Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

DMZ seems to have both ends covered for you. Gotta call Tim to order. They are not on the website.

 

If I were to buy them DMZ is definitely who I would go with. I’m honestly just looking for a winter project lol.

 

Just go poly you'll be fine.

 

Another reason the automatic tacomas out there could use the stall converter mod. Keep the engine in the power band where the transmission is more efficient and let the good times roll. So many HP parasites in these trucks. Getting rid of the fan blade alone and going to electric would probably get us 15-20% back and the truck would finally have some usable power.

 

Meh, fans aren’t robbing that much HP. And honestly it would likely be a draw by the time you upgraded the alternator to keep up with a fan or fan’s.

 

added benefit of better cooling. well worth it for desert folk.

 

Better cooling is worth it for anybody that wheels. I’d venture to say, slow wheeling is likely worse than desert in that department.

 

heat happens for everyone, and whatever you can do to keep it cool and cranking out power...that's the solution.

 

Electric fans suck, manual fans work so much better

 

At speed I’ll agree with that. Been a few times slow moving in the heat where I really had to watch temps though. I’ve considered adding a pusher as a secondary to the pump driven fan.

Plus, it would keep the AC working better lol.

 

I was thinking the same about adding a secondary fan. At least in a manual it’s easy enough to rev up the engine for a minute to drop temps, which I’ve had to do before

 

Adding a pusher behind the grill would work well for this. Wouldn’t be a difficult task. Put it on a 200* switch and you’d be golden. If it ever fails you still have your primary. Win win.

 

Lots of threads Ive been apart of on this forum, but the main details are as follows...

Delrin or aluminum or polycarbonate bushings are too hard and brittle for a factory frame and cab truck. Those bushings will crack and transmit alot of harmonics to the driver. Something like that should only be used in a full tube chassis fully caged vehicle, as previously stated.

Polyurethane - Ive found that the extra harmonics, if they are noticed at all, only noticeable at idle and its very minimal. Ive never had a customer message me and complain about it. I'm talking over 15+ years of selling these and hundreds sold. An aftermarket exhaust system puts more vibrations and harmonics into the drivers senses IMO. Same with aggressive off road tires. Ive never felt anything extra in the steering wheel myself and never heard of that from a customer either. Ive had the same amount of customers message me on this forum, and on the Instagram page that the truck actually ran and shifted smoother once the upgraded motor mounts were installed. So its really a personal thing, there is not a fool proof way to judge what every different person would consider NVH. But remember, we are building off road trucks and modyfying them away from the plush OE specifications so if you want a cadillac, buy a cadillac.

The 2nd gen tacoma motor mount failure rate with offroading is pretty high, as is the case with all these OEM toyota motor mounts. 1st gen tacomas were just as bad if not worse. the frame perches of both generations are also prone to cracking and caving in.

I started making custom fabricated drivetrain mounts back in 2003 when we were off road racing in the deserts of SoCal, Nevada and Baja. A solid mounted drivetrain is a standard setup on any off road truck that is raced or used as a prerunner. Running OEM mounts off road in a race would result in a broken race truck immediately and losing the race. Any of you guys that have ran your trucks in the desert know how abusive it can be. Bolting on long travel suspension helps and increases how fast you can go but will only add more stress to the truck because you are now going faster and hitting things harder. As stated, the factory mounts are mostly designed around noise cancellation of any sound that could be felt in the cab, and designed to meet the bare minimum requirements to hold the drivetrain in place on a flat paved road. This is why soft rubber is used. Its a dampener. Unfortunately it dry rots, cracks and de-laminates quickly. It also flexes heavily. This is fine for a factory truck that lives on the street. Or if you drive slow on flat dirt roads, then you will be fine with stock motor mounts forever.

I make parts for trucks that are used off road. Driven hard, fast, bounced around, jumped, raced, rockcrawling, over-landing in rough terrain, etc. Thinking your OEM mounts will keep your drivetrain held securely while doing that is a recipe for disaster. But theres more to it than just preventing frame and engine bay damage...there is a throttle response/power factor too. So all our motors will torque to the right (passenger side) when we accelerate. This is the rotating mass of the motor attempting to lift itself off the frame from the power it produces. Doing this over and over isn't necessarily bad, if this is occurring on the flat street. The only thing you'll have to worry about is the slow deterioration of the motor mount rubber over time. Just like any part it will eventually wear out. However, doing this over un-even, rugged, tooth rattling unpredictable terrain is a different story. Doing it at high speed is another story. Now you have the drivetrain trying to twist off the chassis, and the whole truck being tossed around, shaken, vibrated and possibly taking impacts that send shock through the vehicle. Any axle wrap and moments of traction loss from the tires leaving the ground is exacerbated by this as well. Basically, you are experiencing a decent degree of parasitic power loss thru your drivetrain as lost energy that isn't making it to the ground. So you are not "making more power" with upgraded drivetrain mounts, but you are losing less power and making more efficient use of the applicable power on hand produced at the flywheel. The weak stock OEM mount failing to hold everything tight and secure, will allow the engine to become a 400 lb slide hammer beating the frame into submission while at speed. The more the drivetrain flexes and rebounds, the more damage is going to occur.

Drivetrain shockload comes from the above factors, and yes as stated the torque convertor and hydraulics in an auto trans buffers some of that shockload where as a manual tranny is gears on gears with no buffer. But they do send more power to the tires...its a trade off. Regardless your rear end ring and pinion have zero buffer either way and take all the abuse all the time.

Polyurethane upgraded motor mounts put zero extra stress on a drivetrain. In fact, holding it tight and stopping all the flex actually helps keep things from breaking, such as stopping excess force that is applied against your pinion bearings from the driveshaft as it sends shockload force thru it from all the drivetrain flex and rebounding while offroad. Also, the driveshaft center support bearing (carrier bearing) will receive much less wear and tear if the driveline is spinning true and flexing all over less. Poly mounts are just all around a positive upgrade.

As far as needing to replace the motor mounts and the tranny mount at the same time...its not necessary to do all 3 at once but obviously wouldn't hurt. Now here is the deal though...you MUST replace the engine mounts with a poly version if you are going to do the tranny with a poly version. You cannot just do the trans and leave the engine mounts stock. what this will do is hold the lightweight aluminum trans tight, while the much heavier motor is flexing all over on those weak rubber pucks. This will cause the trans mount to see alot of twisting and flexing force, and eventually cause the trans housing to crack or rip at the mount points. You must secure the motor for sure - its the heavy end and its the part of the driveline that is moving the most. With a secured engine, and a OE trans mount in good shape, you will not see any problems. Ive never heard of any, in this situation, ever. Race vehicles included.

Are you guys blind yet? lol. I am from typing all this. Hope it clears some things up!

 

suck or blow? if not done properly, both can be worse than good setups either way. What I was told and explained from street cars and dirt track, it's dependent on overall HP and there's sweet spots where both work well and comes down to aero and venting higher pressures under the hood. For our purposes, it's not likely to be worth doing on light trucks.

 

For what its worth, from an off road racing standpoint we always had better luck with the OE mechanical fans. They push more air as you rev the engine up, where as an electric fan runs the same CFM no matter what. The biggest 14" SPAL brand electric fan we tried running racing only pushed the same CFM as a stock tacoma fan pushed at idle. We almost always got the motor too hot to run full kill so we switched back to the mechanical fan. Not worth having to back off the throttle because your engine temp is getting over 230 degrees. The few ponies you saved are now worthless.

 

Absolutely zero chance a Tacoma fan is moving almost 2,000cfm at idle. Zero chance.

 

Fan issues need to be on it's own thread.

 

I don’t know but I had my fan shroud come loose at idle and it got destroyed. It was pretty terrifying and hilarious.

 

Dual SPAL fans here.

 

Dual SPAL’s here on my old mans car. Keeps 900hp nice and cool even in stop and go traffic. Rarely see anything over 205.