How to properly do slip-on wheel spacers

Ok, we all mostly know about the quality bolt on hub-centric wheel spacers from the likes of BORA, SpiderTrax, etc. They are quality pieces, they center the wheel well, and have a proven track record of punishment. The smallest you can find those are around 0.75" and for good reason; any skinnier and the lugnuts would stick past the spacer and hit most wheels. 0.75" or more is a little overkill.

So, what do we do if we bought wheels that are within a few mm of clearing the brake calipers or the control arms? Once you have decided that you definitely need to fit those wheels that are SOOOO close, there's really only ONE right way to do it, and it isn't the cheapest, but it is MUCH cheaper than new wheels. I'll explain here the right way to do slip-on wheel spacers, in my case 5mm spacers. I needed 5mm to clear the brakes on some non-returnable wheels I bought that didn't fit out of the box...

Step 1

Install extended wheel studs up front. This is NOT optional for any slip on spacer. Not even a little, not even temporarily, not maybe it will work. If you don't intend to do this, don't read any further because I don't want to be responsible when your wheel passes you on the highway. My wheels' (that don't support extended thread lugs) lugnuts were only engaging about 8mm of the stock studs WITHOUT spacers on a test fit.

Most guys use the Dorman 610-463, some run ARPs, there are extended sets on Amazon, and I bought a set from wheeladapter.com - https://www.wheeladapter.com/product/extended-wheel-studs-for-toyotas

There are a million write-ups for installing studs, I did use the Lisle 2288 stud installer and I did love it. Ok so, studs are on.



Step 2

Get good spacers. I'll be honest and admit that I tried the $5 wheelers 1/4" spacers on their website. They are terrible because they are not hub centric and even after multiple attempts, I could NOT get the wheels centered on the studs only (aka lug centric). This manifests at varying levels of vibration/shimmy in the steering wheel at higher speeds. The 60 degree conical seat lugs are usually pretty good at centering the wheel, but not in this case.

These are bad m'kay? Cheap and bad. Don't use them. Maybe in a pinch for a few days at most.


These are the good spacers below. I called into Fred at wheeladapter.com. I can speak for these guys, I have visited their shop in LA, and they use QUALITY steels and aluminum and it's all made and machined in house to spec. They have made me many spacers over the years from steel for a 1 ton chevy to aluminum spacers like others. They made me a custom set of 5mm wheels spacers, 106mm ID for the stock hub bore and 110mm OD hub to match the bore on my aftermarket wheels. I also heard that BORA will custom make spacers to spec too.

I did pay $160 shipped for 2 custom spacers and had them within a day of ordering. It isn't cheap, but remember, it's a lot cheaper than new wheels by a long shot. They're made to order from a US shop with good materials. They just slipped onto the hubs with tiny taps needed to slide onto the hub. The fitment was perfect.



The wheels slipped right on snug to the spacers and centered perfectly on the lugs. Here you can see how much stud is left. You may even need extended lugs so they don't bottom out. Mine didn't bottom out, but they're probably within a few mm. Now, I probably have 25mm of lug engagement.



Wheels are on, and now there's a few mm to spare to the caliper. Success.

 

I've driven on these for about 100 miles and so far so good! Zero vibration or shimmy in the steering wheel.

 

Right on!
What year truck?
What wheel, TE37x’s?
Brakes, 13wl’s?

 

2018. Rota Grid X Off-road. Stock brakes.

 

I’ll be joining this club today. Spacers are from BORA and were $50 each plus $25 shipping. I bought extended studs from wheeladapter.com, linked above and paid $35 shipped for 12. All in, $160 for this setup.

what’s nice though is these have a 106 inner hub and a 108 outer hub to match my wheels.

 

Barely enough room to add the rear studs without full disassembly but they fit!

 

NICE! How are they holding up so far?

NICE! How thick are those spacers? How are they holding up so far?

 

1/2” thick and no issues. I’ve had the back wheels/tires and spacers off multiple times now with no issues. I’m glad I went this route.

 

Good to know. 1/2" thick is exactly what I am looking for. I know that Spidertrax & BORA wheel adapters are safe & durable but what I like about these slide on spacers is that there aren't 6 more lug nuts to worry about.

I my case I have 17" 4Runner Trail wheels on my '15 DCSB which already "stick out" 3/4's of an inch due to their offset. With 1/2 spacers it would stick out the same as adding 1.25" Spidertrax spacers to factory Tacoma wheels

Thank you for the update.

 

BTW, why did you only do the rear?

 

So my tires wouldn’t rub my shocks

 

Oh. OK. Your shocks are relocated?

 

Wow. I just noticed the shocks are NOT relocated.

 

@EatSleepTacos

I see you were running 2” rear and 1.25” front spacers before. What made you change to the slide-on spacers?

 

Different wheels with more aggressive specs. Now I have no spacers up front and 1/2” rear to aid in clearing my shock.

 

Ok. Good to know. Glad to hear the 1/2” spacers are working out. I’ll be replacing front pads, rotors, rear shoes and drums soon. While I’m there I’ll replace the wheel studs with the ones from Wheeladapters.com.

 

Yeah they’re rock solid, I have no hesitation with these whatsoever.

 

Thank you.

 

@EatSleepTacos
I called Bora and placed my order with Lenny. He was very helpful. I was worried that with the 15mm (.59”) spacer going from 106mm to 106mm that it wouldn’t be thick enough to have enough “lip” for my wheels to still be hub-centric. He told me it will be exactly the same as bolting the wheels onto the brake hubs directly. That’s GOOD news!

I’m going to order a set of 24 wheel studs from wheeladapter.com as well. On their website it states that their wheel studs are 1/2” longer than OEM but in the picture you posted they seem to be bigger than 1/2”.

I’m hoping these wheel studs will be long enough to work with my spacers being a hair more than 1/2”. My 4Runner wheels use the shank style lug nut just like all aluminum Tacoma wheels so there should be enough thread engagement.

Do you need to retorque these periodically or just at tire rotations?

Thank you.

 

Nice! And I don’t re torque them any more frequently than I would my other wheels.