ECGS Bushing - Is it a must?

TW has got me thinking..... Thats means it will cost me some money....lol I have an 09 DCSB and I will be putting on some UCA and 6112 this weekend. Now after reading that last 20 pages I wonder if I should just buy ECGS now and do it at the time. Or just wait and see what happens?
Does my truck take the 8" clamshell bushing?
Should I do the axel seal while I am at it? I never really road the truck hard off road or anything and have stayed on top of all the oils changes, diff, ect.
Its seems that its hit and miss. After looking at the video from Justin it doesn't seem like that big of a deal at another time..

Either way I will have to wait.. But I am pretty excited to get my new hardware on..

Thanks.

 

The bushing and seal are pretty cheap combo. You may as well get it. If you're having a professional do the job I would have them do it right now, if you're going to do it and you're hesitant, there's nothing wrong with waiting if your truck isn't causing any problems. Especially since you're not off-roading a whole lot according to you

 

Thanks.. I am going to do the work. I order the part but not the seal. I probably should have ordered that also.. But reading what some went through made me hesitant in wanting to replace seal also.

 

I have everything, including the ECGS bushing on hand. I installed the TRD OEM lift kit a couple of weeks ago. Front shocks set for top groove (2" measured lift). No hum or rumble strip sounds heard/felt as of yet.

 

I installed Eibach stage 1 on 1st clip, SPC uca and did the ECGS bushing while everything was apart. Didn't want to have to worry about or deal with it later.

 

When replacing the ECGS what is the process for replacing the axel seal? I have read in here it seems like most people leave it alone and the ones that tried to replace it had it leak. Mine is 11 years old and I bought one just in case.

Thanks

 

I just pried it out with a flathead screwdriver. In retrospect, I wish I would've had one of those automotive seal pullers because the flathead was not fun to deal with. Stuffed the new seal back in. Think I used a rubber mallet and some PVC pipe to lightly tap it in place. No leaks far as I can tell.

 

The PVC is a good idea.. Do you remember the diameter?

 

It was like 1/2" so I was tapping around it as I drove it in. I might've use my socket handle instead. But as soon as you said that I realized you probably meant a diameter about equal to that of the seal which is way smarter than how I did it.

 

Yes, I was thinking equal to the size of the seal..I will have the part tomorrow and figure it out..

Thanks.

 

Just finished my ecgs install on my 2020. Was adding upper control arms and figured it was a good time to do it. Actually wasn’t to hard. To remove the axle I just kept rotating the axle and using a pry bar until I found the sweet spot. Popped right out and was able to push the axle back in at the same spot. Bushing was kind of a pain to get in but the trick found was to stick a large socket over the bearing driver with a long extension and pound that with a 3lb hammer. Also I did not remove the axle nut and just left it in the hub.

edit: also bought a bottle of

$29 75w-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75w-90 and squeezed in gear fluid until it started to run out of the fill hole.

 

Anyone have a ecgs removal tool I can borrow or pay forward I’ll pay shipping of course

 

Where are you at?

 

Michigan 48324

 

I’m in NYC and can’t find anyone that reputable that has installed the ecgs bushing

 

PO installed 4.88 Nitro gears from ECGS plus an ARB front locker - so I should be good to go right? I am getting ready to do the wheel bearings/hubs soon should I pull the CV just to double check?

 

If you've got an ARB front locker, it already has a bushing instead of needle bearing, so no need to check.

 

Great thank you . While I was waiting on an answer I contacted ECGS and spoke with technical support - they confirmed what you relayed.

I appreciate the information

 

Mine in my 2nd gen didn't develop a vibe until around 10-15k after my lift. Hardest part is getting the tool in there, I ground my ECGS tool down to fit in there. then you'll need a bearing race driver to get the new one in nice and straight. Helps if you take the spindle off to get more room to swing a hammer.

 

*edit* Found