Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Only if you speak fluent canadian

 

Being nice and ending my sentences with Eh? or French?

 

I wish I could speak French. It's just a vibe, y'know? Haha

 

I know what Toonies are so I can handle transactions in $2 CAD

 

Yeah basically converts directly to a one dollar note in usd

 

Yes mine was a kit, really doesn’t solve any of the problems.

Good luck, I planned a road trip to pick mine up, had follow up calls for 2 weeks leading up to picking them up. And they still stood me up and I was only able to get them because mark the owner answered a message on IG.

 

unfortunately you are exaggerating because the US dollar is only around 1.2 over the Canuck dollar eh’… I really miss when it was actually 2x because we used to be able to take heli boarding trips up there for half price

 

After shipping and import duties it might as well be 2x !

 

We had a choice of French or Spanish in high school. They told me to take Spanish because it would be more useful to me.

I ended up living in the South of France/Monaco for a summer and part of fall and couldn’t understand shit. Luckily most folks spoke English, but still. I would really like to know what the old ladies were yelling at me at the market. On top of it all I don’t remember any Spanish

 

My buddy made it out in the language in life.
Spent child hood summers in Ecuador as a kid. Did 3yrs high school in France. His dad is Ukrainian, who's extended family lives in Canada. 1st he had dual citizenship Canada and US. Speaks, English, Spanish, French, Ukrainian and can make it other Russian languages.
Works in sales to high end clients. Makes a killing.

 

Nice! English tends to be the language for business. I’ve been to 13 countries and haven’t had too difficult of a time finding someone who speaks English, at least in the major cities. I’ve never stayed anywhere long enough to really absorb another culture- just visited. I think that takes years and definitely have to speak the language haha

 

Same minus the living abroad.

 

So, let’s have a discussion on solid mounting the engine and trans. I’ve been on the fence about this for a while.

My line of thinking is this. If you’re going to solid mount the engine, you also need to do the same with the transmission or it’s likely not going to jive together as it should. And I see potential for added stress on the bell housing.

Another thing I see being a potential problem is losing the cushion to the driveline which in theory could add additional stresses to the driveline. But maybe I am wrong on this? I personally don’t have much experience in this department so I would love to hear some theories from others.

I see many pros and cons to this. And I am trying to figure out if the pros outweigh the cons.

 

“Solid” mounting like the kits that are out there still use a poly bushing. So it isn’t truly solid as you’d see in a tube chassis race car, just a lot more solid than the ultra squishy stock mounts.

Yes it’s recommended to do both the engine and trans. And yes it probably does add stress to the driveline but it would be minimal at most.

In my opinion it is a well worth it upgrade to anyone bouncing their truck around off road, or looking to out the power to the ground better on the street.

 

I’ll also add that the guy who sells the mounts on here says it’s not totally necessary to do both at once, that plenty of people only do the engine and still see benefits and hasn’t had anyone come back saying it adds issues.


I’ll get the trans mount too at some point but not right away.

 

The OEM trans Mount is pretty stiff which is probably why just cleaning up the front mounts works for so many.

The DMZ three piece kit is great. No issues on mine or the others I know that have installed. Same with @Bonzen. I think the large numbers who have installed speak well for the upgrade.

I remember being convinced when @jjhitchen showed contact between his AC lines and the frame due to the OEM mounts having so much slop.
Plus it stops the possibility of contact between my URD headers and coil gussets for the same reason.

I also noticed a strange oscillation noise that resonated annoyingly with my exhaust drone disappeared after install.

…I also welded the 05/06 DMZ frame perch gussets on my 2012 while I was in there. Super easy install for some added insurance. They fit perfectly. Solo makes them as well.

 

It's typically recc to do all the mounts so the "flex" is all equal. Not sure it really matters on the yota or newer vehicles as much. My XJ has poly bushings for the motor mounts and trans no issues and it has several years of hard wheeling with them no driveline issues due to the mounts. Wheeling in general is harder on driveline parts so that's kinda a mute point in my book. I'd do it it's on my list.

 

If you solid mount your motor (poly bushings) then it’s foolish to not do the same to your tranny. I don’t understand only doing the motor mounts? Are you trying to save a few dollars by not doing the tranny mount? Makes no sense to me.

As for the drive line it’s not going to have any impact. What saves the driveline is an automatic transmission. The torque converter acts as a fluid dampener which eliminates shock loads seen through the rear end/tranny. This is especially critical for trucks that see lots of whoops. Building a manual transmission that can handle the abuse of high speed desert stuff can cost a small fortune. The tranny I had built for my 81 cost 8 times as much as an auto that would have the same strength. The reason I went this route is because an auto robs 35-40% of your power where as the manual only takes away 10%. I’m trying to maximize HP to the rear wheels so I went with the expensive manual.

 

So long story short, it is worthwhile and best if all 3 are done together. Now, coming from the car world where I’ve spent much of my time learning. Delrin was always the top dog for true high performance applications when it came to engine mounts. I have seen some poly bushings fail over time from simply being around oil or fumes. Would delrin be the best route in this case as well?

I would like to build a set myself if it’s justifiable just for a winter project when I’m bored.

 

Delrin is going to be solid and not allow any flex. I would put this in the category of tube chassis options but again at that point, just truly solid mount it. For a Tacoma, even a very well built one, poly bushings are probably just fine and can be replaced as needed