard to pass up.

Kurt, i ended up getting the decked system put in and wired up all my connections for the control panel. The panel was causing me a headache, because after i had it all apart it wouldn't turn back on... After, about 30 minutes of driving myself mad (thinking my wiring was wrong or i broke the switch), and the frustrations grew, i checked the fuse next to the battery and if was burnt/blown out. 10 second fix after that...

The URD Y pipe wasn't to bad for the install. The only difficult part was the last bolt nut next to the oem cats that i stripped. Had to go get a special socket to fix that... ugh. As well as some copper anti-seize for the 02 Sensors.

Next, I'll change out my mid pipe to 2.5 inch and add a ultra vibrant resonator between the Y and muffler to help tame the noise a bit as well as eliminate all of the three inch piping. Hopefully this will maximize power output throughout the system.

However, My butt dyno can feel a slight increase in peppyness off the line. In could just be a placebo effect from the added noise level. Who knows?

 

Hope you like the Decked - looks virtually new - or is it? Worst thing about them is being old and getting bags of sand and such up there!

 

Not new, but almost. I picked it from a young lady down in eagle pass, we met half way in Ulverde. She just bought a used 2020 Tacoma that had it, and she didn't want it nor know how to take it out. So i uninstalled it for her and put it in my rig. She gave me a good deal for it. I'm pretty happy, especially considering the price i paid.

 

Great deal!

 

Yes! I did feel a little bad drilling holes into it for the 12volt panel, however its super convenient and useful. Plus, i use it all the time for my fridge while out camping. I think it looks good and functional.

 

I may tap into that switch and run some led lights as well for the bed/camper shell once it comes in. I have a roll of leftover led lighting strips from when i did the under cabinet lightening for my kitchen. Might as well use that. I'm just not a huge fan of soldering and using aluminum... ugh.

 

I used my self adhesive LED I had hanging around.....

 

Nice! Yeah, what i have is a roll of the adhesive led strips, (i think its 3m or something on the backend) I'm thinking to cut it to size on the beds length and back end and run the wires in between the three sides. With about a foot of wire between each of the connections to make it all flush. Not yet if i want to mount the lights up top on the shell or at the bottom near the bed/decked system like you.

 

Did you wire yours to your switch as well or do you have a separate one?

 

They are what's on the little switch - that's all. USB and power outlet. All is powered from underhood relay, and the switches in the overhead.

 

Morning gang

 

Morning Mark