Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

OEM spec is 89ft lbs on an M14 bolts for the eyelets. The new eyelet bolts are 9/16.

 

I failed to read lol, its my bad.

 

It’s all good. I did the same. I thought he was also talking about the u bolts.

 

I found my issue. Passenger side cab mount had come dislodged. A while back I rotated the mount to chop some more off and instead of drilling new bolt holes got a little lazy and tacked it on haha. I always had it in the back of my mind to do a relocate or rebuild it, but it went on the back burner. I’m thinking this is one of those areas where a bolt is better than a bead. But another bead it got

 

3 days down, this is where I got.

 

Nice! Looking forward to seeing this on the long bed. I plan on redoing my sua with this kit towards the end of the year, but I think I am going to run a bed cage and longer shocks.

 

The filler neck relocate has me stumped. Sent Harry a pm so we'll see. Then it's off to the races chopping the bed to fit the towers and lowering it back on.

 

Super easy with the bed off, hose stretcher from harbor freight. If they have board straighteners get one of those too, highly recommended.

 

Thanks...

 

So, when does the cantilever link setup get released? Jk. But seriously, why isn’t this a thing?

 

What you were discussing earlier, tuning. It makes it that much more difficult with everything from spring rates to valving. Plus if you want bypasses where you gonna package them along with COs. Lots of reasons why it isn't an ideal setup and you don't see a lot.

 

Oh I fully understand the tuning aspect of things. But I’ve seen many with bypasses and CO’s. Honestly, I know it’s unrealistic as a kit. It’s just bad ass.

 

Tuning a cantilever setup can be difficult due to changing motion ratios throughout the travel. That said there’s a few “kits” out there and they do work pretty well

 

Because a cantilever setup will put your checkbook into a catatonic state and your retirement account will never recover. It's expensive to design, develop and produce. We won't even get into supporting customers through install and tuning. Those who can afford such things can afford a custom build and someone to install/tune.

Danny Parsel has a build going on. Complicated isn't even a good place to start talking about it. Just enjoy the eye candy:

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CTD2scGFPuH/
.

 

Just saying, but raptor stuff is retarded expensive and they have cantilever options for them for under 4k. Granted that's going to be for leaf spring trucks.

 

Because the whole point of doing a cantilever is to keep the shocks under the bed or out of the interior. You can get 19” of travel with the shocks under the bed so there is no point to doing so. A 4Runner is a different story

 

Next question is a for real question. How much of a concern is axle wrap when going to SUA? I know I have some pretty decent wrap as of now and I'm not sure if I should plan to add an anti wrap in or not.

I know wrap is supposed to be decreased with SUA, But ive taken note that some have added anti wrap bars in even after going SUA.

 

It’s way better with SUA and even better with the HD pack

 

In that case, I will just feel it out.

 

SUA is the sweet spot. 4k... that's for the kit, add on shocks, etc. It's a lot of cash for another 1-2" travel compared to SUA. Frame notch will get you a little more...stupid $$$$ amount of work unless DIY. And at that point, invest in a 4link and a back half and get another vehicle for the groceries and shopping bags.