Modified Tundra Rack Swap Preorder

I was thinking about doing that so I can go wheeling next weekend. Bring the rack lower vs the engine higher. My issue is I have 934 inner CV's so I can't make the rack go lower because the valve body will hit the CV. The guy who makes the engine mounts said it can be shimmed with some 3/16" plate to bring the engine up a little more for rack clearance, but hopefully I won't need to do that.

My last resort is to fuck with the diff mount on the drivers side. If I could bring the rack another 1/4" forward it would make life easier.

 

Wow! Good amount of work to get that bad boy in there. Please share any pics of that if you get a cha ce

 

Got it done enough to drive around a couple weeks ago so I haven't tested it off-road or finished up hose placement or securing them.

I've got some light grinding or interference at certain points in a turn not sure where it's coming from though, gonna let it run for a while to make it easier to find if it is indeed interference somewhere.

Howe pump + tundra rack in a second gen can turn 40s easier on pavement than a 2019 can turn 34s with stock rack and pump.

I wanted to triangulate the bracing but the project was taking too long and didn't see a great way to execute it so I just threw in straight ones. All the bracing is bolt in and can be easily removed.

 

Wow. Slick work there, that’s pretty sweet. Didn’t you have a tundra rack for a while before now?

 

Nope, I ran a stockish rack and pump with 40s for a year.

 

Is this shaved off for diff bolt clearance?

 

Yeah, I set up things up to be able to sit the rack all the way down and everything bolt up properly. The shaving wasn't necessary after putting spacers back in to lift the rack back up a little.

 

Thats good info. I didn’t realize there was that much meat there. I may need to shave mine a little to shove it forward to clear the 934.

 

I think I got the rack scooted a tiny bit more forward that most others with the extra work I did, so it might not be necessary with the standard location. The mounts on the tundra rack look significantly stronger than the stock so I didn't have any concerns about shaving off some of the aluminum.

 

It's looking like I'll need to do something similar due to the 934s. At the very least shave that down like you did. First step though is to replace the ragged ass engine mounts and go from there.

 

Just got mine safe & sound, wow this thing is beefy in person! Thanks @Basikbiker

 

This is just brainstorming here, but will there be an effect on geometry if the rack is rotated forward a tiny bit? In my mind I can’t see it changing anything if the inner pivot points, where the tie rods bolt to the rack, aren’t changing location.

I’m asking because I wonder if it’s feasible to do this to aid in lifting up the valve assemble ~1/2” to get it away from the inner cv.

 

It'll be fine

 

I figured. Thanks again for being so responsive both on here and IG. I really do appreciate it.

 

As you move the rack forward you lose Ackermann; the inside wheel turn radius won’t be as tight.

As long as the tierods are at an angle forward of the rack, you still have Ackermann on the proper side.

 

Yes thats true...but you can only move the rack so far forward because the front diff mount lug is in the way. Its not enough to make a "practical" real world difference

 

I ended up with mine far enough forward I have to remove the diff mount to get a socket on the rack bolt, that let me clear the 934 CV and oil pan. But I also have DMZ motor mounts.

 

Yea thats pretty common with 4wd the bolt head tucks in underneath the mount

 

I did some more work on the rack today and thought I'd provide pics and info here for future readers who tackle this.

I've been waiting on poly motor mounts from solid offroad and I got those installed today. I put the rack in and it still BARELY fit. In hindsight, I wish I would had put some 1/4” shims between the motor mounts and frame to lift it up a bit for maximum clearance. Pain in the ass at this point, so it’s not happening.


I got the rack where it needs to be so now I just need to weld mounting points in the frame.





There is about 1/8” clearance between rack and engine at the closest point. This is only ok because of the new motor mounts and how they pretty much eliminate flex. I ran this by Travis and he said it’s ok.




Mocked up.



Clearance between tundra rack and 934 inner CV joint. It’s close, but it should be ok.




Had to shave a bit off of the rack and the nut to shove this thing as far forward as humanly possible.




Tie rods mocked up.

 

edit: I decided to just cut out that section entirely and replace it with 0.875 x 0.120 DOM tube unless there's some reason I shouldn't.

Asked a mechanic friend and he thinks it's in event of an accident and they'll collapse to absorb some energy.

Does anyone know what purpose these ring things serve on the intermediate shaft and their construction? It barely touches the frame so I started grinding them down for clearance. Metal looked a little thin in spots based off of the heat signature so it made me curious.

Im tempted to just cut out the whole thing and just weld in some round stock