Fox coil over adjusters NOT turning

I installed my coilovers over the weekend and I just noticed the high speed adjuster is not turning on both front shocks, rears seem to turn fine.
So do I just need the helper tool to get it to turn or is it necessary to take everything apart and reassemble?

 

I would try and get a really firm grip on there to really try and get that initial turn. Also, try both ways just to be sure they are not already open. We've had a few sent in to us, and we were able to turn them by hand... just difficult. More difficult on the truck, in the fender where its hard to get to.

 

I’m having this same problem. I just installed brand new FOX 2.5 shocks tuned by accutune. They have maybe 100 miles on them and I just tried to adjust the DSC knobs for the first time. 3 of the 4 adjusters work fine, but one will not turn either direction even with gloves on (both high and low speed knobs). I contacted FOX and Accutune. Accutune (who answered right away) recommended taking the DSC knobs apart which I will try today. FOX hasn’t responded to my call yet.

For those of you who have resolved this issue was it basically a matter of applying enough force to break the knobs free or did you have to send them back for repair?

I know things happen but I’m honestly pretty disappointed that this shock made it past both Fox and Accutune’s quality control without being noticed. Especially with this being a known issue.

 

PM sent!

Please do not force the knobs open with any tools or anything like that. You risk snapping the c-clip on the inside holding everything together.

 

Thank you @AccuTune Offroad for reaching out so quickly. I removed the remote resi for more leverage like you recommended and tried again. Shamefully even with gloves I still was too weak to turn the knob. Eventually I turned in my man card and let my friend have a crack at it. He's a beast and managed to break it free (pretty sure i loosened it). Its still supper stiff and i owe him beers, but at least it will turn now.

 

If you’re asking, probably not. But they can be very helpful. When rock crawling, you want really soft shocks. When racing through the sandy desert with massive whoops, you may want to firm up the low speed compression. When hauling heavy loads, like a roof top tent, you may want to firm use the low speed compression. When traveling a really bear up forest road with lots of pot holes, you may want to firm up high speed compression to prevent bottom out. When jumping… hopefully you see now.

 

Same here. After two weeks on the truck. I can’t turn one at all. I’m afraid if I force it, I’ll break it internally.

 

There’s typically 200PSI nitrogen pressure. Oil pressure at rest would be the same, but oil pressure across the shim stack, and the valve would be zero. Only during movement is there pressure across the shim stack or valve.
In my short time with these, I found that they get sticky. I used a roofing nail in the holes around the edge, and now I have the Range DSC helper.

 

Edited 3/29/22. Here’s what I think is the issue. A chemical is causing galvanic corrosion and the residue is depositing on the ball bearings. Or perhaps residual cleaner present at time of assembly is causing the corrosion. Either way, the corroded ball bearings make the HSC adjuster difficult to turn. Corrosion between the HSC adjustment shaft and LSC adjustment shaft is making the LSC adjuster difficult to turn. The solution is to open the adjusters, clean the parts, lubricate with Slick Honey , and reassemble. Be careful with the adjusters removed. The LSC shaft is retained by the HSC adjuster. If you thread it out too far, it will come out with 200 pounds of force if you haven’t relieved the nitrogen pressure.

 

I purchased this knob and it works flawlessly

https://range-industries.com/products/fox-dsc-adjustment-helper-knob

 

My experience is that it will work for a while. But once corrosion starts, there’s no stopping it. By forcing the movement with the range helper, the stuck balls are casually causing grooves in the bottom of the adjuster. Eventually, it won’t move.

 

I’m thinking about taking the knobs off and lubing the ball bearings. What kind of lubricant should be used?

Is white lithium grease okay?

 

I’m impressed with the level of range provided by your clickers. My experience with MX left clickers to fine-tune levels; otherwise, restack.

 

Edited 3/29/22. I can’t guide you on that unfortunately, but it couldn’t be worse than no grease. The balls and detents are only there to add the “click.” So it’s not overly critical as long as it lasts and doesn’t gum up, or cause corrosion. Anything with a pH other than neutral could contribute to corrosion.

I asked Fox and they confirmed they use slick honey. Here’s a photo of the front shock I just got. They use what appears to be Slick Honey. We use that on mountain bike shocks and forks, and it’s available online. I’m not confident it’s a long lasting weather resistant grease. It doesn’t last long on mountain bikes.

 

Where did you get yours?

 

does the input shaft for the high speed not have threads? I'm assuming by your pictures that the high speed knob is what has the threads for the allen key keeper pins.. unless the input shaft on yours stripped when you took them apart. do you have any pictures of the highspeed knob on its own?

 

I don't think you need a chemical to cause that galvanic corrosion; since those ball bearings are steel, and the knob is aluminum, galvanic corrosion will happen regardless. I'm pretty sure your best preventative maintenance will be to take it apart and paint it with never seize.
for reference: when I rebuilt my coil-overs, the wiper cap was pretty much welded on with corrosion.. I needed to use a pipe wrench and heat to spin those fuckers off. it destroyed the wiper caps.. i bought new ones and painted those threads with never seize when I reassembled. Im sure they'll come apart no problem next time.

 

I’m not sure that I understand your question, but I’ll try to answer. The low speed adjuster is a brass shaft. The high speed adjuster is a hollow shaft around the low speed shaft. The high speed knob has three threaded holes for the set screws, and the high speed shaft has a place for the high speed adjuster set screws to clamp onto.

Because I accidentally unthreaded my low speed shaft with the high speed knob off, I learned the hard way why it’s important to relieve nitrogen pressure before doing this work. The brass shaft shaped like a bullet shot out with 200 pounds of hydraulic force, and so did most of the oil, covering the underside and side of my Jeep. the high speed knob prevents the low speed shaft from being unthreaded too far.

luckily, Fox repaired it. I think they are also curious to know what’s causing this. They said they haven’t seen others corroded like mine. So if anyone sees corrosion like I saw, be sure to send photos. But!!! And I stress. Do not unthread the low speed shaft when the high speed knob is off. It could kill you.

 

You answered my question about where the threads were, thanks. Yikes that's lucky you didn't get injured!

 

Hey there. I've decided I'm going to tear down my coilovers and figure out what's going on with my DSC adjusters. I'm thinking the c clip that holds the valve stack together must have popped off. I feel it's just as likely the 3 Allen key screws that couple the high speed adjuster have sheared off the high speed input shaft. Have you ever seen this happen? Do you know what causes the high speed adjuster knob to become so difficult to rotate? All I can think of is corrosion. Still, when I had the coilovers apart for the rebuild the adjusters seemed much easier to move. Possible something to do with the spring preload?