The Lair

Great Value. I use the caffeinated for work and the non-caffeinated for home. Tons of flavors, most are pretty good. Only one's I don't care much for are the pink and regular lemonade since they seem to make me more thirsty than quench it. I really like the non-caffeinated flavor pina colada and melon. They also have electrolyte mixes which are nice for after sweating a bunch like after mowing.

 

Holy shit Dan.....so sorry to hear what you went through.....glad everything came out ok.

 

If I am not mistaken you have a Softopper and KBvoodoo bed rails
I have the same
How do you manage this combo?

I'm struggling to make them work but believe there may be a way
So far I have shaved down the mounting clamps a bit, so they can tighten, to try and clamp the Softopper rails flush/flat.
I might not have grinded them down enough material shaved off so I will try some more again.
It's kind of a pain because the fine dense aluminum they are made out of
1. clogs the bench grinder wheel fast
2. heats up fast, hard to hold in your hands
3. kind of difficult to get a perfectly level smooth shave on it; maybe I need to clamp it in a vice and use an angle grinder + 40 grit flap disc wheel by eye to try and get a nice finish and sacrifice/ruin 1 wheel (worth it, they're cheap)

I really hope there is a way to get the fantastic Softopper that was designed to clamp over the factory garbage plastic rails, to work with KBvoodoo awesome rails/bedside tops

 

Kinda but not really. I made some similar bedside caps myself out of 1/8” steel. I also used to have a softopper on them. I didn’t need to modify anything to get the softopper to bolt on.

 

How’s the tundra rack going? Are your new motor mounts taller to clear the rack? Did you go with a solid (more solid/uranthane bushing) mount?

 

I’m still on hold waiting for the new mounts. I went with an aftermarket one made with poly bushings. It should lift the engine back up to where it needs to be and also keep it from flopping around. I can also shim up the mounts with some plate steel for a little more clearance if needed.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...abricated-solid-motor-mounts-for-sale.406631/

 

Have to give those a try.

 

I've come to the lair for assistance, I've been following the banter for the last few months and figured I could drop my issues here in hopes of finding answers. I have already read through the forums and threads and had most of my questions answered, just seeking other opinions because I am only one man (small brain)


2007 trd off road, 90,000 miles odo, AT trans, 4.0v6
Short story -
road trip = 3 hours from home , transfer case actuator gets stuck in 4hi , couldn't get anything to disengage. Called YotaMasters in socal they said pull the front drive shaft to get home. Pulled front drive shaft got home , now she's sitting still in "4hi" no front drive shaft and toyota dealer wants $1,200 for a new actuator before labor and all the other costs.

Doing some research looks like swapping the FJ transfer case is the best route with all the trouble I have to go through for just the actuator.
I have local shops saying they can do the swap and are trying to source the case to do it. I just need enough information about this to ensure no one is pulling a blanket over my eyes and taking any shortcuts.

Im tracking:
Fj transfer case for the 4.0 / Automatic w/ the manual 4x4 shift lever and knob if you can get it
Some of the internals have to be switched out to marry up to the tacoma guts (still narrowing down what exactly it is)
Then the debates i've seen over the ADD and going fj solid tube to delete or not / or exactly how to wire it. There seems to be a lot of opinions on this.

Regardless, if any one has anything to add or to correct me on please fire and forget as its greatly appreciated

 

You want a case out of an FJ with an AT. It’ll mate up to your AT with no modifications. The only time the cases need to be opened up and guts swapped is if you had an MT, like I did. So that part of the swap is easy as you just drop your case and install the new one.

Here is the case you want. LKQ is a reputable used parts dealer and I bought mine from them, also through eBay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-4Runner-FJ-Cruiser-Transfer-Case-Assembly-101K-OEM-LKQ-/313378300044






For the add portion, you have a couple of options.

• leave the ADD/tube but leave it always engaged. This is achieved by shifting the truck in 4hi (which you already are) and then unplug the 4wd ecu behind the glovebox. This removes any dash light errors.
  
• Leave the add/tube but wire it up for independent operation. So you still retain the minor benefits of the ADD but are still prone to ADD actuator failure.
  
• Swap over to a FJ tube which is solid/no ADD. Costs about $300 in parts to do this. This is equivalent to leaving the ADD engaged all the time.

I switched to 4hi and unplugged my 4wd ecu, leaving the add always engaged. It’s easy and free. I haven’t noticed any loss in MPG from the front diff/driveshaft spinning all the time.

Hopefully this clears things up.

 

Good mormimg lair! Feeling pretty spry this morming. Got to sleep in my own bed last night and am finally home from the hospital! Still on supplemental oxygen. But at least home!

 

That was everything I needed, thanks a ton

 

I’ve been looking at those for a while. I’ll be interested to know what you think about them once you get everything back together.

 

Everything I’ve read about them is positive. I think your truck is a great recipient of them! Trans mounts too.

 

I like that whoever organized this chose an image that clearly is not even remotely in VA

 

That’s how us Virginians picture the blue ridge mountains.

 

I bet

 

Are you gonna get the reinforcements while you're at it from DMZ?

 

No, I don’t think it’s necessary. I also have the updated frame so I don’t have the fear of the crappy early second gen frame where the engine mounts to and cracks.

 

Didn't know there was a difference. Guess I'd be fine then with the 2.5 gen?

 

Yeah definitely. The guy who makes the mounts says sure, you could gusset the frame but there’s not really a need.