Haltech Stand alone ECU supercharger 3.4, SILVER BULLET TUNE www.snpspeed.com

AFR is around 13.5 - 14.5 when just cruising. 14.7 at idle.
Yes, as soon as boost comes on ( my tune) AFR drops to 12 regardless if it’s at WOT 5000 or 1500rpms and the new power is immediately felt.
BEFORE With the methonal and OEM ECU I could tune to AFR to 12 in closed loop using a #4 nozzle and over powering the ECU When it trimmed back, And there was a small power gain but my open loop ended being at 10-11.
The new timing map with the haltech in the lower areas is making a huge difference with the AFR at 12 consistent now from 1500-5300rpms.
I’ve actually never had a perfect AFR from 1500-5300 because you have to find a happy middle for open and closed loop with just methonal.

Before it was like the power Would come on but was always waiting for the surge at 3500 if the ECU decide to go into open loop and that was never a consistent rpm.

Again the new power has to do a lot with the timing

 

You're making me want to go back to a SC

 

It gets checked directly with a timing light.

Coming from the voice of wisdom that handles too much boost and not enough octane by forcing the computer to keep it on knock threshold all the time. That should raise more eyebrows than mine. Out of respect for 1997tacomav6, that's where I'm leaving it.

 

Turbo will always trump a supercharger regardless, but a maxed out supercharger, the stock components will handle all its power without any other mods,
I think once you get over 350 rear wheel things have the potential to break or wearing out, clutch, transmission, diffs, etc.
I’m not looking at making my truck a race car, just love the extra power and a much better tune solution.
I’ve owned a Porsche turbo and an Audi turbo before.
The haltech would be an excellent option for a turbo setup.

So I had the check engine light inspected by the tuner because it can only be done with the computer and the haltech software and the tuner said it was in the wiring, So no actually check engine light is showing.

So the next bugs are,

The rpm slow motion in the 3k area on the needle is next.

Working on fine tuning my methonal mixture and spray points this week.
If your running methonal with the the original small injectors you will be fine tuning this area, I might have the haltech control this area at a later date tho depending as it has that ability. Also replaced the 97 stock MAF 2.5" section with a 3.5" section

 

Got a windows computer and down loaded the software from the website ESP.
There are two different downloads needed.
A) the main ESP download
B) the DATA LOGGER download.
Then you have to registered with haltech.com to go forward with the software.
C) In order to be able to do a remote tune you need ANOTHER download.
You need to google TEAMVIEWER from the website as a quest=free.

This with enable a remote access
to get these bugs fixed today hopefully.

 

Here are the websites you will need, links.
Two haltech downloads,
A) the main download
B) datalogger download
One teamviewer download

You will need to know if your computer is 32 or 64 bit setup for teamviewer.

https://www.haltech.com/downloads/software/

https://www.teamviewer.com/en-us/info/free-remote-access-software/

 

I really do think much of the issues we have with the awful ECU tune is mostly because of timing. Ive noticed that timing goes from 11-12 to 18-19 right around 4000-4500rpm. Before the timing jump it just seems to sort of feel lazy.

I could be wrong on this. That’s why I’d like too see what Jon’s timing map looks like.

It’s really a damn shame that we were left out in the cold on this. If Toyota/Magnuson had done the right thing from the beginning it would be a much more satisfying and complete kit.

I would guess that if they had something like a replacement ECU from the start sales would have been much improved. Just a damn shame really.

It would have been interesting to be involved with the politics surrounding this at development. I just can’t fathom that there wasn’t at least ONE person there that held issue with the “nO tUnE NeEdEd” bullshit.

 

Yes the timing has be be much different.
I wonder if I can pull up the timing map on this software?
The lazy OEM ECU = higher mpg numbers tho.

The best way to describe the new power is the difference going WOT in 40 degrees weather compared to WOT IN 90 degrees weather with the supercharger.
There is a huge difference it feels like.

October I will do a Dyno compared to another Dyno last year so temperatures will be the same and the same Dyno shop

 

Did I miss the part where you stated how many RWHP from your dyno?

 

No, I will do a Dyno in October when the temperatures are not 100 degrees,
It’s not fully tuned yet working through some bugs still

 

The issue with the SC? The only reason the timing changes is to reduce pinging so it’s really more about detonation suppression than anything else which comes down to a few things... octane, intake air temps/pressure, AFR etc.

One of the more reliable ways to reduce ping and get the timing back is so enrich the AFR but like OP said then you’re losing MPG.

I do agree with you though that the power drops quite a bit when the timing is forced to retard so finding a way to reduce it should be a high priority.

 

@1997tacomav6 when you say the RPMs in the mid range are “slow motion” do you mean just the tach is going slow for some reason? Like it’s not actually lining up with your actual RPMs?

 

Yes, it’s just the tach, it might be that the power source from the ignitor is getting weak with
all the miles I have and the haltech needs a stronger signal like the crankshaft signal source. I’m going to see if I can find a used one with lower miles than mine.
The OEM price is 600.00 for the ignitor!

We did a quick tie in remote for 30 minutes and he cleaned up a number of settings that
we’re not spot on.

Gabe fixed the check engine light, it’s related to the crankshaft sensor.

If I hit the redline the crankshaft sensor throws a check engine light but clears after the
engine is restarted. I need one more 30 minute remote or less because we ran out of time to fine tune the idle areas. It drops down to 500 rpms and the AC power 1500 rpm increase is not working,
This is probably because my truck did not have AC originally and has to be wired into the haltech separately.

 

So you were correct in some manner about the difference with it tuned with the haltech.
The fine tuning is done except a low idle.

AND the methonal needs are completely different with the haltech tune.

Gabe had to fix some bugs that Jamie could not do.
Now the methonal starts
at 8 pounds of boost with stock injectors and stock fuel pump.
Before with the stock ECU my spray point was at 2.5 pounds of boost up.
Huge difference in that area now needing less Methonal with the haltech.

If I had or put an AEM high flow fuel pump I probably would not need the methonal just water for cooling.

 

Whats your injector duty cycle at? I bet they are almost maxed out.

I installed a DW 200 that's 255LPH and way more fuel than needed and not too loud.

https://deatschwerks.com/collections/fuel-pumps/products/9-201-1000

 

yes I’m sure they are tapped out at 12 pounds of boost!
If you put larger injectors you would not need methonal for a fuel supply.

I probably will get larger injectors on my next Supercharger rebuild and run water Injection only for the summer months

 

He posted a picture that shows what I believe is duty cycle. Looks like they went slightly over 80% in some areas.

 

Doing a little more remote tuning today and will be moving the Redline limiter to 5800rpm, Gabe says 6k is still safe with a good tune

 

That supercharger is going to be screaming at nearly 19k RPM.

 

It doesn’t matter about the 19k, that area is literally just for seconds, maybe 1percent at that speed.
Well we had problems with the new crank sensor,
It will not let the rpms go over 5400rpms,
So going to just keep it at this spot for now.