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2020 Tacoma amplifier problems

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by yee_yee_Lexi, Aug 28, 2021.

  1. Aug 28, 2021 at 11:14 PM
    #1
    yee_yee_Lexi

    yee_yee_Lexi [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2021
    Member:
    #375575
    Messages:
    1
    Gender:
    Female
    First Name:
    Lexi
    Vehicle:
    White 2020 Tacoma SR5
    Hey y’all I’m having one really difficult problem with my truck. I have a 2020 Tacoma SR5. I’ve had my Tacoma for about a year now and i love it. When I first got it I got a 10” subwoofer for it and waited for the plug and play piece to be made so I could install the sub and amp without voiding the warranty. When I did that everything worked fine except the remote wire cable. I took my truck to a well known and repeatable place that installs audio equipment in vehicles.

    They got it working right and for a few months i didn’t have any problems but then my amp began going into protection mode. It goes into protection mode regardless if I’m parked or driving. so I took it back and they told me I needed a new subwoofer. I got a new subwoofer and I still had the same problem.

    So I took my my truck apart where I ran the wires thinking something might be loose somewhere or a wire might be pinched. Everything was good a tight. So I figured I should get a new amp. I purchased a 1500 watt amp because I wanted more then enough power for my now 12” subwoofer. It worked fine for a couple days. It did still cut off while I was driving but it came right back on. My friend's does that so I wasn’t too worried about it.

    But while I was driving tonight the amp cut off and never came back on. I really don’t know what to do at this point I’ve tried everything I can think of I think it might be the remote wire but I’m not sure.

    I’m wondering if my truck just doesn’t like having an amp and subwoofer connected to it because it’s so new. I really hope y’all can give me some tips I’m really tired of messing with this situation.
     
    danmtchl likes this.
  2. Sep 4, 2021 at 6:29 PM
    #2
    dolbytone

    dolbytone Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 14, 2010
    Member:
    #37165
    Messages:
    1,317
    Gender:
    Male
    South Carolina
    Vehicle:
    09 TRD Off Road
    See if your fuse holder is shitty.
     
    danmtchl likes this.
  3. Sep 5, 2021 at 10:28 AM
    #3
    destin_meeks

    destin_meeks I used to fix people's crappy stereos

    Joined:
    Jul 14, 2017
    Member:
    #223997
    Messages:
    3,939
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Destin
    Tuscaloosa, AL
    Vehicle:
    2017 SSM DoubleCab TRD Off-Road 4x4
    Yeah this.

    -I installed my amp back in 2017. A few months ago, my audio just cut out (and just a few minutes into a road trip, too)
    -I said ehh whatever I’ll figure it out later.
    -I started with all the setting in my pioneer head unit
    -Then tested power at the amp. Got 12.something with the truck off. All good there. Got power to the remote wire as well. Double checked all my RCA’s (they’re all mounted behind the seats so I wasn’t expecting that to the be the problem)
    - factory reset the head unit (which wrecked all my settings) and the problem still persists.
    - tested power at the amp with the truck running and the radio on… 8v… hmmm that’s not right
    -battery was getting 13.whatever, front side of fuse holder getting 13.whatever, back side of fuse holder was showing 8v… bingo, we have a winner. I assume a partially blown fuse. Luckily I keep extra fuses. I pop the cover off the fuse holder and when I start to loosen the Allen bolts holding the fuse in. That’s when I realized one of them was holding on by like 2 threads. Tightened it down and hear music start blasting in the truck. FINALLY I think to myself. It’s (almost) always the simple answer
     
  4. Sep 5, 2021 at 8:32 PM
    #4
    MannyTheAudioGuy

    MannyTheAudioGuy Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 11, 2017
    Member:
    #221258
    Messages:
    358
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Emmanuel
    Napa
    Vehicle:
    2017 Tacoma TRD Sport
    I have put in Racesport gen3 leds I'm the process of doing a custom audio overhaul which will include Hybrid audio unity 6x9 mid bass, unity 3 inch mid driver in the dash and fiberglassing tweets in pilar soundeading all the doors, floors, and headliner and I will be using a helix processor to retain the factory radio and as far as subs I might make custom brackets to move rear seat foward a few inches to get a full size sub in there or I might just go with a pair of jl tw5 or tw3 and it will all be powered by jl audio HD amps or I might try out the new hybrid amps
    Well here’s a couple of things I would check.
    • power make sure all terminals are tight and the fuse is making a solid connection check voltage at amp aswell.
    • grounds make sure your ground is solid if you want to be technical( get a multi meter and set it to impedance(ohms) and check impedance from your ground point to the batteries negative terminal) you want a super low impedance the higher it is the worse the ground is.
    • remote see how they grabbed the remote(ignition, signal sensing, fuse tap,) if they grabbed remote from a high to low that’s generates a remote the high to low converter might be bad.
    • check impedance of subs.
    • make sure all connections behind radio are nice and tight.
    • check power cable if they used cca power wire I’ve seen it corrode over time and become useless even though visually it appears ok because of the thick rubber jacket they add sometimes
    •if they did you cca the longer you play you amp the hotter the wire gets and the more resistance the wire gets resulting in voltage drop which may cause the amp to go in protect.
     
  5. Sep 5, 2021 at 8:34 PM
    #5
    MannyTheAudioGuy

    MannyTheAudioGuy Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 11, 2017
    Member:
    #221258
    Messages:
    358
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Emmanuel
    Napa
    Vehicle:
    2017 Tacoma TRD Sport
    I have put in Racesport gen3 leds I'm the process of doing a custom audio overhaul which will include Hybrid audio unity 6x9 mid bass, unity 3 inch mid driver in the dash and fiberglassing tweets in pilar soundeading all the doors, floors, and headliner and I will be using a helix processor to retain the factory radio and as far as subs I might make custom brackets to move rear seat foward a few inches to get a full size sub in there or I might just go with a pair of jl tw5 or tw3 and it will all be powered by jl audio HD amps or I might try out the new hybrid amps
    Another thing you can do is jump the remote wire to the constant 12 volts and use your phone as a audio source to isolate it from being eathier your radio or the remote turn on you need rca to headphone jack to do this though. And if it does not shut off I would focus my efforts on the remote or the signal source. If it still shuts off focus on power source/ subs possibly being blown
     

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