LCA alignment bolts

I have a chance to buy all 4 alignment bolts for $120 CDN ($92 USD) brand new via kijiji. I have a 2013 limited, don’t need them now but figured it was pretty cheap insurance when I replace front shocks. Thoughts? Thanks

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-other-auto-...p_ios&utm_medium=social&utm_source=ios_social

 

All OEM that’sa good price, grab them. What year is the other members truck?

 

Not sure what year but I’m getting the part numbers shortly to double check

 

It’s been through 6 nasty Canadian winters so chances are good that they are seized up. Just don’t know for sure yet

 

2 of each part number.

 

If he’s a 3rd Gen they won’t work

 

Awesome pic, I’ll be using that to cross check part numbers. Thanks.
Truck is a 2013 so 2nd gen

 

I bought a full set from Toyota a couple of years ago but don't recall what I paid. IF that's a good price, I'd jump on it. I'd definitely stick with OEM on this hardware.

 

He’s got a 13 limited DC

 

They will work for you

 

The part numbers line up with Muddinfun’s post

 

What size is the big nut anyway?

So the captive nut that holds it tight, might be an 18mm. You loosen that, so that the camber (or whatever) can be adjusted.
The actual adjustment can be done with probably a 19mm wrench, if you're lucky.

But if you look closer, the other side also has a big nut.
My wrench set maxes out at 24mm, and my only next biggest is a 27mm. I forget what I used, and it helped to turn both at once (not sure if they even should be turned both at once, or can move independently on each side of the bolt),

but I need to figure out if it's a 25mm or 26mm, so I can buy that wrench. And I am just using shitty cheap Tekton wrenches, which kind of sucks. Because they don't fit very well.
Whereas if you're using a Snap-On Flank Drive Plus combination wrench (mm, standard) such as an SOEXM24, those are thicker for easier to grab more leverage, the head fits tighter, and the head also has teeth that bite into the metal for good grip to prevent stripping it.
Problem is an SOEXM24 is $74 new from the Snap-On truck, or $95+ from that nutjob on eBay selling them who for some reason things listing items a more then MSRP is a sales strategy.

Just tried aligning my truck and it was hard. Not sure I even know what I was doing.
Ended up getting similar adjustments on both sides to keep it even. Steering wheel is a bit crooked but that's probably just aesthetic, or caused by rear dogtracking.
I can always pull over, get under the truck, adjust the tie rods a couple flats on both sides, rinse and repeat until it's straight.
And then do a final toe check to verify it's even.

What I'm not sure about is how to set caster properly, and how it affects other measurements. I believe it must be set first.
Any time I messed with the caster adjustment, it would throw camber off. I had to go back and forth like 4 times.

But yeah. About those bolts, mine were hard to turn. And they squeaked/made noises. Really had to put my back into it.
On an '08 with 130k+ miles.
Maybe I should've heated them with a torch.
If cheaping out on replacing new, it might also help to remove them, clean with wire brush/wheel, and re-install coated in thin film of anti-sieze.

Problem with the way it's designed and everything packed tightly in there, is even though I sprayed penetrating oil before hand to try and loosen things up, it doesn't really have a way to get in there and work.
Was it still adjustable? Yes. Not fully siezed up/broken/snapped or anything.
It was just difficult.

 

got them in the mail today. $137 CDN shipped.
Thanks for all the replies

 

Oem?

 

yep!

 

So many things wrong with this part of your post that I hardly know where to start. First, were you on an alignment rack? If not, there's literally no way to get the alignment correct.

Second, having similar settings on each side (on the cam bolt indicators) does not mean you have correct or same (side to side) settings. All sorts of things in the manufacturing process as well as wear and tear over the life of the truck mean both sides will almost always be at different settings.

The steering wheel is crooked because you didn't start with it in the straight ahead position and lock it before making any adjustments. You are correct in that you're going to have to adjust both tie rod ends to get it back straight - after everything else is straight.

Finally, did you tighten the adjustment cam bolts with the wheels on the ground or up in the air? Up in the air will cause all sorts of problems.

 

Post is from a year ago
the camber is set. Steering wheel is straight. As is toe.
Just haven't figured out my way around caster yet. I will have to research it

 

Where did you purchase these?