The Lair

I’m still on hold waiting for the new mounts. I went with an aftermarket one made with poly bushings. It should lift the engine back up to where it needs to be and also keep it from flopping around. I can also shim up the mounts with some plate steel for a little more clearance if needed.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...abricated-solid-motor-mounts-for-sale.406631/

 

Have to give those a try.

 

I've come to the lair for assistance, I've been following the banter for the last few months and figured I could drop my issues here in hopes of finding answers. I have already read through the forums and threads and had most of my questions answered, just seeking other opinions because I am only one man (small brain)


2007 trd off road, 90,000 miles odo, AT trans, 4.0v6
Short story -
road trip = 3 hours from home , transfer case actuator gets stuck in 4hi , couldn't get anything to disengage. Called YotaMasters in socal they said pull the front drive shaft to get home. Pulled front drive shaft got home , now she's sitting still in "4hi" no front drive shaft and toyota dealer wants $1,200 for a new actuator before labor and all the other costs.

Doing some research looks like swapping the FJ transfer case is the best route with all the trouble I have to go through for just the actuator.
I have local shops saying they can do the swap and are trying to source the case to do it. I just need enough information about this to ensure no one is pulling a blanket over my eyes and taking any shortcuts.

Im tracking:
Fj transfer case for the 4.0 / Automatic w/ the manual 4x4 shift lever and knob if you can get it
Some of the internals have to be switched out to marry up to the tacoma guts (still narrowing down what exactly it is)
Then the debates i've seen over the ADD and going fj solid tube to delete or not / or exactly how to wire it. There seems to be a lot of opinions on this.

Regardless, if any one has anything to add or to correct me on please fire and forget as its greatly appreciated

 

You want a case out of an FJ with an AT. It’ll mate up to your AT with no modifications. The only time the cases need to be opened up and guts swapped is if you had an MT, like I did. So that part of the swap is easy as you just drop your case and install the new one.

Here is the case you want. LKQ is a reputable used parts dealer and I bought mine from them, also through eBay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-4Runner-FJ-Cruiser-Transfer-Case-Assembly-101K-OEM-LKQ-/313378300044






For the add portion, you have a couple of options.

• leave the ADD/tube but leave it always engaged. This is achieved by shifting the truck in 4hi (which you already are) and then unplug the 4wd ecu behind the glovebox. This removes any dash light errors.
  
• Leave the add/tube but wire it up for independent operation. So you still retain the minor benefits of the ADD but are still prone to ADD actuator failure.
  
• Swap over to a FJ tube which is solid/no ADD. Costs about $300 in parts to do this. This is equivalent to leaving the ADD engaged all the time.

I switched to 4hi and unplugged my 4wd ecu, leaving the add always engaged. It’s easy and free. I haven’t noticed any loss in MPG from the front diff/driveshaft spinning all the time.

Hopefully this clears things up.

 

Good mormimg lair! Feeling pretty spry this morming. Got to sleep in my own bed last night and am finally home from the hospital! Still on supplemental oxygen. But at least home!

 

That was everything I needed, thanks a ton

 

I’ve been looking at those for a while. I’ll be interested to know what you think about them once you get everything back together.

 

Everything I’ve read about them is positive. I think your truck is a great recipient of them! Trans mounts too.

 

I like that whoever organized this chose an image that clearly is not even remotely in VA

 

That’s how us Virginians picture the blue ridge mountains.

 

I bet

 

Are you gonna get the reinforcements while you're at it from DMZ?

 

No, I don’t think it’s necessary. I also have the updated frame so I don’t have the fear of the crappy early second gen frame where the engine mounts to and cracks.

 

Didn't know there was a difference. Guess I'd be fine then with the 2.5 gen?

 

Yeah definitely. The guy who makes the mounts says sure, you could gusset the frame but there’s not really a need.

 

Good to know. My eventual plan for the truck is to basically make it nearly 'bulletproof' so boxed frame, reinforced across the board since one day (probably when I'm close to retiring) this will be the dedicated rig that will get mobbed. Either that or I pick up a wrecked one on Copart and go ham on it and just trailer the wrecked one with the nice one. Long term goals.

 

You guys are living your best life and I am just trying not to fall getting out of the shower...

 

Rubber mat homie. For around the house, you oughta get rubber soled socks too. Can't have you falling down without a life alert!

 

Saw your insta post with someone else's truck flexed out on your ramp. Obviously you actually need a bigger ramp for Betty White with her long travel and finely tuned rear suspension… but More! Moar!



Seeing shit like this makes me realize how piddly all the little mods I’ve done to my truck really is. Question is how do I go from I’m looking at buying my first welding machine to building a suped up cantilever suspension for my truck in a hurry?

 

Yeah that was @lenriquez since Betty is still down for the count. I felt naked at the meet today without my truck there, but it was still a good time. I have tossed around the idea of modifying the ramp to make it about 6” higher but it’s more trouble and cost than it’s worth to be honest.

In a hurry? No such thing takes awhile to get good enough to weld for a project like that. Even I would never attempt something that advanced. At most, a basic 3 link setup. You thinking about getting a welder?