1st Gen Lunchtable Thread - General Discussion

Hmmm

 

If it works it works! Probably!

I don't have any kind of press here, which seems to be kind of a key item. At least if you want to do it smoothly.

And time is in short supply these days.

 

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Coming soon - Integration with DoorDash!

 

Yea a press is kinds critical :/ the 20 ton harbor freight one worked good enough and they're cheap. But it doesn't help with the time thing lol

 

I want a press, but I'd have to park it in the kitchen

I don't mind the lack of time, been having a lot of fun lately. Maybe it'll slow down this fall and I can spend some time installing the shit I bought last year

 

Sweet. Battery has a shorted cell too. One more problem and I'll have a nice trifecta.

 

Your extended warranty has expired

 

Freehand. I don't get good lines with those tools either. Taping takes a long time and I find I end up with bad lines anyway

 

Shit, thanks for reminding I need to pull the battery out of the Tacoma and try to charge it

 

I'm getting ready to pull the driver-side CV axle to replace the seal. I'm going to take @Speedytech7 suggestion and avoid breaking the axle splines loose -- and not f*king with preload, spring clips, and all that by releasing the ball joints. I have a new OEM seal. Salute OEM.

Why did this seal only last one year?

Taking a closer look at this seal, it does have an inner and outer seal and a lip. The outer lip should keep dust out of the inner seal areas.

But the two inner and outer seals are different sizes. The inner seal has a slightly smaller ID. The outer seal has a slightly larger ID. The outer lip is even larger.

The reason I think the seal had such a short life is mud collected between the outer seal (the one with the slightly larger ID) and the inner seal that should be keeping mud, water, and dust out of the front differential. I'm disappointed in a design that doesn't use the same size seal for both inner and outer when the CV axle shaft that the seal rides on is the same size.

It seems strange. So I go look at a Nissan seal from National and both inner and outer are the same ID. The CV axle dust cover buts up against the outer seal.

Having both seals the same size appears to keep mud, water, and dirt out at the first layer. The second layer provides another layer of protection and I think is designed to keep the lubricant inside the front diff. They call it the double seal lip approach.

It looks to me like that as long as I continue to do mud crossings, mud will collect in between the outer seal and the inner seal and cause the seal to wear.

Let me take the damn thing apart and see if this is the case. I'm not crazy about mud crossings. But they are a regular occurrence here.






Nissan seal - outer rim and inner appear to be the same size.

 

Oh no. Not again.




I'm not going back to jail!

 

He's just been trying to reach you about your extended warranty

 

Ooooook


Still trying to bleed brakes.


I out a clear tube on the bleeder and out the other end in a bottle of brake fluid. Go pump the brakes, push the pedal down, release, the caliper sucks fluid out of the bottle, 1/2 way up the hose. Push the pedal down again, fluid in hose goes back into cup, release the brake pedal and the fluid comes half way up the hose again.

repeat


So to me this means the brake valve must have air in it?

 

Did the MC go dry at any point?

 

just saw a guy who saved his gf from gunpoint over an argument with their roommate. Got pistol whipped and had a brain bleed x 2 months while he finished his master's degree without knowing it


meanwhile i bitched about being up for work early this morning haha

 

Oh no way, you guys use the same cv axle seal?

That part number correlates with the passenger side for us Tacoma/4Runner guys.

 

It started dry out of the box, tried to bench bleed but the little plugs they sent sucked ass, figured I’d try it on the truck, apparently it’s not working.

going to get a different bleed kit

 

I used the dorman bleed kit, worked great despite being cheap.

 

I really help air in the cylinder is the problem.

if not it’s going to the shop for them to deal with.

 

Engine should be off while tube and cup 1 man bleeding