Lift kit disaster

Coos Bay Toyota. Nothing was cut.

 

The lift us a Fabtech.

 

If your truck is a 4x4 and has a 6” Fabtech DB lift, the front crossmember is cut.

 

you can see in the opening post that it’s not 4wd. There is no front diff.

 

OPs profile says SR5 4x4.

 

You keep correcting people who say it's a DB lift with "it's a fabtech lift".
You are confusing the
MANUFACTURER of the lift
with
STYLE of the lift.

A DB (Drop Bracket) lift is made by multiple manufacturers.
It is a "style" of lift. It's not uncommon, but is also kinda "frowned upon".

Fabtech makes multiple styles of lift.
They make suspension lifts, they make drop bracket lifts.

Many other manufacturers make Drop Bracket (DB) lifts.
Many other manufactures make "suspension lifts".
(there are some other types as well)

It's possible to have a DB lift that is from Fabtech.
It's possible to have a Fabtech lift that isn't and Drop Bracket (DB) lift.

You happen to have a DB lift from Fabtech.

 

After reading all 4 pages… I’ve real sized this thread has the perfect name.

 

This is the opening act.

 

Back to the dealer she goes then.

 

Hahaha it’s not meant to be a dig. It’s just kinda true.

 

Haha. The truth doesn’t care about people’s feelings!

 

The sway-bar mount only holds the sway bar against the frame. Normally, all the forces at that location should be upwards, or shared between the wheels when the bar is performing it’s function.

Toyota never made that mounting point robust (small bolts and weld nuts in the thin frame tube) because they didn’t expect it to see large forces.

I would argue, whomever engineered that lift kit (assuming it was properly installed) did not properly design the overall geometry of the lift, resulting in a relatively weak mounting point seeing huge forces trying to tear the mount out of the frame, which it was never designed to do.

Rust or no rust, that light-duty mounting point was never designed for the forces it appears to have been subjected to.

 

If dealer will not warranty cover it and it all falls on you: Get a piece of 1/4" plate steel maybe 1"x6" (whatever size fits inside the frame and extends beyond holes). Drill holes that match up. Put the plate on the top side of the frame rail sandwiching the frame. Put bolts all the way through with lock nut.

Update: actually 1/8" or 3/16" plate would probably be more than enough. The frame itself is pretty thin.

 

I realized that layer. Apologies for my ignorance. I am not mechanically inclined.

 

Exactly what the 2 repair shops said.

 

I've seen my local dealer do this to a Tundra and FJ in the showroom, then add $20K to the sticker. The dealer doesn't even do the mod work themselves, they outsource it to a 4WheelParts two hours away.

I suspect any shop warranty the dealer had would have expired after 3 years. It's a reasonably easy repair at any off-road fabrication shop though - just clean up the torn holes on the frame, then weld the Fabtech sway bar extensions to the frame.

 

My truck came with 315s from the dealer

 

What did they do to make them fit?

 

Same thing for him DB lift. Mine has the fox shocks still and I added UCA. Lot of dealers in Florida do it. My truck has lifetime warranty as long as I don’t sell it. Prob wouldn’t of bought it without the warranty. Need bigger rims tho 35s are far to big for the trd pro rims.