MT Accumulator Delete Mod (ADM) and BS Thread

before the ADM i had no identifiable 'bite point'. and i looked for it every shift, never found. after the ADM it came pretty clear and consistently so. after i did more work on the system it became as clear as day with 3 thumps at release from the bite point every shift, amazing amounts of detail.

bite point.

 

Did this mod a few days ago. Clutch instantly felt better. I did a full removal on a 4.0 6MT, only needed the brass coupler from the original post. Gravity bled the system, topped off fluid, and away I was. Best mod I've done to any vehicle I've owned.

 

I did the Dremel method today. I’m really happy with the results. The truck now shifts like a proper manual transmission vehicle should. Thanks to all here who shared instructions, photos, and reviews with their experiences doing the mod.

 

Hey, so, for anyone and everyone struggling with the bleed. Pick up the cheap pneumatic bleeder. This one on Amazon is the same one as from Harbor Freight. But it makes the bleed take a few minutes. I originally got this for motorcycles, but it's probably one of my most loved tools because you get a perfect bleed every time.

https://amzn.to/2WISAsc

 

I'm glad that it worked for you, but I failed miserably with vacuum bleeders on clutches (one bike and one car). I've used them on brakes with no problems.

 

Thats weird. I've always used this for both clutches and brakes. They basically work the same. I wonder why the clutch would give you a problem?

 

It could have been at least a few things:
-- Undersized compensation ports allowing the complete loss of system pressure?
-- The lack of strong return springs?
-- Master cylinders not in 100% great shape? I found this similar problem doing a typical bleed with a worn clutch master.


It was about an hour of careful pumping and bleeding to get pressure back in the system. The only thing that I know for sure is that the reservoirs did not go empty, so it was not an air problem.

Hydraulic clutches are typically starkly simple mechanisms, but those two beat me up. I've steered clear of vacuum bleeders since.

 

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

 

All right you freaks, geeks, @tonered , @Shellshock, and @Grossomotto , I finally tackled the metal clutch pedal install. Yes it's as much of a pain in the a$$ as it looks like it might be. It'll help to be less than half a century old, and have your Webster's Dictionary of Vulgarity handy.


1. Note: Your truck may have a different layout for the clutch reservoir. Toyota uses two different braking/clutch systems. In my case, the clutch shares the system with the brakes. Shove a bunch of rags into the area below the lines going to the clutch master cylinder; you do not want brake fluid all over your paint. Remove the lines going to the clutch master cylinder. Clamp off the rubber hose as close to the firewall as possible, unless you feel like bleeding your brakes. After you remove the rubber hose and steel line, have a helper slowly depress the clutch pedal while you hold a small container, or more rags, under the two ports in the firewall. This will remove most of the fluid in the master cylinder, so it doesn't end up inside your truck.



2. Now the fun starts. Contort yourself under the driver's side foot well, so you can look at the left side of the clutch pedal assembly. You'll see an electrical connector about midway up. This one is fairly easy to remove.



Now look at the very top of the clutch pedal assembly. There's another electrical connector up there. There is just enough play in the wiring to allow you to remove the clutch pedal assembly from the firewall, and THEN unplug the connector. I recommend waiting until that point, just don't forget to disconnect it.



3. It's time to remove some nuts and bolt. You WILL need a universal socket joint and long extension. I used a 10" extension. You will also need a small 1/4" ratchet and 1/4" 12mm socket.

On the left side of the clutch pedal assembly, you will see a 10mm bolt with a Phillips head. To the right of that bolt is a 12mm nut that is barely visible. Use your extension, universal joint, and sockets to remove them. Good luck.



4. Were you lucky enough to be able to remove the nut and bolt in step three? Well, you're about to get bitch slapped by karma. Position yourself on your back and look up to the top of the clutch pedal assembly, around the area of the top electrical connector I mentioned earlier. You have to remove a 12mm bolt by feel, using your 1/4 socket wrench and socket. The bolt head points to the rear of the truck.



5. You still here? Good for you! Put an old towel on the driver's side floor to catch any brake fluid as you remove the assembly. Remove the last, easily accessible, nut, and maneuver the assembly out of the vehicle. Don't forget to undo that upper electrical connection!!!



6. Now it's just a matter of disassembling the old parts and assembling the new. Installation is the reverse order of removal, but you'll need some way to keep the left side nut and bolt in the socket as you feed them in with the extension. I used some painter's tape.



7. Bleed your clutch. Use an assistant. The clutch pedal will not return on its own until almost all of the air is out of the system, so don't freak out if your assistant has to pull the pedal up after depressing it each time. You won't succeed by using the gravity bleed method in this case.

Was it worth all of the effort? I suppose so. My clutch had *just* started making the creaking noise, so something needed to be done anyway. The engagement point is now midway though the pedal travel, instead of at the very top, which is nice, and it's dead silent at the moment. I really wanted to replace the stock spring with a linear spring, but the 3rd gens are missing an attachment point for the spring It could probably be duplicated by hose clamping something in that area, but I didn't want to spend any more time with my body in that crazy position.

 

I'm sorry for your struggle, but I'm very happy for you. i hope it's worth it in the end like it is for me. engagement halfway up, not at the top, solid, smooth, & perfectly quiet same as the day it went in about a year and a half ago.

 

Going to be installing the ADM hose I picked up from another user soon. Am I good to bleed the system with a regular gravity fed "one man bleeder kit" or do I need something more specialized?

Also looking at adjusting my engagement point on the pedal if anyone has insight on that. Thanks!

 

Get your pitch forks out, as it has been said I am sure. Couldn't find an option to search the thread? Anyways here it goes.

How will this mod mess up factory warranty? I am really loving the truck, the shifting is awkward as hell and I am at 1500 miles and ready to get the control I wanted when purchasing a manual....

I've been driving manual since I turned 16 on beaters ('95 Civic, '95 Wrangler, '06 Wrangler) and I this truck makes me wonder if I know what I am doing.

 

I felt the same way, I still have yet to install my hard line to see if it's different. Another major thing that I've seen really help it feel correct when shifting is to get a tune. The Coyoza tune is one developed specifically for the manuals

 

Just want to know the implications to warranties at this point, I'll do it today once I get some learnin' on the matter.

 

If you opt for the dremmel choice, unless they disassemble and inspect there's really no way to know it was changed. I doubt anyone will really notice especially if it looks like it belongs

 

The dremel method breaks the the seal of the piston in the accumulator basically freezing it?? I've read like 50 pages of this thread and 25 was BS and 25 was a guy trying to sell a kit lmao.

Search on this website is mediocre and I am LAZY

 

It just allows the fluid to flow through it quickly instead of being "accumulated" in there before pushing it out.

 

Aaah, and I am seeing a few imagines of some sort of seal?

 

Yeah I'm not sure, do you have an example of said picture?