Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

That is absolutely correct. Which is why I am working to find a solution to booting the rack that will work long term. For your average person that’s not submerging their stuff in silty mud, it will likely never be an issue. Since I resealed it’s been completely fine, but I’ve also been avoiding mud like the plague. When I pulled the rack down I noticed 2 issues. A. Heavy dirt intrusion. B. The shaft had a pretty heavy layer of rust on the drivers side. Even though I do in fact grease it every time I grease the truck.

 

If the mud is that bad or you just can't help yourself, duck boat the engine bay. Are you running a sealed alternator?

 

So went to bolt the 62 swap front hangers on and the bolt holes don't line up with the bottom rivet locations on either side....
Also this passenger one doesnt have a front deflector plate like the driver's side does.

My truck is currently in pieces so what are my options? Is it safe to run just the outside bolts for now? I can't get ahold of Harry.

 

You simply match drill the bottom holes in the frame

 

Okay.

 

I am not, honestly it was a big oops when I swamped it. But that’s also not the first time. It’s literally unavoidable in this part of the country. Sometimes you have two options. Back track 30 miles to avoid said hole or send it and have 5 miles left. I sent it. I sunk it. That same incident also cost me my front crank seal and balancer. Shit happens. Just trying to make things as durable as possible for my location. Much like everybody else is for their part of the country.

 

Not exactly 'bolt on' in the way I was hoping...

 

Still way easier than 99% of kits out there.

 

Yeah the hangers require you to drill 4 holes.

 

What all needs to go and what can stay?
I assume the new spring perches are 180* from factory?

 

So, this might be a dumb question, but when I went to take the skidplate off my LCA pivots, I'm noticing that the LCA bars and the center jack point on the crossmember are not "flat". Is that normal? the skidplate is now getting kind of "bent" around the center jack point. All of the mounting hardware appears to have gone on correctly/everything else looks fine, so I'm not really sure what to make of that.

 

Did you guys ever figure out the clunk? I wanted to remind you that a dry driveshaft slip yolk causes a very annoying clunk that feels like a basketball rolling forward and back in the bed of the truck. A little

$19 Ford XG8 Genuine Ford Fluid XG-8 PTFE Lubricant - 3 oz.

Ford XG8 blue paste grease will remedy that. Just figured I’d add because I was the happiest person when I figured out that issue

 

You going SUA?? Hopefully you measured your pinion angle at ride height before you took it all apart. That way you can just set the same pinion angle at ride height with the SUA setup then weld the perches on. Not sure just putting them at 180 from stock will get you what you need.

 

Nope. Shoot for the pinion to be 2° “Down” from the driveshaft at ride height.

 

You have to trim about an inch off the factory jack point for the skid to sit flush. The LCA kit was designed to give you every possible inch of ground clearance.

 

This

 

Awesome, thanks. I'll do that then. Much appreciated!

 

Thanks.

 

Thats something to remember for when we cut my truck apart.
Should we weld in a small flat piece to fill the hole once cut?