Long Travel BS Thread

driving locked at full lock might have something to do with it

 

Most certainly don’t intentionally do that lol. With that said. Both times were going in a straight line. Caused by wheel hop I do believe.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/better-steering-solutions.734503/

Feel free to tell me why I'm wrong, and add the correct information. Figured I'd try to consolidate some information.

 

Yeah, RCV told me 30* inboard and 45* outboard so now I’m confused.

 

Well like I said, yell at me Friday and I’ll take some measurements. No tools at work to pull limit straps but I have it limited just before the uniballs go metal to metal so that will give max working angles with a 3.5 kit

 

You almost nailed it for first gens haha



https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...c-linked-4dr-xlt.401632/page-16#post-24100261 rack slider built by TNT Fab

 

Y’all have some much more room for activity in the steering department.

 

No options still. Stupid rear steer. Side mounts for the rack are not helping. You'd really have to remove the steering cross member and fab up a whole new setup.

 

I'll update it! lmao at least there's a lot of space with the rear steer...

 

TC claims their +2 race kit gets 11.5, it's been a long time since I checked but IIRC total travel is pretty close to what they claim, but TC's recommended safe usable travel is a bit less.

 

The interference isn't terrible, I didn't even know it was happening until I disassembled one for inspection and saw the marks.

Depending on how a JD kit is set up it might cause problems if the JD 2.25 kit gets anywhere near what they claim.

 

My UCA was in between the coils before the 934 wanted to bind. Ball joint probably had a hair left before metal on metal. That’s been my limiting factor at least. I’m at 12” at the wheel because my wheeler bumps keep me from getting the last little bit of up travel. A wider LT kit should put even less angle on the CVs.

 

Once we get to the front I think we’re gonna do new crossmembers with full Hydro steering or a steering box and swing set. Depends what the room looks like and how headers come into play… but I agree, there isn’t shit out there for 1st gens

 

even with spring under axle??

 

any chance just making them tight with a standard length 1/2 in drive ratchet then again after a few hundred miles is somewhere close to the proper torque specs? asking for a friend

 

Yeah 90 fl lbs is a good snug pull if you have a long handled one

 

Yes

 

I never torque u bolts under their own weight to 85, never had an issue. Take that fwiw, I don’t understand why you think you need to.

 

They’ll loosen on some sua setups until they’re all settled in.

 

Oh yeah no matter what u bolt setup you’re running they will need to be checked periodically until everything settles in and finds its happy home. That’s usually about the time I’m back to messing around with things again and have to start over lol