Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

No point, if you put a straight edge across the lower pivot tubes you can see right where you need to cut the jack point. This way the skid will sit hard up against the jack point and act as a plate

 

Check.

 

What is everyone doing to paint the pivots?



Last time I used regular spray paint on a truck part it didn't work out well. Ambient temp was too hot during cure time, creating micro-crack spider webs.
That and the overspray + fumes you have to worry about if you don't have a backyard to do it in.

Plus with the way this thing appears to go on, I don't know if a spray can would get into the inside nooks and crannies for coverage to prevent rust.

This all makes Steel-It sound like the best idea. I have heard of people using it. (weldable coating)
If that is the case, how many cans are needed? Costs more than regular paint, at $30/can


Not sure if prep-work is recommended (steel wool, scotchbrite, chemicals, sanding, etc.) or if it's OK to just spray Steel-It straight on the part right out the box

 

That’s what I used. In black. I think that’s what most people use for it. Easy to touch up too when you scrape it.

I DA sand or wire wheel almost everything. Use an alcohol wipe and then go straight to paint.

 

Steel it is the better choice here. It’s how we did mine and if you prep the parts before install and then again after install you’ll be just fine. The steel it really gets in there well if you do thin coats

 

if you read the instructions from steelit it says to bead blast the surface first to create proper adhesion. you could also try using a true self etching primer instead which is never a bad idea

 

I might blast it then in that case

I've used self etch primer before but I don't know how weldable that is; it probably isn't
unless masking off the edges that will be welded so that everything else (main body) is primed but not the edges
in which case steel-it sounds better
because even then, with primer, it'd still potentially need paint and clear, which might be impossible to spray into nooks and crannies once the thing is welded on the truck

 

@TacoTuesday1 POR15 is the way for long term durability. SteelIt is a good option too. Regardless...



It's all about the prep. Curly knew it.

 

Do not weld through a finish. Take it down to bare metal first.

 

Phosphoric acid etches steel too. It’s needed for POR 15 adhesion on clean metal.

 

All thats left is the new shock mounts.

 

Steelit is decent at best. I had it on the back half of my frame from when I did the shock relocate. But even with blasting, it’s not as durable as everybody makes it out to be. This time around, we are going to epoxy prime and use actual automotive paint. I have had better luck with POR in the past.

 

Maybe a tad late, but I believe the spring perches should also be located slightly more outboard due to the springs being more offset from the frame. May experience accelerated bushing wear if not. Unless that double spherical bearing can account for the misalignment. Just my perspective, but someone else can verify.

 

Really, you should be able to mount the front and rear hangers and the spring falls where it falls and you center the axle off of that. Correct?

 

Correct. All said and done, they are going to be slightly more positive offset from the original location.

 

This is correct

 

@81Trekker whats the torque spec on the leaf bolts? 100ft/lbs?

 

There is a literal chart on the leaf spring in your picture. Just saying lol. Is it covered?

 

Overspray...
Also not talking about the ubolts.
The 9/16-18 grade 8 bolts through the eyelets on the leaf is what I'm talking about. Charts online say grade 8 9/16-18 fine are a torque spec of 129. Just want to confirm.

 

Oh, your picture and saying leaf bolts threw me off. You should be fine with that torque.