2nd Gen 4.0L V6 Tacoma fabricated solid motor mounts for sale

Sounds good guys. Yes the pass side has double the room. IMO, the wire harness that goes in front of the driver side mount is the real only pain to work around.

Good news is, my parts are smaller in overall design and profile so they fit in there easier than it is to get the stock junk out.

Other good news, you won't be messing with these things for at least a decade. I still have my first gen mounts in my truck that I built and installed in 2003.

Other other good news, if you replace them before SHTF you wont be looking at this on your frame:

 

Eesh

 

Some more that shipped last week!

4.0V6 motor mounts and 4wd transmission mount.

 

God damn that purple is sickkkkkkkkk!!!

 

I am not typically a purple-ish fan, but I agree with him. ^^^

 

Its a anodized finish enamel, more expensive and a PITA to make it come out nice but it does look rad.

 

Matches the color used in your logo I like it!

 

3rd gen guy pops up out of nowhere and nudges you again about trans mounts for my MT.

the motor mounts are still one of the very best things on my truck.

 

Awesome to hear! I'm waiting till I see lots and lots of interest, it's a huge deal and very pricey to R&D, CAD draw, program, cut and trial and error a new part. I have to be sure I can sell a good amount

 

i know i know. I'll probably never stop asking tho... the 3rd gen crowd doesn't get a lot of things, your mounts being one of them unfortunately for me. if i could choose 3 mods out of all the ones i have, which is a long list, the motor mounts would be in that top three. trying to share the value in 3rd gen land is like talking to aliens and i don't get why. and yet they complain about everything... like power delivery. gawd.

 

Honestly I think part of the issue is that the 3rd gen trucks are still just "too new" that 90% of owners don't want to do any modification to them that isn't purely based off looks. Changing motor mounts is a very un-glamorous modification, and unless the owner understands fully the benefits or has personally experienced the damage that occurs when the stock ones wear out or break, it just isn't high on the priority list.

Give it time, as the trucks age the components do also and people will want to start upgrading parts. Unfortunately for customers that really offroad their vehicles, a lot will experience costly damages from the worn out components that could of been prevented for a fraction of the repair costs.

 

Been stirring the pot on the X-runner FB page. Been sending them to your IG.

 

Awesome thank you.

I know there is a pretty big X runner club somewhere in Florida that has bought like 10 sets

 

happy with my mounts

question: I changed my clutch with stock motor mounts. Solid was installed later.
Need to change the clutch again.
Normally with OE mounts (rubber flex) this means 2 things.
-there is movement of the engine to help mate the trans and engine
-the engine might sag down at the back, which can also aid stabbing the transmission back in. Especially if using a trans jack which has adjustment knobs to control the angles.

Is having solid mounts gonna make doing this clutch job harder?
I'm hoping they won't have to be removed.

 

I recently did a clutch job on my truck with these solid motor mounts installed.

Having performed this service previously on OE mounts as well as on the solid motor mounts, I can't say that the latter makes it any more difficult. There's still plenty of "give" to sag the trans a bit to get to those top two bolts on the bell housing..

 

found out my driver side came loose
I am fully willing to take the blame for that

But what I want to ask is...
Is it worth upgrading the hardware? Not the ones that come with the mounts. But everything else that I re-used in the other holes, such as to the frame. Like the shallow head flanged 14mm nuts, brackets, and weird 14mm bolts with the 45deg tab on them.
They seem pretty weak and shitty.
Any other vehicle I've ever changed motor mounts always had much heavier duty hardware to hold something so important.

But, it is a tight space, so maybe bigger hardware won't even fit.
Bonus points if anyone explains how they tighten the driver's side.
I've tried a torque adapter peanut, pry bar, regular stubby, ratcheting stubby, combination wrench, offset wrench, and so on
after getting black arms from dirt and cursing a lot, I've left it for a future day.

I'll try removing the wheel and splash liner

 

For the drivers side, I just flipped the bolts to be the opposite orientation, I wanna say nut facing down/out now. The first time I tightened it down it took me absolutely forever because there was no room to get any tools in there. I had to add some shims under the motor mount and flipped the bolt the other way, took a minute or two to tighten the bolt with the right selection of extensions and swivel sockets.

 

Def was tricky. At least a couple I went with good and tight. Couldn’t get the wrench in there but so far no issues. The extra vibrations at standstill takes some getting used to

 

Have you upgraded the transmission mount yet?

 

Did you use Loctite? Red threadlocker for all bolts going into iron blocks or nuts on the frame, and blue for all bolts going into aluminum blocks.

The driver side will want to come loose naturally, as that is the "lift" side of the motor. AKA the engine picks up from the driver side when power is applied. Therefore it is important to definitely check those bolts (and all important drivetrain/suspension bolts) after the first off road trip, and occasionally there after. Standard prep/maintenance type stuff. Bolts that stay tight, cause no damage.

I'm not a fan of upgrading to a "stronger bolt" such as an aircraft 12 point. In 15 years of off road desert racing, we never broke one factory Toyota drivetrain bolt, as long as it was tight.

The other theory, is that in a hypothetical situation, you would want the bolt to break before the engine block cracked. One of those options is easier and cheaper to fix. This is my reasoning why I use a grade 5 bushing cross-bolt as well - the grade 5 will bend before the engine block bolts would shear. You want the stress passed onto the easiest and most inexpensive part. Engineered fail-safe.