2TR-FE 130 amp alternator + regulator upgrade for AGM batteries

Done,
Ordered!


Thanks RockAuto for the 5% discount, Thanks @05Taco4x4 for putting in the leg work.

 

Thanks for the reply. Didn't specify if that was the exact one. Knowing my luck i would buy something and it would be the wrong part.

 

lol no worries dude, yeah that's the one

 

Dang!
Toyotapartsdirect.ca & my local dealer can't "find" this part number
91553-81060 Bolt (longer)
even though I can google find it in the US

anyone have the specs on the bolt? I'd like to have this beforehand so I can get this done in one shot.

 

RockAuto Delivered!

 

Pull the one in your block and get the thread, length and then add the thickness of the third leg on the new one to the length and you'll have it.

 

There is also a direct bolt in option from these guys for 220amp oem fitment. This is the route im going to take beings i have the URD kit installed already. The listing is for a 2005-2006 but they also offer 2007-2016 2trfe but the new model 2trfe are only 200amp. Makes me wonder if it’s a crank pulley difference

https://www.powerbastards.com/proddetail.asp?prod=11194-220-HD1-1

 

There goes next months spending money.. Thanks..

 

Your welcome, make sure to replace your factory charge wire with a larger diameter or at least overlay it with a second ofc copper lead from the head post to the battery to ensure you dont melt the oem cable in the event that the full capacity is used. Nothing worse than melted undersized cables.

I have the 220amp alt at home currently. Need to do the install/rewire while the engine is out for a rebuild

 

COPY! I love running bigger wire when I can. Great advice, thanks. My 16 is the newest vehicle I have ever owned.

 

great writeup on the alternator upgrade. I just ordered one for my 2tr-fe swapped 4runner, however there is one thing to note about people who have 07+ 2tr-fe trucks. the 130 amp Hiace alternator (DENSO 210-0811) is a "early" style with a fixed pulley. In 2007 Toyota switched to running a decoupler pulley on the alternator. due to how the decoupler pulley functions it allowed Toyota to get away with a softer belt tensioner to get (slightly) better fuel economy. If you have a 07+ truck you need to switch to a heavier 05-06 tensioner assembly to avoid belt problems.

 

Can you swap the pulley?

@05Taco4x4 Have you had any issues with your belt? Did you swap the tensioner?

 

I believe the end of the shaft of the alternator is different and the pulley can't be swapped. I am assuming the OPs truck is a 05 judging by his username so there is no reason to swap the tensioner.

 

It is a 2005

 

Long-shot raising this after such a long time.
Can you explain what "belt problems" mean/express, and what the replacing of the tensioner entails?

My alternator just died on my 07' Manual Trans 4WD 2.7L.
I probably contributed by installing a 50A charger (although my meter never read above 35A) on a secondary Lithium battery for camping.
Thinking I probably pushed it too far I got really excited about this mod and just ordered from RockAuto the 130A.
Hoped I'd be able to pull this off, but now am unsure how easy would be coming up with a 05'-06' tensioner...
Any advice welcome and references welcome!

 

What voltage and type of Lithium are you running? Also what type of isolator? Charging two different type of battery chemistry is not the best thing for most alternators and depending on what voltages they are designed for it can really stress the alternator if they are different.

 

I got the Renogy 50A DC-DC Charger and a generic 100AH LLiFePO4 battery off Amazon, and I have a manual switch to control when its charging (often closed).

I'm guessing it's both age and increased wear I put the poor alternator through while charging now and then pulling an additional 30-40 amps. That's mostly why I thought of upgrading the Alt - and for if I ever need more juice (installing a winch or something, but that far down the line).

I already ordered the 130A alternator so hoping can make this work...

 

Yeah, I think you are right in that it was a combination of age, output and load that killed it. Due to the design of the LiFePO4 cells you actually need to be able to charge at 14.6V optimally. The Renogy unit compensates for this, but at the cost of drawing more amperage to do it. I would also do the regulator upgrade suggested in this thread and swap your starting battery out to an AGM one, if it isn't already. That way both batteries will be designed to charge at around the same voltage and you'll be putting less strain on the alternator from the additional draw of the DC-DC charger having to up the voltage. The upgraded output is going to help to alleviate the charging issue somewhat, but starting with the right voltage will make a marked improvement in longevity.

 

What's the advantage installing an AGM for the truck? I've been doing fine with just my secondary lithium for my minimal needs.
I wasn't considering doing the regulator change as my DC-DC charger (main reason for this upgrade) can compensate and wanted to keep it simple (and cheap) for now, though it's definitely within my ability.
My stock engine battery seems fine, but it may be close to its lifetime so now you got me thinking.

Still not sure about the pulley/belt tensioner if anyone can advise - what are the implications if I keep my existing one?

 

The main advantage of doing the regulator upgrade in your case is that the DC-DC charger won't have to work as hard and won't draw as much amperage from the alternator since the output voltage will be much closer to what the lithium battery needs to see for charging. If you do the regulator upgrade you should change the starter battery to an AGM one so that you aren't overcharging it. AGMs take a higher charging voltage than lead acid batteries. The main goal of doing all of this would be to put less stress on all the components. THE DC-DC charger would be doing less work for the same result which in turn puts less stress on the alternator.

The down side of all this is, of course, the cost. You've already spent money on the new alternator and now you would be adding the costs of doing the regulator mod and an AGM battery, which aren't cheap.

You could just put the alternator in and run everything as it has been running. The higher output of the new alternator will most likely handle all of this fine, it's more of a long term wear issue than anything else. If you don't want to spend the money right now, just put the new alternator in and check to see what voltages you are getting at the battery and the input side of the DC-DC charger. If it holds at or above 13.8 then it's not really much of an issue. If it's between 13.4-13.8 then definitely consider upgrading. Below 13.4 it's not happy and it's time to do the upgrades.

In answer to the tensioner, you are looking at possible belt slippage is what I got from reading the thread. Again it can be a try it and see type of thing. You may get no slippage or if you do then you know that you need the older style tensioner.